I’ve found numerous coaster brake Huffy Green Machines that are local-ish that I could buy. Give me a couple of weeks and I’ll probably have a coaster brake freewheel unicycle.
I’m already buying a Cyco Cycle tomorrow that I don’t need. I might end up single if I keep this up!
At least with unicycles I can acquire them pretty quietly as they just disappear into the collection; I don’t think the other half has much of an understanding of what unicycles I actually own, especially as I’m always swapping things around.
Actually I try focusing on flowy trails at the moment, training to maintain the speed I get as good as possible.
It’s a awesome feeling if you (almost) only brake in order to control the speed, not the balance. It even starts feeling confident when you push little bumps on the trail and notice the additional drive it causes.
But sometimes I hit some technical trails I can’t resist.
But even those felt flowy today…
Some thoughts on brake pads. I had already talked a bit about them in the Pedals thread.
So, I had issues with organic pads on my last trainings. They were wearing way faster than what I would have liked and they tend to overheat when going for long descents. That means the braking power was fading over time… Leading to an almost impossibility to brake. On a freewheel, that’s pretty bad.
So I switched to metallic pads yesterday and gave them a try on rocky trails. They looked to stay consistent over time for this first training (~ 2 hours). I haven’t gone for any long descent, though. Overall, I keep a good feeling about those. Let’s hope they hold in time! Next ride is planned on Saturday
I totally agree with you. However, I’m a bit afraid of going bigger as I have an RGB frame which is not known to be really sturdy when doing drops with brake fully-engaged. So I’ll stay as small as possible and try to find other solutions before using a 203mm disc
Please don’t tempt me
I’m already buying a Flik Flok hub and one (or two ?) new Schlumpf hub(s). Don’t want to spend more money into unicycling so I wont buy a new frame while the current one works great!
For tandem cross-alps I have gone pretty much into the science of disk brakes. One thing that I have learnt for organic pads is that (on a bike) you should prepare the pads by doing 30 quick stops from around 30 kph (after that you know what you’ve done). Then the pads are adapted to the disk. Afterwards it’s important to overheat the pads. This leads to the resolvents vaporizing which you feel in a loss of braking power (=fading). Keep on braking for a while still before you let the system cool down again. Next time you reach the same temperature the resolvents are gone already, so the surface of the pads is harder and by not vaporizing resolvents fading shouldn’t be so much of an issue anymore, either. Wear should be reduced compared to non-prepared pads. I also read a manual that explained how to do the overheating part with a heat gun but… did I mention that this is a whole science on its own? And for disks themselves: Use heavy disks, they can take up more energy for the same temperature.
In the end we brought the tandem safely over the alps without any fading but we used roads and low passes, for sure less stress than offroad use.
My suspicion with disk brakes on unicycles is that the vast majority of riders never really manage to properly bed them in, so they never function as well as they do on a bike. To even attempt to bed them in you’ve got to have some good brake control.
The normal ride down a hill and apply the brake firmly a number of times works on a bike but not so much on a unicycle.