Are dual hole cranks for indecisive people? Do users really change pedals or cranks that often, or during rides? Does it make sense to change a unicycle from muni to road speed machine, or just have a unicycle for each Genre? Do you have dual hole cranks, and have you changed the pedal position in a while? Would your next cranks have dual holes? Would dual holes seem like an upgrade on aftermarket cranks? 125/150s for 29-36", 137/165 for Muni? Did you get dual hole cranks to avoid changing cranks often? Are dual hole cranks a big deal? Who really uses them… most? I know why we use different crank lengths, but why the option on the same crank when you still have to change the pedals?
- Do users really change pedals or cranks that often, or during rides?
I’ve hardly changed them much at all yet, at the moment im recovering from injuries so havn’t been riding much, I am still getting used to the different crank lengths.
So far the times that I have changed my pedals have been for the muni events at unicon XV and to try out the crank lenghts when I first got them.
- Does it make sense to change a unicycle from muni to road speed machine, or just have a unicycle for each Genre?
It depends on how much you are willing to spend/ want to change pedal positions and mybe tyres. I like the idea of having a unicycle for different purposes, but I hate changing tyres but im not very experienced with that.
-Do you have dual hole cranks, and have you changed the pedal position in a while?
Yes, not since unicon XV.
- Would your next cranks have dual holes?
Im not shure, if I was going to get 150 moments then I would just get 150/125 dual hole cranks. But my next cranks might be lighter ones.
- Did you get dual hole cranks to avoid changing cranks often?
No, I got them becuase I wanted to try out 165’s and 137’s, so it was much cheaper that way.
- Who really uses them… most?
I guess people how have a dual perpous unicycle.
- I know why we use different crank lengths, but why the option on the same crank when you still have to change the pedals?
Because its much cheaper to buy dual hole cranks then it is to buy the same crank lengths in single hole.
I think it’s a west USA-Canada idea
In the south, it’s flat. In the east it may be very up and down, or flat, in short distances. And in the middle USA, it’s all flat.
But somewhere in big sky country, there is a rider who will ride 5 miles of flat, move the pedals, and ride up a mountain. If you do a big mile day, and only have to move your pedals once, those 2 holed cranks could be looking mighty good. 
Are dual hole cranks for indecisive people?
Yes and no, maybe, umm let me get back to you on that one…
Do users really change pedals or cranks that often, or during rides?
Generally I don’t change cranks/pedal holes during rides but I have switched to the short hole to ride the road home bailing out of a ride and have also swapped cranks on my 36 to longer ones when I got tired/sore and just needed to limp home. Just moving the pedals was much nicer than having to do a full crank swap on the trail. (and I didn’t have to carry the spair set of cranks “just in case”
Does it make sense to change a unicycle from muni to road speed machine, or just have a unicycle for each Genre?
If I am going on a road ride I would have my unicycle set up for the road, If I was going on a MU ride I would have my uni setup for the trail. But if I was doing a MU ride where there was a option fairly far in to take the road back instead of keep on the trail having dual hole cranks is really nice. Also they would really come in handy if you were to ride a road to your favorite MU spot etc.
Do you have dual hole cranks, and have you changed the pedal position in a while? Would your next cranks have dual holes?
I have only used them on 5 rides so far and have changed positions part way through the ride twice.
Would dual holes seem like an upgrade on aftermarket cranks?
Only if they are built strong enough have holes drilled in them without worrying about making them weak.
125/150s for 29-36", 137/165 for Muni?
These sizes are already offered. I have suggested 137/114 for road and someone pointed out that it would also be great for trials riders who want a bit more speed getting to their riding spot or doing more freestyleish stuff with their trials uni.
Did you get dual hole cranks to avoid changing cranks often?
Sort of the opposite. I got them to let me be able to change my “cranks” on the trail if there was a massive change in terrain without having to carry a spare set of cranks and a puller in my backpack. It was for more frequent crank length changes more than avoiding changing the actual crank.
Are dual hole cranks a big deal?
For some people. it seems most people how use them just leave them on one size though.
Who really uses them… most?Owners of KH29s because they come with those unis.
but the people who use the dual hole feature the most are probably people who go on long mixed rides or like to experiment with their equipment. I fit in both categories.
I know why we use different crank lengths, but why the option on the same crank when you still have to change the pedals?Changing pedals is a whole lot faster than changing cranks.
Are you planning on making dual hole SINZ cranks?
If I had a KH 29" I would change the cranks very often for Muni and road rides. I’d also change the size for Muni and XC maybe. I certainly would like to be able to use just the smaller size crank, but sometimes you just need more torque.
There would be a 90 day a lead time and a seemingly reasonable upcharge per set for Sinz to manufacture dual holes, but we would need to order a boat load… and we’re not ready for that yet. We may pay more to a machinist, but they have to set up for bulk and their upcharge is quite a bit more but not as much as an initial investment with sinz… and then there’s the warranty, which would probably be handed to us in either event.
We need to figure out if dual hole is a good idea, or just offer the huge variety of sinz crank sizes. I don’t want folks pulling cranks (and their brakes off in the middle of rides though.) how important are dual holes is the big question. maybe we offer them later.
I like my 125/150s on my 24" MUni. 125 is good for fast road riding and 150 is good for MUni.
Also, I am indecisive. Sometimes when I’m going for a mess about I’ll randomly pick between the two different lengths. I reckon there’ll always be a big market for multi-hole cranks!
I have 125/150 on my 24" MUni. I’ve changed cranks 7 times in the week or so I have had it. They are great for me, since I think I’m going to ride it to my MUnispots more than getting my parents to drive me or taking bus. 125mm to and from the rides, and 150mm in the actual rides. I also like the extra challenge I get on the easier parts in the 125mm hole.
My next cranks for MUni would definitely be dualhole again, because of what I’ve written above. I don’t know which cranks are good for 29"-36" riding, but 125/150 are definitely also great for MUni. I feel like I can tackle every obstacle in the world when I’m in the 150mm hole, but I might have wanted 137/165 cranks to get better braking, if I didn’t have my Magura brake.
This was just my opinions as a new dualhole cranker.
I have duals on my 24" 3.0 Muni (137/165) and my 36-er (125/150). Initially, it was because I was trying to figure out what length I needed. Now, I am keeping them for a few reasons:
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I have 125 / 150’s on my KH 36. The main draw for me was the fact that I could learn to ride the 36er with more control and confidence using the 150’s.
I have since advanced to the 125’s but revert to the 150’s if I’ve not used the uni for a while and just need to get that feeling of confidence back again.
Word. I’ve also got a KH36 with 125/150 dual hole Moments.
The 150 setting allows me to get really out of shape and still ride my unicycle. After a few weeks of regular riding I switch back to the 125s so I can scare bicyclists.
I have 150/125s on my KH29 & KH36, and my son has 137/165s on his Nimbus 26er muni. My son just keeps his in the 137 position all the time, but I swap around my pedals a lot depending on the terrain I’m riding. I swap mid-ride at times, too, but usually I’ll keep things the same for the duration of a ride.
I think the only time they’d be a disadvantage is for people who are exceptionally heavy or who ride very technical terrain with not so much finesse. I’m heavy enough (190 lbs or so), but usually leave the really technical riding to the KH24 because I have no finesse to my riding. :o
I have 125/150 on my KH36. 125 for cruising on the bike path and 150 for muni and foolin’ around. I also have 125/150 on my KH29, but they stay in the 150 position all the time, because I really only use it for muni.
I live in a valley, near hills/mountains. I like having the dual holes for my 36, 29, and 26. I don’t swap them THAT often but I appreciate the variety depending on the ride. I have single 150s for my 24 since I drive to where I will ride.
as a lot of people have said already, they’re great for the 36er, you can use the 125s for short rides or rides that don’t have a lot of elevation changes, and if you want something that can tackle any obstacle you throw at it (or want to do muni) you can put them on 150s.
They’re great for learning, so you don’t have to hassle with changing cranks soon after you buy one.
overall, they don’t hurt anything, and they give you another option if you ever want it. They’re really not that much more, so why not? : ) even if you don’t use the other size that much.
if you weren’t learning what size cranks you need, but because the cranks are part of your disk braking system that you don’t want to remove, then would dual holes seem important on varied terrain for your 36er? If dual holes were offered, should there be more than 125/150 be made available or will that cover 90% of those that would want such a system?
