Dominator 2 + Duro = Tubeless?

So i’ve got these two and i want to convert to tubeless.

I’ve done a ton of reading around here and other places, and im still confused.
Possibly even more so. :thinking: So many ways to achieve the same end.

If anyone have experience with converting this particular set-up i’d love to get some advice.
I also wonder if it’s possible to get it to work without sealant?

From what i’ve read so far i’m most interested in the gorilla / tape method.

My LBS carries these items.

Did the exact setup on my 26er. Split tube in my experience has been easier, but Gorilla tape with a valve should be doable.

The Duro is an excellent tire for setting up tubeless, the way it’s designed makes it super easy.

You will need sealant no matter what setup you go with though.

It’s happening!

How much will i need to tape? Is it enough to cover the spoke-holes?

If I remember right, the 1" stans tape was about the perfect width to fit down in the rim. As long as you don’t tape up onto the sides of the rim under the bead hook, you should be fine, but really, as long as the spoke holes are covered you should be gtg.

Yes, i cut my tape to 1". My rim is all taped up and looking good now, but i can’t get the initial seal. Advice? :stuck_out_tongue:

I tried both soapy water and a compressor.

Is it a new tire? or has it been installed with a tube before? Maybe it needs some spreading?

In my experience, if you can’t make it seal, try to take the valve core off and use the compressor. Once the tire sits on the bead properly you should be able to deflate it without breaking the bead. I’ve never seen the Dominator 2, but that’s how it works with tubeless ready rims.

I’ve had everything working perfectly for a while now! Loving it, no regrets.

All i had to do was step up the air supply a couple notches and the tire sealed just fine.

To revive an old thread, is there a secret to getting the bead to stay on this setup?
I taped my rim with Stans tape, but also used Gorilla tape for 8 little holes in the bead area. I assume all dominator 2 rims have these–where the valve is, there are 4 holes, about 1/8" (2 on each side) right in the bead seat and another set of 4 holes 180 degrees around the rim. I didn’t count on the tire sealing these and put a narrow strip of tape over them.
I was able to get air in the tire with a compressor and soapy water, but I could not get it to stay. It would leak down all around the bead area in 15-20 minutes. I kept adding air hoping eventually it would stay but eventually it leaked down and the bead fell off on both sides.
I’d love to go tubeless and shave some weight, but I don’t know what I’m doing wrong.

Are you using sealant too? That part is essential. Stans is the most popular, but a lot of people use Slime, which you can buy at Walmart and Home Depot.


I didn’t add sealant yet, but I have it.

I sprayed it down with soapy water and it bubbles along the bead, at a couple spokes, and at the valve stem. I’m not sure how the air is getting to the spokes since it is double wall. The tape is smooth and no signs of air bubbles or pinholes. Maybe it is at the valve stem, I need to look at that again.

Also I was going to put the sealant in through the stem, but when the air is out of the tire, I can barely touch it and knock the bead off. Should it be that easy? If so, I guess I should just put the sealant in as I put the tire on.

Does the sealant help seal the bead? I thought it was just for the tire.

The sealant seals all manner of things - the tire wall, the bead, and any little areas where the tape pulls up. Most tubeless setups will bleed down to nothing in several minutes w/o it, so you’re right on track.

As far as filling it, the most common way is to seat the tire as you did, then carefully pry one side of the tire off and pour 2-3 oz of sealant in there. Pop the tire on carefully and fill, then rotate and bounce the wheel to distribute.

You’ll be glad you went through the headache; it’s worth the effort.



If you are using a Schrader valve, it is even easier as you can remove the valve core and pour the sealant in without touching the tire.

It is always more work to setup tubeless when the rim was not designed for it but it is possible :smiley:

Good luck

The sealant was the missing piece. I was hoping to find and seal wherever it was leaking between the double rim walls into the spokes, but I couldn’t. So I poured the sealant, sloshed it around, and it held overnight.

Thanks for the advice!

Reviving this old thread. I have the dominator 2 wheel and Duro Crux tire. I have had proper tubeless on my MTB for years and in the past week have had several rides ruined by thorns in my uni.
I can’t figure out if going ghetto tubeless I need to run a split tube or just tape the wheel (spoke holes) with gorilla tape, like a rim strip?

Thorns are rampant here, if you go off trail anywhere you are 100% getting a goat head/thorn.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks

I would use the stans or similar rim tape, gorilla tape will absorb sealant.

Is a split tube required or are people just using a rim strip?

Usually it is either/or. In both cases, you cover the spokes holes to create a space under the tire that will keep air + sealant to support your tire.

Use whichever you have or feel most comfortable using :wink:

Thanks for the reply. I tried taping it up with 2x layers of gorilla tape but there is so much space between wheel, tire that I don’t see how this could ever seal up.
This tire fits so incredibly loose on the wheel I can simply pull it off/on without any effort or a tire lever.

What am I missing here?

Ok, I was eventually able to get the bead seated using an air compressor. Still surprised how loose the tire fits. Worked in a bike shops for a few years, prior to Tubeless becoming standard and have never seen a tire fit like this.

Sealed up quite well and now just doing the waiting game.

Thanks for the help.