Doesn't anyone make a quality seatpost?

I’m really hoping I’m wrong here. First a little background:

For several weeks now I’ve been battling the evil “road crown twist” posture that I see a few other beginners deal with too. I think mine began by usually riding roads that slant downward to the right, forcing me to throw my right shoulder back while trying to go straight. I believe this habit has been burned into my brain and created a bad “muscle memory” problem that now persists even on level roads. I’m trying all the remedies suggested in these forums, inc. forcing my left shoulder back, checking seat alignment, putting spacers under one side of the seat, checking the bottom hub clamps are even, seat post straight, tire pressure variances, and more — and none have been a magical overnight fix. I do notice that the effect seems to subside toward the end of my rides when I force myself to keep my shoulders even, so maybe it will eventually go away.

But while trying to make adjustments to my seat, I get very frustrated with the incredible lack of precision quality I’m used to on a good mountain bike seat. I know the muni market is small and so the investment in higher-quality tooling and materials isn’t economically feasible to muni equipment manufacturers, but what is with all the wiggle-room on a four-bolt seatpost? Trying to make minor tweaks in saddle position is very difficult. Why can’t a unicycle seat use the twin-rail setup found on bicycle seats? Anyone know any good options out there? FYI I’m on a Torker Unistar DX 24. Maybe that’s the problem, I know this muni isn’t top-of-the-line. But I’m suspecting I’ll find the same type of non-precision 4-bolt setup when I move up to a KH 29. Thanks for any help.

There are high quality seat / seatposts for uni out there. They cost about as much as your whole unicycle though. Scott Wallis (wallisdesign.com) sells a special seatbase that attaches to Thomsons, which is the exact set up you described.

Thomson posts are the easiest seat to get just right. Just tighten one side and loosen the other for the best angle possible. A tight seatpost clamp will keep it straight.

Thanks – now that’s what I’m talkin’ about!

You can also use a rail-type adapter and that allows you to use all other rail-type posts.

What Danni suggested is the best setup though. As the SW seatbase doesnt need an adapter to fit onto the rail-post and and less metal for your fingers to get caught in.

What type of riding do you do a lot?

I found that when I had a problem in my riding stance, id just do some fast and hard muni, and that would kinda force me to be in all kinds of positions and reset me to a normal riding style.

Jerrick, I’m doing about 50/50 muni and street right now, both on a 24. Fast and hard muni isn’t in my skillset yet, but it sounds like a good solution. I also ordered a KH Fusion saddle recently, I think the foam in the stock saddle that came with my Torker has worn unevenly. That MIGHT be the problem, but I doubt it. I got an air saddle and took it off after a week, it immediately “formed” unevenly. Further evidence that it’s me, not the cycle.