Ride it more, I had the same issue the more I rode it the less worse it got until I snapped mine
Or maybe your seat is too flat. From what some have said, a slight curve is desired.
I had dead flat and liked it more than just a little angle so I don’t think it’s that.
i dont think simply riding more fixes setup issues. For example unigeezer i think has more saddle hours than our ages put together… I respect my Unicycle elders and hear what everyone is saying.
For health reasons flat saddles benifit. The traditional banana shape may indeed serve its purpose as hill climbing dictates.
Now i see there will be no perfect saddle only ones personal preference weather it be comfort, practical for certain situation, strength or weight.
Now i see why alot of flat saddles are tilted nose up. To climb without less fear and concentration for loosing the saddle. could be wrong there ofcourse. Really need Unigeezer to re visit this for us in regards to seat angle helping this ‘slipping saddle syndrome’ happening.
besides on climbs is there anything a flat saddle needs to be looked at?
I see the latest KH seatpost in a one piece not the 2 piece in my images.
Tilting a flat saddle far enough upward could help to reduce the “backward creeping” but it would also defeat the purpose of the flat saddle’s purported “NNC” benefit. I envision a “ratcheting” saddle adjustment, with a button release/lock mechanism close to the saddle, that would allow the nose to ratchet up–on the fly–for steep climbing, and back down for normal riding. It could have a decent range of available “clicks” to allow for fine tuning of saddle angle. 
What if we had a saddle that had a hinge in the middle, that could be tightened and loosened to allow upward or downward movement of the nose of the saddle. Just loosen a bolt and raise the nose, then tighten it to keep it in place. Likewise for lowering the nose.
The way KH seatpost top plates usually fail is by cracking across where the cylindrical nut goes through the plate. Scott Wilton reported breaking one by crashing on a unicycle with a T-Bar. Both myself and Muniing Sam have had one each crack when used with a Thomson seatpost (yes they mate up very well with Thomson posts - almost as if they’ve been designed to go together!). With this setup you’ve got to use the orginal Thomson bolts and cylindrical nuts. However the Thomson nuts are a smaller diameter to the KH ones, so Sam and I wonder whether this puts additional stress on the top plate. Having said this, mine lasted for years before it finally broke.
A pivotal style post could work well, though as you say, getting a post long enough could be tricky and they also have less fine control of seat angle, due to the serrations as opposed to a curved surface as found on the KH Adjustable post.
I wouldn’t recommend a rail setup, as these have been tried on unicycles already - the trouble with these is that the welds holding the rails to the plate (or in your case, the seat base) tend to break or the rails themselves bend over time.
Adjustable tilt saddles sound like a concept to be explored.
thanks tony for descriptive details on the failures with seat post mounts.
If these adjustable saddle mounts are a weakness which becomes an common issue i would easily be satisfied to weld a Kh fixed post on at my angle of desire. No nut containing sections to crack with those.
I can not see a way to make this area stronger, pivit mounts would be nice but hard to make or fabricate. fixed post hasnt been mentioned. rails are out by the sounds. And the current adjustable post mount has its weak point. I can understand when the leverage of a touring bar hitting the dirt transfers the uni’s weight through to the highest tightest mechanical joint of the whole Unicycle.
With saddle foams is stiffer better? I like the Slim. Im looking for some dense close cell foam in the next few days like those mats that connect together.
Could high density foam with the center channel cut away act the same as the idea of the relief channel made into the saddle.
Current kh saddle foam basically flattens in and the channel is not as practical as we like. Will firmer foam attend to this. It would make the aluminum saddle easier and cheaper to be made without a channel. Then i would just need to change the saddle mounting area. Sorry if i am not being clear. I will put pics up asap to explain and for critiquing
nah- avoid the rail post. Been done and they are not great. I have been using my own handle bar design for a few years now that does away with the front bumper completely. I feel it is a superior option than the front plastic handle for a number of reasons.
- You can attach the brake lever to one of the handle arms directly.
- The design allows for infinite hand positions
- The off center hand position means your shoulders stay straight when you are using the handle (meaning your body stays more centered and you have to compensate less with your balance because of it.) You can probably find some pictures of it in other threads- I am overseas and don’t have access to my pics but you should see some pictures on my blog- The design has since been changed to attach directly to the front of the CF base instead of using the rail adapter brake tube. If you have access to 22.2mm alu tubing you could make up one of them pretty easily.
Mark
i havent seen a handel i would use for free ride and trials unless this is the one
I use mine for all my riding. Using this set up I came 5th in the world in the DH at the last unicon, 2nd in the world with the Hill climb, and 3rd in the world with the XC. I can tell you it is a versatile handlebar. I also used it for the slopestyle event (which had northshore style structures on a big grassy slope) which i will admit was a little tougher- that was mainly due to the extra weight of the schlumpf hub in the wheel and not the handle. Because you can wrap all but your braking finger around the handle you get a much better grip over the unicycle than you would with the standard pull up only plastic handle.
Mark
any pictures, im curious
As Mark noted, people need to do away with the plastic handles in front. I also believe we (unicyclists) need to move away from having the handles mounted on the seat; it is just a poor design, and requires an overly strong seat base, which is totally unnecessary. Instead, the handle should come off the frame in some way. This allows someone to have a much lighter seat, as it doesn’t have to deal with any of the typical forces unicyclists apply to it.
Plus, having a handle out front that is larger than the standard plastic piece allows one to have both hands on it at the same time, and apply alternating forces.
I ride with these handles on my geared KH24, geared KH26, custom V36, and a KH36. Pictures and details are all on my projects section of my blog.
corbin
I agree with Corbin, we are having to overdesign the seats to support bigger/longer grab handles. I have been riding with handles of my own design for a while now, they work very well, though I do get some seat flex and I have broken handles, mounts, and a KH seat post base.
I played around with some frame/post grab handle mounts, but they were heavy, complicated, and had their own flex issues. An improved frame design would answer the question, but that would cost more, weigh more, and would require a lot more effort to configure.
For most people, the nylon grab handle works and it’s inexpensive, we only started having problems when we added bigger bars to the existing seats.
The KH seats I have flattened, in conjunction with a KH seat stiffener, are nearly as stiff as the NNC seat base. In all honestly, even with the minor issues I have with flex and breakage, my handles and seats work well enough that I see no reason to change, though a custom frame may be in the works…
As for flat seats “slipping out” or causing probelms while riding, I call bullpuckies, seat shape is a matter of comfort, the handle and pedals are what determine stability just like on a bike. Now if you want a completely U shaped seat for working hands free such as in a circus/performance setting, well then sure, but for climbing and such, nah, it is more restrictive than is necessary.
Yes, this is an impotent issue.
Tension?
Has anyone tried something like a strand of Dyneema between the handle and the crown?
agreed, any muni or touring bar array is best mounted from the seat post rather than saddle frame.
any unforgiving forces then are to the center of the uni. I see that being alot nicer for all strength and weight concerns up top
Strength and weight must meet somewhere. Mounting a touring/muni bar from the post sounds great once again. I would need to make it stronger though due to the extra bend and 200 or 300mm to reach the post. Less strong? more weight? Seat mounted is still strong and less material. specially strong on stronger saddles hence the occasional seatpost mount issues
Back to Muni setups. If i am breaking gear due to having my KH bar hanging off the front handle (ok not ideal but its the norm) i would need to be either going very fast down a track or totally messy and out of control to break anything in a UPD. Or be very unlucky in another instance.
Under normal safe Muni within our limits or just beyond is KH hardware really not as strong as it appears? is that what is being portrayed here.
Isnt it plenty strong enough? Used within unicycling boundaries and laws of physics and gravity and all that why are we breaking gear and looking for better designs that are already tried and tested by the worlds best in the sport for over 20 years.
I just wanted to make up a almost ideal aluminium saddle frame good for muni or road (bit weighty for road, go carbon). like mentioned previously if anyone can break any of my aluminum saddle frames on my KH29 Guni under fair, reasonable conditions on normal muni riding without doing crazy speeds out of control or heading down tracks beyond ones personal limitations and experience. Then its yours
Any response re high density foam on the saddle?
would this do away with requiring a saddle frame channel cut out along its center. Also give support and comfort?
surely someone if riding on custom foam!
@Alice, I just looked up Dyneema. Looks like interesting stuff. What, exactly, are you envisioning?
I’m envisioning
exerting some of the handle-pulling force linearly on the crown rather than as torque on the post.