Hi all,
Has anyone ever noticed flatspots on their tires? If so, what’s your riding style, where were they, and what did you do about it. I myself, have noticed flatspots on all my tires on the part of the tire that touches the ground when I’m in ethier of the 2 “power positions”. The flatspot’s worse where my right foot is back because that’s how I hop. I usually just rotate my tire 90 degrees.
Cheers:D
I’m back… 
When your tire needs rotating, either due to the additional wear and tear of idling (which I can’t do yet), or due to tire-scrubbing, twisty turns (the ungraceful turns, which I do very well) – it’s easier and faster to rotate the cranks. But you can only do it three times. Then you are back where you started.
If you are of the “put the cranks on via the nut and a torque wrench” persuasion, then consider rotating the cranks next time, instead of the tire. But if you hammer the cranks onto the shaft, then you should probably rotate the tire instead.
Dave (uni57)
I wear out my tire at the points where the tire is down. Mostly, this is because I am a new rider. My turns, until recently, have been mostly “scrape” turns. Also, my mounts are less than smooth, often causing hard spins of about 30 degrees.
you are always going to apply the most pressure to the tire when your cranks are in the level position. (the beginnings of the power stroke) therefore the two spots perpendicular to these will always get worn down first.
Riding on pavement alot will wear them down faster
Move your tire 90 degrees, and you will now have more tread to soon wear down flat like the other spots.
Ideally you want to rotate before you wear them down, though, that way you always have the most available tread.
Re: Flatspots on tires?
On Mon, 8 Sep 2003 23:26:25 -0500, uni57
<uni57.th1jw@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote:
>If you are of the “put the cranks on via the nut and a torque wrench”
>persuasion, then consider rotating the cranks next time, instead of the
>tire. But if you hammer the cranks onto the shaft, then you should
>probably rotate the tire instead.
Hmm. I think that hammering the crank (in the right way) before
tightening the nut is safer for the thread than just tightening the
nut. That at least is what the hammering is for, otherwise it would be
silly to do. Hence your statement should read the other way round.
If the crank is moving then it really sounds as if it’s loose. - onewheeldave trying to pinpoint the cause of a clicking crank
I’ve noticed that my Intense 24x3.0 tire wears slower because it’s comp 60. Also, although I’m well past the point of sharp turns for balance’s sake, and my self mounts are quite smooth, I do love to do a riding style where you torque the unicycle 180 degrees every half pedal rotation. That’s caused noticeable wear. Also, my hopping is mean to the tread. Of all of these, though, I think that my riding about 4 miles a day on concrete is the largest factor. Also, I’ve noticed unicycle basketball can alter my tire very quickly. I don’t think idling is very hard on my tire because I’m not turning or sliding, I’m just rolling back and forth. Thanks for the input though. Now I know I’m not the only one.
With profiles, I can do it 48 times (theoretically). My friends with KH 24" unicycles can do it 8 times, since they have 8 splines. I guess Onza’s can be rotated 40 times. On a regular unicycle that has square taper cranks, I would not bother rotating it, as it is usually pretty worn all round so it is not long before the other patches will show canvas. For a tire like a Gazzaloddi or any other expensive replacement it would be worth your time rotating it using whatever means. For cheap regular BMX or slick tires I would just replace it rather than fiddling about moving it.
I’ve used the cheap tires and I’d say that it’s probably easier to replace the tire than to worry about rotating it. The ones I got at El Waldo Mart generally would last me two or three months before deflating. But not that I’ve got a serious tire on my MUni, I’ll probably take the advice and rotate it.
I only rotate my tire because it costs about %15 and I don’ know where to buy them anymore. My muni tire also costs about $50 so I’m not buyin a new one until I truly need to.
Re: Flatspots on tires?
Well you can rotate tires, or your pivot points.
Most people tend to pivot when the pedals are at 12 and 6 o’clock or 6 and
12 o’clock.
But if you pivot using different pedal positions, then you get even tire
wear and much more control wheel control.
“Rowan” <Rowan.tiu50@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote in message
news:Rowan.tiu50@timelimit.unicyclist.com…
>
> uni57 wrote:
> > *When your tire needs rotating…it’s easier and faster to rotate the
> > cranks. But you can only do it three times. Then you are back where
> > you started.
> > *
> With profiles, I can do it 48 times (theoretically). My friends with KH
> 24" unicycles can do it 8 times, since they have 8 splines. I guess
> Onza’s can be rotated 40 times. On a regular unicycle that has square
> taper cranks, I would not bother rotating it, as it is usually pretty
> worn all round so it is not long before the other patches will show
> canvas. For a tire like a Gazzaloddi or any other expensive replacement
> it would be worth your time rotating it using whatever means. For cheap
> regular BMX or slick tires I would just replace it rather than fiddling
> about moving it.
>
>
> –
> Rowan - .·.·´¯`·.·.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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