My half-brother is going to build me a custom muni, I need ideas in terms of making a unique unicycle and also in terms of specs (measurements - dropout size, width and so on). It’s going to be a muni with a wheel size of 26 x something (input needed here). It’s going to be built in June (he’s moving to France, so he can’t do anything 'til they’ve settled in), so don’t expect anything too soon.
The frame is going to be built by my half-brother. I am also leaving descisions to do with rims and tyres to him (I have provided prefered measurements, so he’ll be able to choose the right size and everything).
One thing that I do need to know is: how much of a gap am I going to need between the tyre and the frame? I’ve heard that if the gap is too small, mud can collect there and cause a braking effect.
It’ll probably be cheaper to get a custom built machine by my brother than a new muni.
At the moment, I just ride my freestyle unicycle offroad, done a bit up the bridleway near my house and around my (over one acre) garden. I’ll probably be riding all over - I sail a lot so I’d probably take my uni on the boat to new locations to practise unicycling there.
If your primary interest is in bridle paths and riding in different places, I would recommend that you build up a 29er. A 29er has much more practical value in that you can actually do distances when you pull it out in a new town, and with an off-road tire, can handle quite a bit of off-road riding, from cross country up to moderately technical MUni.
If you’re using the Qu-Ax hub, I would go for the 145mm cranks as being long enough to use off-road but short enough to get around town.
I would not bother with brakes.
I have not ridden the Kenda Klaw tire, but if I were putting together a 29er for off-road use, that’s what I’d probably use. The other options would be the WTB NanoRaptor or MotoRaptor.
No, a Coker is 36", not 29". You can use a 36" wheel off-road on most of the same kinds of terrain as you can a 29er, if you want to go that way. It’s quite a bit larger, though, if you’re short on space or trying to ride in tight areas.
The only custom part most people are capable of building is the frame. Given that the Nimbus II and Nimbus X frames are both good muni frames and cost £15, the most you’re going to save is £15, even if you can make it entirely from spare bits of tubing and the welding costs you nothing. That way you’ll get a frame designed by a really experienced rider and unicycle frame builder, rather than a first try from an inexperienced builder. Once you’ve ridden for a bit, If you’re not happy with it or can see ways it can be improved, then it might be worth getting your brother to build you up something.
I’d really really recommend doing this, I recently got a brand new frame designed by a bike person who doesn’t really ride unicycles, yours for £300ish, it was really badly designed from an ergonomic/convenience point of view and broke after 4 hours of riding, it’s just been replaced with a shiny new frame designed by Roger (of unicycle.co.uk), who also designed the Nimbus frames.
If you’re planning of moderater muni, buy a Nimbus. If you want to someday (or might someday) go for technical muni, buy a KH 24 and save yourself money in the long run. Both are good units for the price and far cheaper than trying to slap something together from 10 different sources.