Custom 29er

First I would like to introduce myself since I am new to this forum. I come from Slovenia, am 16 Years old (184cm, 78kg – 6 foot, 172lbs) and have been unicycling since September 2012. I own a QU–AX Cross 20ʺ, which I bought after destroying my learner. It is somewhat changed (Spirits, KH Slim 2015, QU-AX Cross tire) but still my only usable unicycle. I started riding seriously last summer, but then snow and school stopped me. I only started riding a lot again this summer. I ride mostly street and am slowly getting into flat, but I like trials also. I have also done quite a bit of Muni, but then sort of gave up because a 20ʺ is just too slow. This brings me to the point of this thread, which is the custom 29er I am planning on building.

Here is the parts list with suppliers:

Frame: Mad4One Muni Frame 29ʺ Fat – FLASH GREEN


Seatpost: 27.2 mm Kris Holm – OnePiece

Saddle: Kris Holm Fusion Slim 2015
http://www.einradladen.com/webshop/Saddle-Kris-Holm-Fusion-Slim-2015
Seat post clamp: 31.8 mm URC Aluminium 2 Bolt - BLACK

Cranks: Kris Holm ISIS Dual Spirit 127/150 mm

Pedals: Nukeproof Electrons – GREEN
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nukeproof-electron-evo-pedals/rp-prod122950
Hub: Nimbus ISIS Disc 36 Hole
http://www.einradladen.com/webshop/Hub-Nimbus-ISIS-Disc-36-Hole
Spokes: BLACK Spokes, SILVER Nipples
http://www.einradladen.com/webshop/Spokes-up-to-290mm-20mm
Rim: 622 mm Freeride Kris Holm, GREEN Rim Tape
http://www.einradladen.com/webshop/Rim-622mm-28-Inch-Freeride-Kris-Holm
Tire: 29 x 2.35 Schwalbe Hans Dampf Evo MTB Tyre - SnakeSkin
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-hans-dampf-evo-mtb-tyre-snakeskin/rp-prod83194
Inner tube: 28 x 1.5 - 2.35 Inner Tube with Schrader Valve
http://www.einradladen.com/webshop/30/47-622-28-x-15-235-Inch-Inner-Tube-with-Schrader-Valve
Brake Lever Mount: Kris Holm Brake Lever Mount
http://www.einradladen.com/webshop/Brake-Lever-Mount-Kris-Holm
Disc Brake (caliper + lever): Shimano Acera M396 Disc Brake WHITE
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/si/en/shimano-acera-m396-disc-brake/rp-prod119954
Rotor: Clarks Floating Rotor - 160 mm - BLUE
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/si/en/clarks-floating-rotor-160mm/rp-prod88828
+ wheel building (UDC Germany)

This is my first time building a custom uni, so i have a few questions.

  1. Will everything fit? Do i need any adapters, spacers …?
  2. This uni will be used for everything from distance touring to downhill, and I will probably try different tyres in the future (thinking specifically about a 3.00 ʺ Knard). I know it fits in the frame I listed above but there is another, smaller, version (Mad4One MUNI frame Medium 27".5 -29"). It is stated on the website that a tire of max. 29 x 2.5 will fit, but the frame width is stated at 9,1 cm (3,5ʺ). My question is, will a knard or other 3.00ʺ tyre fit? If not, what is the true max. tire width this frame can take? I ask because I like the idea of a narrower (and lighter) frame.
  3. Did I miss something? Particularly the brake, i have the feeling that something is missing …
  4. Does anyone happen to know if wheel building (UDC) will cost more for an offset wheel?
  5. Would you recommend me to swap any parts? What do you think of this uni?

I am sorry in advance if the links do not work! Thanks!

Welcome to the forum Markolo :sunglasses:

Sorry I can’t answer any questions as I don’t know about the techy stuff, but your frame is a lovely colour !

I’m not personally familiar with all of the parts, but most of them look pretty good.

As for the width: I know there is a thread here on the forum (English I think) with the exact dimensions of the Knard. With that you should be able to tell as the measurements were very exact and detailed.

Two comments I have at least:
a) if you’re building yourself, then you probably also need bearings and crank spacers, or are those included with the frame? (I can’t read Italian)
b) your parts list is pretty high-end, thus I think it would be worth an extra €20 for a better brake (don’t know the Shimano Acera but looks like their low-end for €32). Don’t think you need an XT (and looks like you want light so maybe not SLX) but maybe Deore for €49 or €51??
c) you also need an IS-PM-160 brake adapter I think (costs like €10).
d) oh, minor, but you probably also need rim tape, also cheap.

Otherwise looks like some pretty good parts.

More questions

Thank you very much for your replies!

Concerning the bearings and crank spacers: I thought bearings come with the hub? Or am I wrong? As for crank spacers I guess I will just ask UDC to put the correct width in the box :slight_smile:

Thank you for the tip with the brake; I will definitely look into it. Do you think a 180mm rotor would be better? If so, I would probably need a 180mm adapter right?

For rim tape I was thinking just about any green tape (so that it shows nicely through the rim holes).

And for the tire i guess it will be best to look up the exact width and then ask the guys at mad4one if it will fit.

Thank you!

Yes, that’s the way to go

Spacers will come with the hub. I would go for a 180mm rotor, as on longer downhills heating will be less.
If you anyhow go for Spirits and a Mad4One frame, why not using external brake? The frame can handle both. In this case you can build a symetrical wheel, using a non disk hub. In this case you can even use the 32 hole nimbus hub, which then allows you to use much more rims from the mtb market. Of course there is nothing wrong with the KH rims as well. Just more options :slight_smile:

Brake

Here is the new setup for the brake:

Lever Mount: Kris Holm Brake Lever Mount


Caliper and Lever: Shimano Deore M506 Disc Brake - BLACK

Rotor: Shimano SLX-Zee-Deore RT66 6-Bolt Disc Rotor 180 mm

Brake adapter: Disk Brake Mount IS2000 180mm

Would anyone happen to know if the brake comes with brake pads?

Concerning the external brake … I am going for internal mostly because of the look (I think external looks horrible), but also because it is easier to swap parts. Thank you for yout tip anyway! :slight_smile:

Thanks! :smiley:

Definitely comes with brake pads.

As to the 180 or 160 size, I think either would be all right. I have a 160mm on my 26" and tried a 180 and it was too big (very “sticky” and not as easy to lightly activate). My 36" came with a 180 and I found it to small so I switched to a 200mm. For me the 160 on the 26 “feels” larger than the 200 on the 36. The 29 is in the middle… I think it’s a toss-up but I would guess that I personally would go for the 160mm (I weigh just a few kgs less) but it will be a personal choice, so almost everyone will have a different experience.

I think I will just go for the 180 mm and see how it goes. The area I live in is very hilly and rotor heating could become a probem (I have a particular hill (actually more like a mountain) in mind,and the elevation drop is around 800 m :o :D).

Thank you for your replies!

Semi-internal cable routing

I have just thought of a way to semi-internally route a brake cable without drilling the frame that I think should work :slight_smile: (not saying that I am the first, I just have not ever seen it on a unicycle)

I was thinking about routing the brake on the frame leg (where there are clips so it looks pretty anyway) and then into the seatpost tube from the bottom (if the frame has a hole down to the tire of course).
Then all you would have to do is drill 1 hole into the front of the seatpost. That wouldnt be a problem strength-wise would it? Would a KH OnePiece seatpost work for something like this?
The only problem could be if you change the saddle height for road/MUni, as the required brake hose length would change with that, but that could easily be avoided by leaving the hose just slightly longr than required.

Mark

Semi-internal cable routing

This is the third time I am trying to post this … so I really hope it works this time …

I have recently thought of a way to make the disc brake cable less visible (not saying I am the first). It would work like this: the cable would be routed up on the frame leg (some even have clips) and then through the bottom of the seatpost tube. It would then go up into the seatpost and out through a hole that would be drilled in the front of the seatpost. This could be problematic if you tend to dissasemble your uni or change saddle height a lot, but otherwise I do not see any major problems.

Do you think the hole in the seatpost would weaken it enough to make a difference?
Do you see any problems I missed?
Has this been done before?
and lastly, if this could indeed work, what do you think an average LBS would charge to set up a brake like this?

Mark

Semi-internal cable routing

This is the fourth time I am trying to post this … so I really hope it works this time …

I have recently thought of a way to make the disc brake cable less visible (not saying I am the first). It would work like this: the cable would be routed up on the frame leg (some even have clips) and then through the bottom of the seatpost tube. It would then go up into the seatpost and out through a hole that would be drilled in the front of the seatpost. This could be problematic if you tend to dissasemble your uni or change saddle height a lot, but otherwise I do not see any major problems.

Do you think the hole in the seatpost would weaken it enough to make a difference?
Do you see any problems I missed?
Has this been done before?
and lastly, if this could indeed work, what do you think an average LBS would charge to set up a brake like this?

Mark

If you want a shop to do this you would most likely have to drill the hole before bringing it to them. For liability reasons I don’t know many shops that would put a hole in a seat post.

This would be an easy setup with a cable operated brake. Any internal routing becomes tedious with hydraulic brakes. The brake would have to be bled to install it. I would charge $20 for the bleed, and more if unexpected problems added time. I would probably quote $30.

If you want to do this consider the angle of the hole so that the line is making a smooth transition into the tube. Even if you take care with the angle and cleaning tool marks/burrs from the hole it will cause wear on the line. There’s a reason hydro lines are all external. Probably the best solution would be to get a piece of metal tubing larger than your brake line to make a “noodle” that would redirect the line into the seat post.

Just no.

Sorry, I have tried internal routing in one of my frames. I also work in a bikeshop. Internal routings are nice, but they are a pain. If you want it to come out of the seatpost and in the seattube, you might end up with kinks in your brakeline and make it feel very spongy.

This was my setup, nice looking, but if you’re not careful enough when you put the brake line in you might have to bleed the brake.

Your choice, but I have experience playing with internaly routed stuff, if I can choose, I’ll go full external.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152340290531466&l=c0b2761ea9

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152340290966466&l=7a93d6e624

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152340290146466&l=6bb7fd9851

It’s now on the outside of the frame, waiting for a new frame to replace this one haha.

Thank you both for your replies. I guess I will just have the cable on the outside then. After thinking about it, I realize it always was the simplest and most fool-proof option, and still allowing for the dissasembly of the unicycle if needed.

Mark

Its amazing

I ordered the parts last weekend and I finally got the uni fully assembled and with a working disc brake yesterday :smiley:

It looks amazing. The pedals match the frame colour pretty well, to my slight surprise. I will try to post pictures in the next couple of days.

Yesterday I went for a short ride and found it very easy and comfortable to freemount and ride around and up and down hills. I also found out that bails from a 29er end on the floor (not on the feet) much more often.

I tried riding down a big grassy hill (where kids ski). To my surprise I actually made it down on the third or so attempt, albeit alowly.

Just a friendly tip to anyone wanting to shorten the disc brake hose themselves: Put the olive on BEFORE you hammer in the insert (it does not fit later because the insert expands the hose).