Bought my pair from tartybikes a few weeks ago. Didn’t go anything that big to flat. Anything over 6ft had a nice tranny.
Pros: Platform felt amazing, pins were durable (but loosened, so make sure you keep them tight.), light as heck!
Cons: Broken on Canada day . Strangely, it was my forward foot pedal that broke. I don’t think that the spindle is large enough to be safe (when made out of Ti). I will use the cromoly ones now. I would not suggest these to any street, muni or trials rider as there is a lot that can go wrong when your pedal breaks. I got off easy, imagine it happening off a big drop. You could sprain your ankle, break your foot or leg… gives me the shivers. Pedals aren’t the place to have lightweight parts.
I think there are just some things Ti are not optimal for… In think case we see it’s pedal spindles, but also, bolts(other various hardware), cranks, hubs, and seat posts are all parts prone to breaking from the type of stress they receive and clearly are not worth the price to weight savings ratio.
The grade of and the quality of the Ti used matters too. But yes, it is generally known in the cycle world that for spindles whether they be on hub axles, bottom bracket axles, or pedal spindles, - they are not as stiff or ‘strong’ as steel/crmo equivalents.
As for almost every cycle product retailed you can only pick 2 out of 3: Strong, Light, Cheap.
The nature of ti (again dependent on which grade/quality) is different for things like frames and forks however.
I rode trials on the SLs. It was abusive. These pedals would be fine for XC riding.
I have heard of others breaking the SLs.
Ti is not as good as I once thought. I have also broken two KH ti08 hubs (and twisted the spindles) and now I twisted the spindle of the '10 version. That’s three hubs in 8 months. I will probably go back to steel.
Note, I am a hard rider with 170mm cranks. For the majority of others, they should be fine.
I personally feel hub/crank/pedal-ax should all be the same material. And I feel most problems are cause by wrong combinations:
heat-treated CrMo hub, non-heat-treaded cranks, heat-treated CrMo pedal-ax. Or any use of alu cranks.
But I’m a freestyle rider who doesn’t need to participate in pushing the edges between weight and strength.
I’m aware that one Ti isn’t the other, but knowing the characteristics of CrMo, I think I’d better stick with steal also.
Funny, I’m also on ‘too long’ cranks for my type of riding, according the general opinion.
Do you prefer the longer cranks for better control, or for more force?
I ride trials on a 24" with 170mm bike cranks (middleburns). The ratio of crank length to wheel is comparable to a 19" with tensiles (140mm). Any less and rail gaps and ups would become very sketchy.
I’m also pretty old school. I like my cranks long for several reasons: rail gap control and torque down steep slopes and down landings from drops. I rode 165mm moments for a while before I bought my middleburns and I didn’t notice any difference really. I also like that it is the same size cranks that I have on my road bike and xc bike. It just feels right.
The reviews of their cranks are pretty clear about strength, but most of all I love the shape, so I recently asked them if they want to make them in 90/100/110/125 mm, but did not get a response (yet).
And as they make tandem parts, I know they can make R unicycle cranks to.