Question for those who own a 2006 torker 24" DX; Have any of you changed the tire from the standard Kenda 2.6 to the Gazz 3.0? I thought I read or heard somewhere that, although the 24" DX “Will fit a 24 x 3.0 tire!”, that the Gazz 3.0 will NOT fit. Trying to confirm this one way or the other. I hope it WILL fit as the Gazz seems like the best muni tire on the market; and one of the most expensive as well!
**And will I even notice that much difference/improvement by going up only .4" in width?
UDC says it will not fit a Gazz but will fit the Duro wildlife leopard which is a 24x3.0, it the same tire that comes stock on the KH freeride. It is said to be just as good as the gazz but for significantly less money.
Yes, if you do the type of riding where you have to deal with big rocks and roots and logs and where you need to hop or jump to get over some things.
Consider the difference in going from an XC class tire to a 2.6" DH class tire. It’s about the same magnitude of difference when going from a 2.6" DH class tire to a 3" DH class tire.
The betterness of the 3" Gazz is all relative. I use the 24x3 Gazz but that’s mainly because it’s the tire I started with when I switched to a fat tire (it was one of the few fat tires available), and it’s the tire that I know. I know how it behaves I like how it behaves. I’m sticking with what I know. I also bought a bunch of them back when they were less than $60 so I’ve got about four or more in storage.
I’d likely be happy with the Duro tire if that is what I had.
The general rule of thumb is that the Gazz is better for the more DH and freeride oriented riding and the Duro is better for XC style riding. The Gazz is more square and less maneuverable while the Duro is more rounded and thus more maneuverable. Just rules of thumb and not hard or firm rules. Kris does just fine doing his freeride riding on the Duro.
There is one batch of KH frames out there that I know will not fit a gazz so the gazz is definately bigger than the duro. The duro is pretty good though.
Gazz vs. Duro
Having used both, I’ll say they are both good. Don’t waste your money on a Gazz, when it will likely not fit.
I can’t see the point of replacing the Kenda tyre.
I would say their is no reason for a 3", it’s just heavier, and more sloppy.
Having used the same Kenda tire as you and an IRC Kujo 24x3.0, I can most definitely say there is a different in feel between the two sizes.
In theory, a flat, high profile Gaz should be better on flat surfaces, sand and snow, whereas the rounder profile Duro would be superior where quick, tight turns are required. Both roll and “tractor” about the same, and absorb drops about equally–the Gaz bounces a bit more, and the Duro is not quite as soft a landing. But I’m convinced it’s all about what you get used to. Our group (Santa Barbara Muni Club) is split down the middle–half on a Gaz, the other half on the Duro. If you’re new to Muniing I’d consider going with the Duro because it performs well enough for the world champion to use it and it’s perhaps the best buy (29 bucks) of any unicycle gear. Also, I believe the 24" Gaz will shortly be extinct (though they’ve been saying that for several years now). That much said, it’s not the trails, but street riding (mainly turning), that wears out Muni tires.
JL
If it hasn’t been said here already, the 3.00 Gazz will not fit the 06 Torker DX because it is more flattened out, the Duro will fit because it is rounder.
Going from a 2.6 to a 3" is like going from a 2.3 bmx tire to a 2.5 trials tire. It doesn’t matter how little difference teh acctual tire width is, it matters how much more volume the tire has. I hope to evuantually go the same setup as you- 175mm redline cranks and a 3" duro.
I don’t really agree with this last statement. I rode the first two days of CA MUni Weekend on a 26x3.0", and the last day on a 24x2.6", including some of the same trail we’d done the day before. The 24 was even set up with 150mm cranks instead of 170mm. Despite the fact that it was my first day on that setup, I was able to ride pretty much all the same stuff; loose gravel and scree was harder on the 2.6", but manuvering through rock gardens and tight spots was easier. Since that time, I’ve been riding the most technical terrain we have locally (which gets quite technical) on the 2.6" setup, and I personally perform at about the same level on either tire. I have actually gotten up hills on the 2.6" that I never got up on the 3.0", probably because of the reduced weight (not only of the tire, but of the whole setup).
I have also done quite a bit of XC riding, including riding a 29x2.1" at Moab, and the difference between that setup and the 24x2.6" seems much larger than the difference between the 2.6" and the 3.0". I’m riding the 2.6" at Moab this year, and I don’t expect to have any difficulty doing things I could do before.
http://www.danscomp.com/cgi-bin/hazel.cgi?action=DETAIL&item=451060
are these the cranks you guys are talking about getting for the dx? what size are they?
Nope. You need the Redline Proline cranks. They are only available in 175’s, and they go for about $85. I have them and they work great.