Having a ruptured tendon, there will be no real muni for at least another 6 months (been away for 6 month already, but now a have a shiny new KH29 to ride light terrain with :-).
Problem is, the less I ride the more i obsess over equipment.
I would really like to lighten my 24" (as it really helps a lot with “flickability”).
I have a KH with a mixture och parts from differnt years. I guess it’s now a mostly a 2007 but with KH/Onza cranks.
So ideas:
Ligher inner tube, frick'n 600g of tube is just sick. Would something like this be a rotten idea for muni (with a Gazz 3.0) http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?product_id=265&category_id=45. If this works it'd be the biggest and cheapest improvement by far.
Ti hub (but KH/Onzas are lighter by 100grams anyway that normal moments). Are there lighter cranks in 150mm length?
Carbon seatbase if kris ever makes one. The flex drives me nuts anyway with the plastic
Already got the new 2008 seatpost.
Already got Drillium pedals (I would not compromise platform size for weight)
Single bolt clamps does not seem to be an option for me. (At least the KH single bolt was horrible.)
I don’t quite understand the need to want to lighten the Uni as much as possible. It may be because I haven’t really ridden different types. I currently ride a Qu-Ax 24" Cross, which weights almost 3kg’s more than the KH24" (according to the web site info), and I am quite happy with the weight.
I recently bought a KH29" which is feather light compared to the Qu-Ax, which makes the bigger wheel easy to manouver (well easier than I expected it to be), but did find that riding in a strong wind that it was severely affected where my Qu-Ax would have just taken it. I find the additional weight makes it feel a little sturdier.
Perhaps if someone is willing to sponsor a KH24" for me I could give a better comparison
probably the easiest way to increase “flickability” is to get a lighter (smaller) tire. you could try the skinnyer tube in the Gazz but I have found that with a standard tube it just doesn’t feel right and folded even more than it used to even with higher pressures. It might be fine with that one though since it is supposed to be with a larger tire.
I doubt that lightening the hub, frame, seatpost, saddle or any other component that is not the outside part of the wheel will make much of a difference in turning ability but lightening them may help with hops etc.
Once again, it is time to bust out the “I want my unicycle as light as possible” thread. Check it out. We’ve nearly exhausted the possibilities in this thread.
-there is a carbon seatbase available already, kh style CF base available on unicycle dot com.
-cranks: There are lighter ISIS cranks, the lightest are the Qu-Ax 145mm cranks. They are not built for huge drops though.
I find that the less I ride the more I obsess over equipment as well. I was out of unicycling for 2 months recently and I definitely obsessed over parts and set ups way more than I ever had when I was riding constantly.
Get that and forget about the tube. Just go get some cheap $2 tube from Wal-Mart, that will be much lighter then those heavy DH tubes and it works just as well.
Read the blurb: they make the inner tube from thinner rubber to make it lighter, but give it a big “unstretched” volume (i.e. more rubber!) to stop it stretching and becoming too thin when inflated.
CF seatbases have to be the greatest improvement you can make to a unicycle… I have a rediculously heavy 24 (steel frame, profiles, 1lb seatpost), but it handles really well, which largely due to the CF. Stiffness is better than lightness I think.
