If I remember right, the 1" stans tape was about the perfect width to fit down in the rim. As long as you don’t tape up onto the sides of the rim under the bead hook, you should be fine, but really, as long as the spoke holes are covered you should be gtg.
In my experience, if you can’t make it seal, try to take the valve core off and use the compressor. Once the tire sits on the bead properly you should be able to deflate it without breaking the bead. I’ve never seen the Dominator 2, but that’s how it works with tubeless ready rims.
To revive an old thread, is there a secret to getting the bead to stay on this setup?
I taped my rim with Stans tape, but also used Gorilla tape for 8 little holes in the bead area. I assume all dominator 2 rims have these–where the valve is, there are 4 holes, about 1/8" (2 on each side) right in the bead seat and another set of 4 holes 180 degrees around the rim. I didn’t count on the tire sealing these and put a narrow strip of tape over them.
I was able to get air in the tire with a compressor and soapy water, but I could not get it to stay. It would leak down all around the bead area in 15-20 minutes. I kept adding air hoping eventually it would stay but eventually it leaked down and the bead fell off on both sides.
I’d love to go tubeless and shave some weight, but I don’t know what I’m doing wrong.
I sprayed it down with soapy water and it bubbles along the bead, at a couple spokes, and at the valve stem. I’m not sure how the air is getting to the spokes since it is double wall. The tape is smooth and no signs of air bubbles or pinholes. Maybe it is at the valve stem, I need to look at that again.
Also I was going to put the sealant in through the stem, but when the air is out of the tire, I can barely touch it and knock the bead off. Should it be that easy? If so, I guess I should just put the sealant in as I put the tire on.
Does the sealant help seal the bead? I thought it was just for the tire.
The sealant seals all manner of things - the tire wall, the bead, and any little areas where the tape pulls up. Most tubeless setups will bleed down to nothing in several minutes w/o it, so you’re right on track.
As far as filling it, the most common way is to seat the tire as you did, then carefully pry one side of the tire off and pour 2-3 oz of sealant in there. Pop the tire on carefully and fill, then rotate and bounce the wheel to distribute.
You’ll be glad you went through the headache; it’s worth the effort.
The sealant was the missing piece. I was hoping to find and seal wherever it was leaking between the double rim walls into the spokes, but I couldn’t. So I poured the sealant, sloshed it around, and it held overnight.
Reviving this old thread. I have the dominator 2 wheel and Duro Crux tire. I have had proper tubeless on my MTB for years and in the past week have had several rides ruined by thorns in my uni.
I can’t figure out if going ghetto tubeless I need to run a split tube or just tape the wheel (spoke holes) with gorilla tape, like a rim strip?
Thorns are rampant here, if you go off trail anywhere you are 100% getting a goat head/thorn.
Thanks for the reply. I tried taping it up with 2x layers of gorilla tape but there is so much space between wheel, tire that I don’t see how this could ever seal up.
This tire fits so incredibly loose on the wheel I can simply pull it off/on without any effort or a tire lever.
Ok, I was eventually able to get the bead seated using an air compressor. Still surprised how loose the tire fits. Worked in a bike shops for a few years, prior to Tubeless becoming standard and have never seen a tire fit like this.
Sealed up quite well and now just doing the waiting game.