First Commuter

I’m hopefully looking to buy my first commuter sometime in the next month or so. Trying to decide between a Coker (probably the Big One) and a Nimbus Nightrider. I was looking for comments/opinions comparing the two or just personal experiences with one of these unicycles.

At this time, I am looking at the Big One, primarily because of price and weight. I was not planning on putting on a brake, but I would like to have that option. I see they’re having a delay because of a miscommunication with frame manufacturer (missing brake bosses).

I am also looking for crank length the recommendations. I’m seeing 125/127 verses 150/152. I rode a single-speed bike quite a bit mountain biking the past two years, so I’ve acquired some decent leg strength, if that makes a difference in a crank length suggestion.

Whichever uni I go with, I do plan on putting it through a lot of riding this year. I’ve been having a lot of issues with everything from my shoulders all the way to my hands over the past year and a half, so my biking will probably be a lot less and my unicycling will increase quite a bit. My goal this year is to do a few 60+ mile road rides with it.

Any guidance is appreciated.

Go with the new Nimbus for sure. Even though I have not tried the new coker, I can’t imagine it being as good as the new wheel set up the Nimbuses have. The cost difference can’t be that much, and I am pretty sure the rotational weight is less on the Nimbus 36…which is all for the better. Rotational weight is what you should be concerned with…not over all weight so much.

As far as crank lengths go. Most people recommend to learn with 150s…but it depends on your past riding experience. I switched very quickly to the 125s and I would say that they are a very good over-all crank length. Get yourself two pairs of cranks…125s and 150s…cranks are cheap and if you are already paying for shipping from go ahead and get another set of cranks. The best cranks for 36ers from my experience has been the light weight qu-ax ones. They have very little q-factor and are light but strong. Riding 60 miles on a coker with 150mm cranks sounds painful to me, the smaller cranks make your average speed increase and makes cruising feel a lot more comfortable.

If you already know how to ride, which I’m assuming you do, considering you’re looking at 36ers, just get the 125/127 cranks; 150s may be easier to “learn” on, but if you are comfortable on other unicycles, it’ll take you 20 minutes tops to be able to get up and ride around on your new 36er with 125 cranks. I don’t think 20 minutes is worth a whole 'nother set of cranks :). If you want to do MUni on your commuter, though, (which is fun on a 36!) then grab some 150 cranks, too, and slap 'em on for the dirt! Never can hurt to have an extra pair of cranks. I’d say, however, that if you’re never going to go offroad with it, 150s are entirely unnecessary, even for what little learning you might require to feel at home on your sweet new unicycle. :slight_smile:

Your milage may very

I had only been riding a few months when I got a steel radial 360, with 150’s. I read a lot about how everyone loved 125’s ,so I got a set. Wow!, for me it was a lot scarier, and harder to control. The wheel felt rubberier, the seat is an inch higher, slowing down is harder. I rode with it like that for a month or so. It doers pedal smoother. It was a fun enough mod for 10 $, but I’m glad I learned on 150’s.

Then I put on alum sugino’s 140’s. These are much better cranks then the cheap steel ones, well worth the extra few $. Way lighter, and they look very strong and well crafted.

I haven’t read enough about the new uni’s to form an opinion, I expect we will get some reviews soon. The alum Coker does seem very nice for the price.

Because cranks are cheap and easy to change, I would buy 150’s again to start with. You will want some someday anyway, if you ride in a hilly place.

Brakes are pretty useless except for going down hills. If you don’t live in the right place, you will never use them.


Those are ok, but many prefer cranks with zero Q factor, and these are awesome! (114mm are amazing!)

The Q factor thing

I think the Sugino’s have about 10 mm a side. This means that your pedals will be about an inch wider apart from each other, then say, with the zero Q Q-ax cranks that Terry likes.

I’m fatter then Terry and have a modded air seat with a pad taped to it, so it’s wider then most seats. So the pedals fall naturally right where I want them, with the more offset Sugino’s. Other riders may not like them because of this extra width at the pedals. You kinda have to try them to find what you like as far as Q factor goes. I have read many positive comments about the Q ax cranks. The sugino’s are cheaper, but only by a few bucks. And I don’t know where to get them shorter then 127.

Trying different crank lengths is fun, even if you don’t like it as a permanent change. I’m temped to buy a set of 110’s now, just to check them out. Everything seems harder with short cranks, except cruising. I am getting pretty good with idling and riding backwards on my small wheels, but not the 36 yet. When I get that, I might really want to try shorter ones. Until then, the control I lose going with shorter cranks is a lot.

Yep I love rocking the Qu-Ax Al cranks too, still on the 125s, haven’t had to touch them in over a year. I have the ISIS verions on hy hockey cycle and they’re even better.