My half-brother is going to build me a custom muni, I need ideas in terms of making a unique unicycle and also in terms of specs (measurements - dropout size, width and so on). It’s going to be a muni with a wheel size of 26 x something (input needed here). It’s going to be built in June (he’s moving to France, so he can’t do anything 'til they’ve settled in), so don’t expect anything too soon.
Thanks.
welp
So far, I have a list of items which I think would be ideal for my needs:
Hub and Cranks (note that it needs a 48 spoke rim):
http://www.unicycle.co.uk/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=558
Seatpost:
http://unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=668
(bracket comes with a seatpost - size needed would be 27.2mm)
Seatpost clamp:
http://unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=595
Seat:
http://unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=842
Brake equipment (I decided that I DO want brakes):
http://unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=503
http://unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproducts.asp?search=yes
Pedals:
http://www.unicycle.co.uk/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=36
The frame is going to be built by my half-brother. I am also leaving descisions to do with rims and tyres to him (I have provided prefered measurements, so he’ll be able to choose the right size and everything).
One thing that I do need to know is: how much of a gap am I going to need between the tyre and the frame? I’ve heard that if the gap is too small, mud can collect there and cause a braking effect.
welp
How much MUni have you done? What sort of MUni do you do?
On dry rocky ground, there will be no mud to collect. In deep clay-mud and sand, the bigger the gap the better. Not just because it slows you down, but because it will scratch the finish of the frame.
If this is your only criterion, then the bigger the gap the better. But then you might catch your knees on the wider fork crown…
Is it wise to build a custom machine before you know exactly what you want?
It’ll probably be cheaper to get a custom built machine by my brother than a new muni.
At the moment, I just ride my freestyle unicycle offroad, done a bit up the bridleway near my house and around my (over one acre) garden. I’ll probably be riding all over - I sail a lot so I’d probably take my uni on the boat to new locations to practise unicycling there.
welp
If your primary interest is in bridle paths and riding in different places, I would recommend that you build up a 29er. A 29er has much more practical value in that you can actually do distances when you pull it out in a new town, and with an off-road tire, can handle quite a bit of off-road riding, from cross country up to moderately technical MUni.
If you’re using the Qu-Ax hub, I would go for the 145mm cranks as being long enough to use off-road but short enough to get around town.
I would not bother with brakes.
I have not ridden the Kenda Klaw tire, but if I were putting together a 29er for off-road use, that’s what I’d probably use. The other options would be the WTB NanoRaptor or MotoRaptor.
wonders if a 29er would fit on his boat, fetches tape measure, and decides it’ll be fine
Hmmm, sounds quite good, but wouldn’t the extra weight be an annoyance?
If I got a 29er, I’d probably be bothered to learn to wheel-walk, then I could learn to glide, then the brakes would become obsolete anyway.
I’ll contact Nat about this, seek his advice (he doesn’t unicycle, but he’s been building bicycles for about 10 years now).
welp
who needs a seat?
Hmmm, a 29" BC wheel, sounds good to me! 
welp
A 29er tends to weigh less than a full-on MUni, because the fat MUni tires and tubes are quite heavy.
I must admit, a 29er does sound interesting, however, I’ll keep my options open as the build starts in June sometime.
habbywall, I’ll probably go with a Kris Holm saddle rather than what’s on the list, cheaper, and they match the color scheme that I’m after.
welp
making this one…soon. its a very light strong muni
heres the plans
707 gram- KH 29" frame (yes 29", not 26"…but it works and is very light)
1200 gram- for both KH 140mm cranks & hub
770 gram- alex dx32 rim
785 gram- Kenda kinetics rear 26" tire
290 gram- traditonal KH seat post
890 gram- Kh seat
450 grams- jimmy c. pedals
Total = 5092 grams! (a very light 26" muni…this muni is lighter and stronger than most 24" muni’s)
pick a light tire, because thats where most weight is added. A Kenda Kinetics is very light and still wide at 2.6"
tholub, is the kind of unicycle you’re refering to the same style as the cokers used for rolling trials? If it is, I think that’d probably best suit my needs.
No, a Coker is 36", not 29". You can use a 36" wheel off-road on most of the same kinds of terrain as you can a 29er, if you want to go that way. It’s quite a bit larger, though, if you’re short on space or trying to ride in tight areas.
I meant the same sort sort of style (kind of off-road, kind of not, same sort of tires, and so on) if you can see what I mean.
The only custom part most people are capable of building is the frame. Given that the Nimbus II and Nimbus X frames are both good muni frames and cost £15, the most you’re going to save is £15, even if you can make it entirely from spare bits of tubing and the welding costs you nothing. That way you’ll get a frame designed by a really experienced rider and unicycle frame builder, rather than a first try from an inexperienced builder. Once you’ve ridden for a bit, If you’re not happy with it or can see ways it can be improved, then it might be worth getting your brother to build you up something.
I’d really really recommend doing this, I recently got a brand new frame designed by a bike person who doesn’t really ride unicycles, yours for £300ish, it was really badly designed from an ergonomic/convenience point of view and broke after 4 hours of riding, it’s just been replaced with a shiny new frame designed by Roger (of unicycle.co.uk), who also designed the Nimbus frames.
Joe
If you’re planning of moderater muni, buy a Nimbus. If you want to someday (or might someday) go for technical muni, buy a KH 24 and save yourself money in the long run. Both are good units for the price and far cheaper than trying to slap something together from 10 different sources.
JL