Hi, I’m still not sure if I want to sell it but I’m leaning on the selling side a little bit more than keeping it. I had trouble with my other old Ti hub and yesterday I thought I had twist this one too, unfortunatly it’s only my cranks so I may want to sell it before something goes wrong with it. I think just I need the strongest hub/cranks for my unicycle instead of light a light crankset.
Anyway, I’ve been riding it for a week now, so nothing too big has been done on it, only 2 big drop gap. I used it for Trials. It stills looks new, as I said I only used it a week so it’s not even dirty.
I’m asking $300 CAN OBO, I might also consider a trade (with money) for a 2010 KH Cr-Mo hub if anyone wants to upgrade his uni. Pictures coming soon…
That’s not going to instill any potential buyers with much confidence in the hub. I certainly wouldn’t want to spend $300 on a hub if the person who I’m buying it from is getting rid of it because they think something it going to go wrong with it.
I think his point is that he is probably a bit harder on the hub than a Ti spindle can handle. It would be fine for a lightweight road build, or even an XC MUni, but for big stuff the Ti spindle is probably not the best fit.
Yeah, that’s what I mean, I though it was twisted yesterday so I just want to be sure it wont twist for real. With a Cr-Mo hub I wont be scared of twisting it anymore. As I said, I think I need the strongest hub and cranks possible. I’m sure if it’s on a road machine or an extra light XC uni it will be good.
Yes it is. And I thought maybe if you use it for street if you grind and you rub the spokes too much maybe it will affect them… after a long time though…
I quite like the idea of pulling bearings off an Exceed hub because I have no use for 42mm bearings, plus if I ever got a Ti hub I wouldn’t ruin it by running flange-bending plain gauge spokes. Double butted ‘ftw’. Small flanges are nice… light, sturdy, and minimalist. Less to bash about if you do trials or street too. I’ve seen a few mullered KH flanges and Koxx flanges from sidehop/grind damage because the flanges are so big.
Small flange+ DB spokes= less maintenance than big flange+ plain gauge.
Never had an ISIS hub before, but I’m curious: Is it possible at all to pull the bearings off by hand? With Profile hubs the bearings slide on and off as if they were just spacers.
Saddly no, it’s possible with the Koxx-one hubs because their bearings are different. If I remember correctly, there’s a tool that is used on cars so you can pull these bearings off. Maybe someone on the forums know how to take them off without using the bearing puller tool. I never took any of my bearings off of one of my unis.