I was just down at Juggleart in Melbourne tossing up whether to buy
the 36" Coker or the 28" DM for commuting and general cruising around
Canberra. I’m pretty much sold on getting the DM, but it has a crazy
looking rim, that to my mind, looks quite weak - not at all what I’d
expect from DM. It had a raised middle section where the spokes enter
the spokeholes in the rim and then was somewhat V-shaped in
cross-section. Is this standard on Dm 28" wheels and are the rims very
strong or do people need to replace them? While I won’t be offroading
or jumping it, I will want to be able to roll down small kerbs and hop
up small kerbs (10cm max). Also, what is the maximum tyre size that
people have found fits in the 28" frame?
Thanks for any advice regarding the big wheel.
nic (who is about to commit nearly a month’s pay to a single wheel!)
“Nic Price” <juggler_nic@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:c28b5eea.0206140700.3ca3c961@posting.google.com…
> I was just down at Juggleart in Melbourne tossing up whether to buy
> the 36" Coker or the 28" DM for commuting and general cruising around
> Canberra. I’m pretty much sold on getting the DM, but it has a crazy
> looking rim, that to my mind, looks quite weak - not at all what I’d
> expect from DM. It had a raised middle section where the spokes enter
> the spokeholes in the rim and then was somewhat V-shaped in
> cross-section. Is this standard on Dm 28" wheels and are the rims very
> strong or do people need to replace them? While I won’t be offroading
> or jumping it, I will want to be able to roll down small kerbs and hop
> up small kerbs (10cm max). Also, what is the maximum tyre size that
> people have found fits in the 28" frame?
Sounds like an aero type rim. I don’t think they’re generally any less
strong than box section rims although some people may disagree. If DM sells
it then it’s probably pretty hardcore.
I’d get a coker for commuting though, they’re much more fun and you can just
roll them up and down 10cm kerbs no problem. They’re easier to ride early in
the morning when you’re tired too, you have to do much less thinking about
where you’re pointing them.
the DM rim may look weak to you and even though i’ve never seen it myself,i can say as a former Coker owner that the 36"rim that comes on Cokers is weak too.
i would go for the DM solely on parts/tires being easier to find.the DM will be at least 5 pounds lighter and this will tranfer to your curb issue.
“Nic Price” <juggler_nic@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:c28b5eea.0206140700.3ca3c961@posting.google.com…
> I was just down at Juggleart in Melbourne tossing up whether to buy
> the 36" Coker or the 28" DM for commuting and general cruising around
> Canberra. I’m pretty much sold on getting the DM, but it has a crazy
> looking rim, that to my mind, looks quite weak - not at all what I’d
> expect from DM. It had a raised middle section where the spokes enter
> the spokeholes in the rim and then was somewhat V-shaped in
> cross-section. Is this standard on Dm 28" wheels and are the rims very
> strong or do people need to replace them? While I won’t be offroading
> or jumping it, I will want to be able to roll down small kerbs and hop
> up small kerbs (10cm max). Also, what is the maximum tyre size that
> people have found fits in the 28" frame?
Out of interest, how much clearance is there on the 28" DM frame for a big
wheel? My 24" almost exactly fits the tyre it came with and won’t fit
anything wider at all. If the 28" is similar this might limit any use of
fatter tyres on it if that interests you.
Probably best to ask Dave Mariner himself, you could email him, his email is
on http://www.unicycle.co.uk (I won’t put it here cos he might get spam
email off it).
i’ve just looked at the wheel on my DM 28"
the rim is a 36 hole Van Schothorst 635 (28" x 1 1/2") made in Holland.
its the sort of rim made for rod brakes where the brake blocks are
pulled >up< against the rim, looks pretty strong to me.
the tyre is a an Indonesian 28" x 1 1/2" 40-635 and looks to be of an
ordinary road type
Clearances around this tyre are a minimum of 3/8"
distances from the metal rim are 5/8" to the side and 1 7/8" above
DM would not use poor components,
hope this is of some help
BTW 1" = 25.4 mm
----- Original Message -----
From: “Joe Marshall” <localhost@127.0.0.1>
Newsgroups: rec.sport.unicycling
To: <rsu@unicycling.org>
Sent: 14 June 2002 16:45
Subject: Re: DM 28" unicycle
> “Nic Price” <juggler_nic@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:c28b5eea.0206140700.3ca3c961@posting.google.com…
> > I was just down at Juggleart in Melbourne tossing up whether to buy
> > the 36" Coker or the 28" DM for commuting and general cruising around
> > Canberra. I’m pretty much sold on getting the DM, but it has a crazy
> > looking rim, that to my mind, looks quite weak - not at all what I’d
> > expect from DM. It had a raised middle section where the spokes enter
> > the spokeholes in the rim and then was somewhat V-shaped in
> > cross-section. Is this standard on Dm 28" wheels and are the rims very
> > strong or do people need to replace them? While I won’t be offroading
> > or jumping it, I will want to be able to roll down small kerbs and hop
> > up small kerbs (10cm max). Also, what is the maximum tyre size that
> > people have found fits in the 28" frame?
>
> Out of interest, how much clearance is there on the 28" DM frame for a big
> wheel? My 24" almost exactly fits the tyre it came with and won’t fit
> anything wider at all. If the 28" is similar this might limit any use of
> fatter tyres on it if that interests you.
>
> Probably best to ask Dave Mariner himself, you could email him, his email
is
> on http://www.unicycle.co.uk (I won’t put it here cos he might get spam
> email off it).
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> i’ve just looked at the wheel on my DM 28"
> the rim is a 36 hole Van Schothorst 635 (28" x 1 1/2") made in
Holland.
> its the sort of rim made for rod brakes where the brake blocks are
> pulled >up< against the rim, looks pretty strong to me.
> the tyre is a an Indonesian 28" x 1 1/2" 40-635 and looks to be of an
> ordinary road type
> Clearances around this tyre are a minimum of 3/8"
> distances from the metal rim are 5/8" to the side and 1 7/8" above
> DM would not use poor components,
> hope this is of some help
Oh, in this case, personally I’d avoid the unicycle and try to get one with
a 700c rim as 28"x1 1/2" is an outdated standard and has hardly any tyres
available for it, all of which will be pretty much the same width. The DM
will be a nice unicycle, but you’ll have trouble finding any decent upgrades
for it should you want to and there’s no chance of finding an offroad tyre
of any kind.
Thanks for the responses so far. I don’t really want to get a Coker
just because the extra size means it will be a pain to transport in
cars etc. Also, the extra cost and inconvenience associated with
replacement tyres/tubes is too much of a headache in Australia. As for
the tyres, I got home and checked my girlfriend’s hybrid bike and it
has a tyre marked 700c and 28", which confused me slightly. I’ve
actually been under the assumption for a while that these are actually
the same size. Older racing bikes used a 27" wheel standard, which
then became 700c when they switched to metric. I think the 28" is the
attempt at returning to imperialism but is the same size as a 700c.
Maybe I’m wrong.
Based on the few responses here, and the high standing of DM unis in
this forum, I’m probably going to be buying my most expensive wheel
yet. (yay!)
nic
> Oh, in this case, personally I’d avoid the unicycle and try to get one with
> a 700c rim as 28"x1 1/2" is an outdated standard and has hardly any tyres
> available for it, all of which will be pretty much the same width. The DM
> will be a nice unicycle, but you’ll have trouble finding any decent upgrades
> for it should you want to and there’s no chance of finding an offroad tyre
> of any kind.
>
> Joe
“Nic Price” <juggler_nic@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:c28b5eea.0206171601.2905ac0a@posting.google.com…
> Thanks for the responses so far. I don’t really want to get a Coker
> just because the extra size means it will be a pain to transport in
> cars etc. Also, the extra cost and inconvenience associated with
> replacement tyres/tubes is too much of a headache in Australia. As for
> the tyres, I got home and checked my girlfriend’s hybrid bike and it
> has a tyre marked 700c and 28", which confused me slightly. I’ve
> actually been under the assumption for a while that these are actually
> the same size. Older racing bikes used a 27" wheel standard, which
> then became 700c when they switched to metric. I think the 28" is the
> attempt at returning to imperialism but is the same size as a 700c.
> Maybe I’m wrong.
Yep you are wrong, 700c is sometimes called 28", but there are several 28"
designations. 28"x1.5" is a different rim diameter from 700c (635 mm for
28", 622mm for 700c). The problem with 28"x1.5" as used by DM is that you
can only ever buy 28x1.5" tyres which aren’t that common any more, so you
might have problems buying spare tyres. I just looked round a few websites
in the UK and only the obscure tandem parts place had a 28"x1.5" spare tyre
and then only one of them, a cheap generic touring tyre. You’re also limited
to this width, rather than any other one.
You can tell this by looking at the ISO number on the rim or tyre which is
the bead diameter in mm, on the DM someone had it said “635” something,
whereas on a 700c rim it would say “622”.
The DM is probably very good, but if you think you might ever want a
different tyre I’d put a 700c rim on it, I don’t suppose the shop would sell
you it with a different rim fitted would they, a rim would only cost you £20
or so plus new spokes for another £10ish (that’s not very much, dunno what
it is in australian dollars).
As for coker tyres or tubes, they are expensive, but unless you’re intending
to ride very long distances you’re very unlikely to need one for quite a
long time, my coker has about 3000 miles on it so far, all on the original
tyre / tube with no punctures.
This is interesting to me at the moment. I have seen quite a lot of talk about 700c but not taken much interest before but as I was looking through the instructions to my Cateye Mity 3 this chart gave some insight into the different sizes.
By dividing the circumference (in cm’s here) by 6.2832 you get the radius so you can see if a particular tire would fit in your frame.
I measured my 24 x 3.0 gazz at 206cm circumference, which according to this chart, is equal to 26 x 2.0
“unicus” <unicus.6g3by@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote in message news:unicus.6g3by@timelimit.unicyclist.com…
>
> > See http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire_sizing.html for details.
> This is interesting to me at the moment. I have seen quite a lot of talk
> about 700c but not taken much interest before but as I was looking
> through the instructions to my Cateye Mity 3 this chart gave some
> insight into the different sizes.
>
> By dividing the circumference (in cm’s here) by 6.2832 you get the
> radius so you can see if a particular tire would fit in your frame.
>
> I measured my 24 x 3.0 gazz at 206cm circumference, which according to
> this chart, is equal to 26 x 2.0
the 3.0 width doesn’t always mean anything to do with the height of the
tyre, the numbers in the cateye chart are estimates of the height an average
tyre of that width will be, eg. different 26x2 inch tyres may be
significantly different heights, so whilst the chart is a good guide it’s
not perfect.
