Custom muni project...

What about buying the stronger nipples, screwing them onto some old spokes so they don’t clog up, and spray painting them a similar colour to my pedals? Would the paint be far too weak? If that worked I’d do the same for the seatpost clamp and make them all closely match! What do you think?

Tubing update…
I saw the tubing last night in the flesh so to speak, it’s gorgeous! It’s actually about 13x30mm which is exactly what I was looking for, and 0.9mm thickness which feels ideal. I don’t think flex will be too much of an issue after playing around with the 1.5m long bit I saw last night. The ‘streamline’ (tear-shaped) profile is absolutely perfect! I’ve also decided for sure that I’ll run a 22.2mm seatpost. This will allow enough room on the tubing of the crown so we can send the neck of the frame right through and neatly end it almost flush with the bottom of the crown, following the streamline profile…more spots to weld, etc. I really don’t think I’ll have strength issues with the neck of the frame nor the seatpost itself. I thought the small neck would look odd, but I put the two bits of tubing together last night and I love it.

So it’s all progressing well now…thanks to all the help I got from Rod (teachndad)…thanks Rod!

Andrew

I’d be willing to bet that if you spray painted the nipples, the paint would last pretty good. Nothing really happens to nipples/spokes anyway, so the paint should stay.

Spray painting pedals doesn’t work though, I’ve done it.

The pedals are the perfect colour already. I’d be worried about taking the spray paint off nipples when tightening them.

Andrew

to paint the nipples you would have to go around and scuff every one and the paint them so the paint has a rough surface to stick to and then so it dont scratch off you may want to clear coat them , that just seems like too much work for blue nipples

It is a lot of work…but it’s quite an important part of the colour scheme in my opinion. I realised today that any good nipples have oil on them. I’ve decided I’m definitely not going to go with the aluminium ones. Replacing them if they break is one thing but having them round of when you’re trying to tighten them is a real pain. Thanks for convincing me Jagur, and others. We’ll see how it turns out. If I can paint them without it coming off instantly I will, if not I’ll go for the strongest black tripple butted spokes I can get and most like silver nipples for a bit of contrast. The wheel will have a black and chrome theme to it anyway.

To Bevan in particular but also others who have strongly suggested a 22.2mm seatpost…
I have strong influences from opposite sides on this one, and after a fair amount of thought I’ve decided on a 22.2mm seatpost. This frame is partly a test of how small and thin we can afford to go and an attempt to highlight what I believe to be a fair amount of overkill in designing for strength in unicycle frames. If the seatpost or neck of the frame bend, I will have Nathan cut it off and fit a neck that suits a 25.4mm post. I’m glad that the tubing is actually 30mm wide…that’s ideal for me and it means that if I need to I can make this modification and still have it fit without changing the design.

Andrew

Just a quick update…

The frame’s been welded up now and I’ll be testing it in about a week and a half in New Zealand. We’re going to give it a white coat of paint, but not powder coat it for now. This is a test run to make sure there isn’t too much flex and that things don’t break, after all we’ve gone for pretty much the minimum in terms of strength.

I think it looks beautiful! The welds look really nice and the brakes fit in fine with heaps of clearance. I’ve finally got a muni with more than 2mm side clearance too, which is a welcome change. :slight_smile: The frame looks bent in one of the pics, but it’s not…that’s the camera playing tricks. I love the comparison shots with the old frame.

Andrew

Edit - The detail I love is the one in the top picture of the third group. At the bottom of the crown where the seatpost meets the horizontal tube…it looks even more beautiful ‘in the flesh’.

ooooooovery nice.

I just scanned this thread and couldn’t tell if your building with Alum. or CM steel. If it’s alum., with a 22.2 mm seat post, you’re cooked. Even with steel this is pushing it with the kind of drops you do. The cross bar and seat post section are the first to go, IME, and I’ve busted a few. But it sure looks good.

JL

John, that’s steel. Can’t tell if it’s cro-mo or not, but that doesn’t really matter anyways.

I would be concerned with outward flex of the tubes during heavy braking. Keep an eye on that. I’d also toos one or two thin guage gussets onto that crown. It’d take almost no time, but would really stiffen the frame.

Looks good!

BTW, I have jumped to the side against 22.2 seatposts. I use a 27.2 thomson on my trials uni, and a 22.2 primo rod on my muni. I will switch the primo over to thomson as soon as I can get a good frame for it… Speaking of which, if anyone has an old steel KH frame they want to sell, I’m in the market.

the welds are very good and nice!

heh can i come? :smiley: , where in NZ are you going to?

These are all valid points, and all things I was expecting to hear. Again, this frame is an experiment in a way. Judging by how few people actually break frames, I really think there’s lots of overkill in frame design. This is a prototype frame that will hopefully not have to act the way prototypes usually do. :slight_smile:

It’s 4130 ChroMoly tubing. 30x13mm ‘streamline’ profile, 0.9mm thick. It’s much the same as this - No longer supported .

I’m a fairly light guy and tend not to land drops sitting down. :wink: I realise that there’s still considerable force applied when landing them standing up, even when landing nicely, but I’m testing the hypothesis that for any drop that would break a frame I’d have more to worry about than a broken frame. :slight_smile:

This is another thing we discussed the night before last. We came to the conclusion that heavy braking doesn’t exist for my riding style so that won’t be so much of a problem. The gussets you mentioned were in the original design. This trip to New Zealand will be a good opportunity to test teh frame out and it will only be given a light coat of paint for now. I have the feeling I will want him to add that part on there…we’ll see how we go. Do you think the difference will be very obvious?

I’m very impressed by them.

We’ll definitely have to meet up…I’m coming to Auckland.

Andrew

Cool looking work, Andrew. My philosophy regarding prototypes differs from yours slightly. I want to know if I can break it and often make every effort to do so or have someone more capable do the dirty work. It would be interesting to find out if you can break it.

TOUCHE’ ANDREW!

That is very sweet looking, indeed. My goodness, nice looking welds. So how long did it take you before you said anything about how sweet it looked when you first saw it?

I bet there was a big grin on your face, too. :smiley:

That feeling of designing and planning and then seeing the frame come to reality is exciting.

I hope you have so much fun with finalizing the project and getting it to New Zealand for testing.

ENJOY!

Cheers!!

Rod

Greg,
Although maybe a little less logical, my philosophy is strongly influenced by my financial situation. :slight_smile: I’d love to know how much it will take to break too.

Thanks Rod,
I tried to hold off on the celebrations until I checked over the frame in detail…I failed though. I lasted about 2 seconds.

Andrew

So how much does the frame actually weigh, Andrew?

JL

900g (+/- 20g)

It looks beautiful, and it feels beautiful with the great new bearings that are in there and the new pedals, but unfortunately there’s still work to be done on it.

The gusset from the original design really is neccessary. The tyre rubs on the frame when climbing my (fairly steep) driveway. Now I’m terrified that even with the gusset the flex will be unacceptable. Any thoughts?

Actually, Nathan did suggest a sort of custom brake booster that would surely stiffen it a lot, given that there are two holes on each side to fix to.

I really hope it can be resolved in the next 6 days because I would hate to ride without it in New Zealand.

Andrew

There’s no way I’m going to New Zealand without this muni in rideable condition. I just had a thought…as a last resort (there’s not enough time to add the gusset) I can always buy a sheet of steel and cut out a temporary booster with the jigsaw.

Andrew

the frame looks sweet, but i can understand that the gussett is required. i definatly agree with the reasoning behind this frame and that there is often overkill (authough depends on your riding eh). i love the white too.
cher cher.

My original custom frame had similar proportions and a similar design and its flex was acceptable. Do you think the gusset will reduce the flex in this new one to within acceptable levels? I know this is all very subjective, but given that they are such similar designs and that I could fit a gusset about twice the height (couldn’t find a more appropriate word) on this new one, I should be pretty safe, right?

And do you think that this custom brake booster idea will suffice for my trip to New Zealand?

Thanks,
Andrew