Fixing a broken Torker LX

Is it worth it trying to replace a bent axle on the Torker LX? I am still at a loss about how the axle got bent considering I can’t even freemount yet.

It looks like I have several options:

  1. Get a cheap used CX and replace the nicer (but bent) LX wheel with the CX one. A slightly used CX goes for about $40 on Craigslist.
  2. Get a replacement LX hub from UDC (Suzue, $23) and try to rebuild the wheel.
  3. Get the CX hub/spokes/rim wheelset from Amazon ($24.12), and reuse the cranks/pedals/tire from the LX.
  4. Throw away the LX and get a Nimbus Muni 26" I was drooling over in the last couple of days.

I am tempted to go with (1) because it’s the least amount of work :slight_smile:

Are there any other options?

Thanks,
Igor

I’d go with 4. I bought a Nimbus 24" MUni last week, it rides great on the downhill even without brakes. Feels much safer when spinning out on the steep stuff compared to my 29". :astonished:

A 26" will go a lot faster than your LX (assuming it is a 20") you will be able to go further and will go a lot better on the Muni trails. The nimbus will also last you a lot longer than a learner that you have already bent the axle on.

Get the Nimbus and keep the LX for spares or repair.

From what I’ve gathered on the forums the hub on the lx is the weakest link. If you want to rebuild your wheel I would recommend the UDC wide hub rather than the Suzue. It’s only a little more expensive, and from what I understand a marked improvement in strength.

Building the wheel should be straight forward. I have seen LX’s with this combo in the past, but I’m not sure if you need to do anything with the frame spacing to fit the hub.

You might call Josh at UDC and see what he says. He has given me good advice in the past.

Check with wherever you bought the LX, sometimes Torker will replace parts that break or otherwise become unusable.

I bought the LX on Ebay. I don’t think there is any warranty on it.

I have a suspicion that the rim is also bent because there is a big bulge on the tire in the spot when the wheel touches the ground when the cranks are as parallel to the ground as they can be (both cranks face a bit downward). I got a replacement tire and it’s got the same bulge, this is why I think it’s the rim. Not sure if it’s going to be fixed by a new hub.

Could you post some pictures? It would really help to see what you are talking about. I’m not sure I understand what you are saying about a “bulge in the tire.” It’s possible that you have a flat spot in your rim which would make the tire look a little funny, but not generally “bulge.” Flat spots can be worked out, and the wheel can be brought up to tension fairly easily. At this point we’re talking more serious wheel work though, and it would be more cost effective to either buy a new wheel from Torker if it’s available, or to get a new stronger uni.

(1) It sounds like your wheel needs trued, which would be an issue with spoke tension, not a bad rim. You can take it into a bike shop and get this fixed for 10 bucks if this is the case.
(2) The hub on my LX has been in a state similar to your for some time (cranks can’t get exactly parallel). I’ve ridden it for quote a while without any further complications, and I don’t even notice that the cranks are angled while I’m riding. You might just want to “ride it out” so to speak, and see how many miles you can get out of that damaged hub.

I continue learning to ride on it and I don’t really notice that the cranks are not aligned when I am riding. I am just wondering if I could learn things like freemounting or left turns faster if the cranks were straight… :o

Igor: I didn’t realize you are right up the road from me in Bellevue! If you are interested in joining a club it will help tremendously in learning skills. PPUT starts up again in September with skill levels from non-existent to USA Level 9. Let me know and I’ll shoot you the details.