creaky/rattling noise on my muni

All of a sudden, I hear this creaky/rattle sound while riding my muni. =
When I get off my uni to turn it upside down, I hear no noise when sping =
the wheel. Apparently, the noise only occurs while I am “on” the uni. =
What could that be?

First, I’d check the cranks and pedals to be sure that they are tight and clean. They are the most likely culprit!

Try giving your spokes an extra 1/4 or 1/2 turn, it may be the spokes flexing as you pedal. Also check for any loose pairs of spokes and tighten them a little extra. I’m not a wheel builder, but if you tighten both sides just a little I’m guessing the wheel won’t be structurally impaired.

Comments anyone?

byron.

First: do NOT start playing with the spokes unless you have a clear idea what you’re doing. If you tighten a spoke, you are drawing a bit more of the spoke through the nipple which means that the end might project into the rim far enough to tear the rim tape or puncture the tube. If you pull the wheel out of line, you can end up with ‘Japanese table syndrome’ - making more and more adjustments until you’ve lost control of the situation.

The most likely sources of creaking, in approximate order are:

(1) Loose crank(s). The left one tends to come loose more often than the right. Remove the little plastic dust cap, then tighten the nut (or bolt) with a socket - usually 14mm.

In an ideal world, you would remove the crank, clean the mating surfaces, replace it, tap it on with a soft mallet, then tighten the nut or bolt.

(2) Seat. the seat normally has four nuts holding it onto the seat post. if these are not tight, the seat can move slightly when you are pedalling, and creak. Varies, but the nuts are usually about 10 - 12mm and can be tightened with a small socket, a spanner or small adjustable wrench.

(3) Pedal. if the pedal is loose, it needs tightening immediately - otherwise it may destroy the thread in the crank. Typically a 15mm spanner. Right pedal has traditional right hand thread (clockwise to tighten); left pedal has a left hand thread (anticlockwise to tighten).

(4) Faulty pedal. If it’s a cheap pedal, the bearings may be shot. If it’s an expensive pedal, you may be able to remove the end cap, remove the lock nut, tighten the pedal on the bearings, then replace the lock nut. It’s obvious if you look at it. (If it’s a sealed bearing, leave well alone.)

(5) Main wheel bearings could possibly be loose in the holders. the holders should be just tight enough to hold the bearings snug (too tight and they will distort the bearings) and the caps should be tightened evenly, so that the gap is the same each side. It varies, but I think it’s usually a 10 or 11 mm spanner.

(6) Your knees. :astonished:

mike, while it is probably not a good idea to mess with the spokes too much, it is pretty unlikely that your going to tighten the spokes enough to punchture the tube.

In my opinion the best way to find sqeeking, after trying to tighten the pedals and cranks, hold the wheel still and try to move the pedals, cranks, and frame in seek of slight movement. If the crank moves slightly, the problem lies there. If the pedals have movement other than the spinning, that’s most likely the problem.

How come Johnny C isnt responding here? he seems to know all the answers of technical questions.

Re: creaky/rattling noise on my muni

Mike, thanks for the long possible list. On the previous day, I did =
install new pedals (snafu). I’ve re-tighten the crank arm (2 months =
old), and re-tighten the pedals. Everything felt “tight” as it was. =
The only nuts that seem to tigthen is the nuts that “hold” the axel to =
the uni frame. That is hard to describe … I wish I had a picture to =
show you what I mean. The nuts face the ground (away from the sky). =
There are two nuts on the left side and two nuts on the right side. I =
think that’s what you mean by option #5. the caps might not be tighten =
evenly. I’ll double check that shortly later. It’s a Semcycle XLW. =
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=3D1&subcat=3D=
10&cat=3DSemcycle+XL&L2=3DRough+Terrain&L3=3DSemcycle+XL

As for the seat… I’ve definetly tighten those before. In fact, I =
think I went a little too far on overtighten them because I think one or =
two bolts were spinning a little. At least that’s what it felt like.

Thanks, again.

Re: creaky/rattling noise on my muni

Mike, thanks for the long possible list. On the previous day, I did =
install new pedals (snafu). I’ve re-tighten the crank arm (2 months =
old), and re-tighten the pedals. Everything felt “tight” as it was. =
The only nuts that seem to tigthen is the nuts that “hold” the axel to =
the uni frame. That is hard to describe … I wish I had a picture to =
show you what I mean. The nuts face the ground (away from the sky). =
There are two nuts on the left side and two nuts on the right side. I =
think that’s what you mean by option #5. the caps might not be tighten =
evenly. I’ll double check that shortly later. It’s a Semcycle XLW. =
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=3D1&subcat=3D=
10&cat=3DSemcycle+XL&L2=3DRough+Terrain&L3=3DSemcycle+XL

As for the seat… I’ve definetly tighten those before. In fact, I =
think I went a little too far on overtighten them because I think one or =
two bolts were spinning a little. At least that’s what it felt like.

I’m going to muni ride again tommorrow, so I’ll post again tommorrow to =
see if there are no problems.

Thanks, again.

Re: creaky/rattling noise on my muni

I just got back from muni riding today. I am happy to report that there =
are no creaky/rattling noise. I found out that my pet hamster was stuck =
inside the air tubes! :frowning: =20

haha I just joke (hamsters are cool). Actually, the only tighten I did =
was the pedals and thing that holds the axel to the uni frame (I think =
that’s what you mean by option #5). The pedals already felt as though =
they were tight as can be. However, the thing that holds the axel to =
the uni frame required more tighening.

I tried very hard to keep from immediately responding to this thread. But my will power finally ran out. :slight_smile:

Be careful with overtightening the clamps around the bearing. It is very common for these clamps to get overtightened to the point that they compress the bearing and keep the wheel from spinning freely. These main cap bearing holders are very good but suffer from the fact that they are very easy to overtighten.

The bearing clamps should be snug enough to keep the bearing from sliding around but not so tight that the bearing no longer spins freely.

Hold the uni upside down and spin the wheel. It should spin freely and continue spinning to a gradual stop. It should not come to a sudden stop or come to a jerky stop. Watch the wheel as it slows down to a stop. If it stops suddenly or stops and then bounces backwards a few millimeters then the clamps may be too tight. This test will work on a standard uni with a standard wheel, however it will not work well on a muni with a heavy Gazz tire because the weight of the Gazz overwhelms the forces on the bearing.

My rule of thumb is to only use finger pressure when tightening the bearing clamps. If you use your fist around the wrench you are going to get it too tight.

Re: creaky/rattling noise on my muni

On Tue, 18 Feb 2003 17:57:09 -0600, Mikefule
<Mikefule.j2mao@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote:

>(1) Loose crank(s). The left one tends to come loose more often than
>the right.
Puzzling. Is that only with you, or only in the UK, or only on the
Northern hemisphere, or…? Either way, what causes it?

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict

"In France, travel agents are not permitted to advertise on television. "

Re: Re: creaky/rattling noise on my muni

depends on your normal mounting foot and or which foot you land hardest on.

Joe