drilling out a Suzue hub?

This question is for the same rider I mentioned in the ‘cutting new threads on a hub’ I don’t know if he got around to getting it fixed yet, but this rider, as luck would have it, has a machine shop at school. we are now not talking about his cheap-o hub, but the Suzue that he ruined in less than a week.

He brought it in to have cranks put on, as he bent the stock steel ones pretty much immediately.

I have no idea what transpired in the time between then and I saw him next, but the end of the spindle with the last of the threads has been chipped, or broken off.

He is now ready to get a new one, but seeing as this hub is crap now anyways, he is planning on taking it to the machine shop to drill in a hole to replace the retaining nut with a retaining bolt.

Any advice for this endeavour?

It also leads me to ask…is there a reason why unicycles use retaining nuts, where bikes all use retaining bolts?

Re: drilling out a Suzue hub?

I’ve wondered the same thing. See this thread hub issue (no nuts)

If we want internal threads the best option is the Qu-Ax hubs that Roger Davies mentioned in the thread. When is Unicycle.com going to have them here in the U.S.?

The metal used in the Suzue hub is too hardened to machine. Again see this thread hub issue (no nuts)

I guess nuts are used on unicycle axle instead of bolts, is because a hole drilled into the axle for the bolt will weaken the axle strength tremendously. The hollow out axles near the ends will tend to snap easily due to frequent hops, jumps and whatever, thus nuts are used so as to maintain the strength of the axle.

For bicycles, the axle where cranks are attached, is not subjected to much stress, because most of the forces are being concentrated at the wheel axis, so thats why axis at the bicycle wheels are attached to the frame using nuts instead of bolts as well.

Hope my explaination here is correct…

And apologies for my poor language… :slight_smile:

I agree with Peculiar. I have a suzue hub on my Pashley and a cheap crap import hub on my Coker, and I the crap hub is the one drilled for bolts. I bet this weakens the hub. I wouldn’t waste time playing with the thing, solve this problem the old fashioned way, throw someone else’s money at it. carjug

The metal in the central portion of the hub spindle (axle) is not important to the strength of the hub. The majority of the forces on a hub are focused on the outside perimeter of the spindle. The center of the spindle (axle) is just “there” and not contributing much in terms of strength. I’d have to start talking like an engineer to explain why, but that’s the way the forces are. Hollowing it out doesn’t affect it much. And besides, you’re filling that hollow area with a solid bolt.

The strength of standard hubs is most determined by the steel used, the machining processes, the hardening process, the engineering design (are there stress risers?), the quality of the machining, etc., etc., etc., … There are lots of variables. You cannot compare a Suzue hub to an import hub on a Coker and draw any conclusions about whether or not the one drilled for a bolt is stronger or weaker than the other.

I’m eager for the internally threaded hubs (the hubs with a bolt). They have the potential to be better than current standard cotterless hubs. It will depend on the design, engineering, machining, material, etc., etc., etc., … But I’m hopeful they’ll be good and better than the Suzue.

I was told it’s because it’s cheaper to not have to do any internal machining on the hub.