It’s also quite possible we are describing the same thing, but just interpret what is happening differently.
-corbin
I found this on my schlumpf when I first started. I think you have to give it a good solid push in with your foot. If you do the ankle rubbing thing, maybe make sure to push your foot in as it goes across the button.
I’ve been shifting with my ankle not my heel recently and it seems that once you have it down, it shifts very quickly every time (so far anyway).
To downshift, at least on mine, there is a foot position (left foot forwards at about 9 o’clock), where it seems to almost always click in exactly with no wobble, so I slow down and kick it to downshift.
Joe
I have fitted my GB4 handle for a brake lever. I cut and rewelded the small tubing (intended for the speed-o-meter) in line with the “center tubing” of the handle. I’ll post a pic of that later.
If you have access to some steel and a welder, I recommand welding the 22.2mm tubing directly on the GB4 handle like I did, so there won’t be any play between the handle and the brake lever. And the tip of the handle touch the ground first this way.
Yeah if you can post a picture that would be great. Thanks. 
Here are some pictures. I made the setup 4 years ago, and never painted it after my modification. So no, there’s no orange paint, it’s ugly surface rust. I guess winter commuting requires more maintenance than I offer.
So basicaly, I just used the original cyclometer-mount material.
The brake is center lined so I can use one hand or the other.
We don’t see very well, but I took the small bent bar and cut two 1" long parts in it to hold the 22.2mm tube. The tube is welded directly on the tube connecting to the base plate. So the brake lever tube is hold on three points.
nice.
I can count at least 6 up and down shifts each in my head where I need to shift in the 15-20 mile loop I’ve ridden a couple times this week. Steep downhill, relatively flat, steep uphill, not so steep uphill, technical offroad, fire road, etc. You all need to find some more varying terrain. 
I practiced the first night in a parking lot, and it seemed a lot easier than when I’m in the moment.
Shifting has been getting better. I’m finding upshifting the easiest. I hit almost all of my upshifts today on the first try using the move/roll my ankle inward while pedaling method. Downshifting does seem to take a bit more force, but not much. I’ve had the most success with whacking the button with my ankle when shifting down–I’m usually almost stopped at that point anyway.
Has anyone encountered lots of wind while geared up? It got pretty gusty today, and pushing the big gear was pretty challenging even on the relatively flat pavement. I wonder how windy Nova Scotia is, being surrounded by water and all.
Wind can be challenging. In Moab, it was even more challenging on Mike’s v54 than it was on the Schlumpf 29er; it might be true that the Schlumpf 29er is also better than a Schlumpf 36er in wind, but I’m not sure.
I think the fact that there’s some slop in the drivetrain makes wind more difficult to deal with; the micro-adjustments that you normally make to correct for balance in wind just don’t do much on the geared unis.
I am upshifting with relatively good success while coming almost to a stop; I’ve rarely been successful doing it at speed. Downshifting is harder, especially in situations where it’s most important (such as when I’m losing momentum going up a hill).
I find that downshifting going up a hill, you need to get into a stillstand pedals flat position and kick it and just deal with the pedals spinning slightly.
I upshift while riding slowly now. I used to pretty much come to a stop to do it, which was okay with 150 cranks, but not so good on the 125s, I find that it shifts most solidly at about 4 mph or so, when I’ve got a teeny bit of speed but not much - I think that the little bit of momentum helps the wheel get past the gear change bit and click in very quickly.
One random thing, I find it much harder to shift with a T7 handle, also it is a fair bit easier to shift with my new lightweight 2" road tyre than with the 2.3" big apple.
Joe
Your ride sounds fantastic. Long ride to the top of a mountain, and back - I love it!
NS will most likely be windy. Fortunately for guni riders, and conversely, unfortunately for fixie riders (read: me), the wind prevails in the direction we’re riding, SW to NE.
I think what works for one person may not work for others
I do find it easier to shift at slower speeds – it is basically easier to predict when you should move your ankle towards the button.
But, to really be efficient at shifting and riding fast, I find it essential to be able to shift at 10 mph – both up and downshift. When I hit about 10-11 MPH I tend to upshift – sometimes I loose a few mph (down to 8) if I miss it a few times. For downshifting, I previously was waiting till I got down to about 5 mph, but I find it better if I start to downshift at 10mph (which is the speed I prefer to keep when going up moderate hills). Each miss causes you to slow down quite a bit and cover a lot of distance when in high gear.
That’s just my preference. I haven’t ridden at all this week! I really need to get on the guni some more…
-corbin
Yeah, but it seems to be easier to switch from high cadence low gear to low cadence high gear than vice versa. So, I think I prefer to shift up at a higher speed than shifting down.
Really, what do you think makes the shifting easier on the smaller tire?
The weight of the tyre + tube is about 33% lower (995+250=1245g vs. 690+140=830g), so it is much easier to keep the wheel spinning in high gear when you shift, it really feels very nice to shift.
Joe
I fully agree!
i still have trouble downshifting.
-corbin