Lately I’ve been doing lots of hopping around on my semcycle off-road and my Bicycle Euro cranks get bent out of shape in a matter of weeks. Does anyone recommend a certain type of crank that is made for trials-type riding and will last longer than 14 days?
Nothing but Profile, sir! Of course I only have the difference between standard steel cranks and Profile cranks on which to draw my conclusions. Let’s see…$15 a pop for a set of standard steel cranks by one set every two weeks equates to the cost of a Profile set-up in one year.
Bruce
I don’t think this will help…
http://reeder.video.unicyclist.com/short.mpg (1.6megs)
http://reeder.video.unicyclist.com/long.mpg (7 megs)
That’s a Profile uni, I believe (I think he says that in the long version)
You left out some important info. What size wheel and what length cranks are you using?
I warped the crappy junk cranks that came on my uni from Unicycle.com. The warped on my first drop of only 2 feet or so.
My solution? I took my cranks from my bike tool box, and put them on.
Cons: The spider (the arms that hold on the chainrings) are still there, but could be ground off (but I may need them for my bike), some people say the 175mm length is bad (I have a 26" wheel, my friend has a 24, he uses his bike cranks as well), but I have seen no downsides to this, that can’t be adjusted to.
Pros: I bet they are as strong as the profiles. Coming from mountain biking, splines are an improvement over square spindles sure, but they aren’t necessary. I ride rough on my bike, and have had no worries from the square spindle in 10 years…they’re fine. They are aluminum (no rust/not heavy). If I were to dedicate these to my uni, I’d grind the spider off. They can be replaced in any bike shop for dirt cheap.
I replaced mine with the 170mm Kookas from unicycle.com with no problems so far. They are square-spindled and so don’t require the Profile hub. The spider is removable has already been removed when you buy them.
The unicycle has a 24 inch wheel and I’ve been using 150mm cranks. I’d like to get the profile hub and cranks eventually, but they’re too expensive for me right now, so I’m trying for just a quick fix right now.
Ieatbadgers,
Unicycle.com has 158mm Monty cranks for @ 70 bucks, if I can remember correctly. In the last year reading the newsgroup, I have never read anyone refer to these. So, the jury is out. I would think that these could take quite a pounding and they are a little longer than the length you are used to, but will give you a slight advantage over those 150s.
I almost went with the Monty cranks when I went to 170mm cranks.
Personally, I wouldn’t go back to the 150’s, but I don’t need bomb proof cranks as I don’t do big hops. The 170’s rock in IMHO.
Work the maze.
RE: Destroying crank arms
> http://reeder.video.unicyclist.com/short.mpg (1.6megs)
> http://reeder.video.unicyclist.com/long.mpg (7 megs)
>
> That’s a Profile uni, I believe (I think he says that in the long
> version)
Yes. But notice the axle held up fine. Clearly the crank broke at the weld
(where the arm tube is welded to the piece that fits on the axle. I don’t
remember what Chris said about it, but it may have been (sure seems to have
been) a defect in the weld.
So in that instance, the profile crank was not all it was “cracked up” to
be. I think they replaced it for free but I’m not sure.
John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone
jfoss@unicycling.com
“If people want to truly understand mountain biking, they have to do two
other things: ride a unicycle, and master the trampoline.” – Joe Breeze,
one of the originators of mountain biking, in a conversation with Tim Bustos
Re: Destroying crank arms
> Lately I’ve been doing lots of hopping around on my semcycle off-road
> and my Bicycle Euro cranks get bent out of shape in a matter of weeks.
> Does anyone recommend a certain type of crank that is made for
> trials-type riding and will last longer than 14 days?
I know where you’re coming from. I used to be in the exact same situation
and it drove me bonkers! Steel Euro cranks are about the best cotterless
cranks you’ll find for the money. They do weight a bomb though. I’ve had
shortened Shimano cranks before and they still ended up bending after a few
months.
All in all, if you’re going to be riding in 6 months time, your money would
be very well spent / invested in a Profile hub and cranks. For something
like a year my 145mm Profile cranks are still holding true. I’ve had a
couple of sets of pedals with bent axles but that’s all. At the rate I was
going through Euro cranks previously I’ve saved money by shelling out for
the Profile setup. It’s a big hit to take in one go but if you can afford it
then go for it. It sounds like you’ll really enjoy the benefits.
Neil