Did I lace this right? And is it true?

So last night I laced my first wheel with the spokes from my nimbus wheel. (most of them a little bent.)

But I followed a pattern that looked the same to my previous wheelset. Is this correct.

Also, since some of them were bent, going a 1/4 turn took forever. So I tightened them all up to where they were hard with some give. And loosened and tightened when necesarry. When I spin the wheel, it spins perfect. So it’s true right?



You have a identical cross 3 pattern. Looks fine to me.

I’m not a PRO tho, I just built 4 or 5 wheels. You should wait for another anwer. Better pictures would be appreciated too.

The lacing looks right as far as I can see in the photo’s. I can’t see the valve hole in the pix, but normally you want it to be between groups so that you have better access with a pump end. It doesn’t matter for strength though.

As for the tensioning/truing. You description is a bit hazy. I think that you are saying that it was taking forever to tension by quarter turns, and so you went ahead and tightened them all quite a bit.

This is not a problem as long as you have a method that you are following. Just doing it by feel can get you into trouble. In the end it sounds like your wheel is straight, and so it may be alright. Keep in mind that modern rims are very stiff, and come pretty straight from the factory. Because of this you may not experience it being out of true until you’ve ridden it a bit. If your tension is uneven you could taco your rim.

A good method for bringing your wheel up to tension is to start with all of the nipples threaded on the same amount, like 4 turns. If that’s not enough bring them all up another 2 turns. Keep going like this until you start to feel the spokes getting tight, and be sure to complete the revolution so that you have every spoke at the same tension.

At this point you can start with the 3x3 method and bring the wheel to the final tension.

Now you have to true it, but if you have done everything else right you won’t have much to do because of how straight rims come these days. You will still need to do a bit of a touch up after a few rides to make it perfect, but this should get you in the ballpark.

For more info go to sheldon brown’s wheel building page.

Generally looks fine to me. The spoke bends will straighten with additional tightening. So I don’t think you are finished. (no expert)

How’d you like building the wheel?

It’s so neat when you near the end of the build: the spokes stiffen up, the wheel creaks as you balance the tension and finally the wheel trues up. It’s a very satisfying process.

I don’t know how people do this fast, it takes me 2-3 hours. My builds sometime have a false start or two, then work out. Maybe if I did more than 1-2 builds a year it would become a quick process. I need to sit down and study Sheldon’s instructions each time. The biggest confusion for me is trying to figure out the right and left views. Seems I always start with the right and left view reversed, but things work out as I continue on.

I think its right, i always build the wheels in my own, it took me around 30 min, maybe you should post a photo of the valve-union zone to see the cross patern, i recommend you that make the cross on the union zone with both sides, and in the valve zone, exactly teh opposite, like this

Looks like a 4 cross, which it should be for that size wheel.

I just saw that your in Ft. Collins. I never get up there any more, but if you’re down around here I’d be happy to look at your wheel. I learned to build wheels when I was 11 or 12, and built them at a bike shop for almost 10 years. I don’t know if that qualifies me as an expert, but I’m an old hand for sure.

That’s a nice offer, thanks!