Im wondering., is it a better idea to use Steal cranks rather than Alloy
or Aluminum (I cant remember which it is) on a Monty? Because the AL
cranks that I have on my Monty bend every time I jump off something that
is about 2 and a half, or 3 feet. Im just wordering if steal cranks will
do the same.
-Max, (Im injured or I would be riding)Re: Cranks
----- Original Message ----- From: dingeman <dingeman@citilink.com> To:
<unicycling@winternet.com> Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2001 10:52 PM
Subject: Cranks
> Im wondering., is it a better idea to use Steal cranks rather than
> Alloy or Aluminum (I cant remember which it is) on a Monty? Because
> the AL cranks that I have on my Monty bend every time I jump off
> something that is about 2 and a half, or 3 feet. Im just wordering
> if steal cranks will do the same.
>
‘STEEL’ cranks are used by all the top MTB trials riders. Cold forged
steel cranks will prove stronger than any Al cranks you can get. these
guys jump off much bigger drops than 3 foot (like 20 foot) and the cranks
will last forever.
Don’t know where you’d get the appropriate cranks mind, try some local MTB
trails suppliers. If you get stuck give me a shout and I’ll try chasing
some contacts up.
I assume that muni cranks are simply MTB cranks with no chainring
or spider.
jon.
Re: Cranks
In article <003701c0c604$c4e9cf40$08e1edc1@samur1>, Jon Wyatt
<samurai@samur1.demon.co.uk> wrote: ) )I assume that muni cranks are
simply MTB cranks with no chainring or spider.
Or left-side cranks. -Tom
Re: Cranks
> ‘STEEL’ cranks are used by all the top MTB trials riders. Cold forged
> steel cranks will prove stronger than any Al cranks you can get. these
> guys jump off much bigger drops than 3 foot (like 20 foot) and the
> cranks will last forever.
Hi All,
No, steel is not used by all the top biketrials riders. Check out
www.jefflenosky.com and www.monty.es . They all use aluminum cranks. I
have never seen any high quality steel crank arms that fit onto a standard
square taper axle or bottom bracket. Tubular steel cranks on an oversized
splined axle, on the other hand, are quite good. I have seen these on DH
and trials bikes, and on unicycles. But they’re not light.
So to answer the question is steel better than aluminum, it all depends.
Black Widow Euro cranks were the best standard square taper cranks I ever
had, and they are aluminum. Second best (that I ever had) were pairs of
Shimano MTB cranks with the spider cut off. Then I’ve had several sets of
poor quality cranks, including the stock steel cranks off my original
Zephyr (Taiwanese) unicycle, some Bicycle Euro cranks (aluminum), and some
Lascos (aluminum).
Has anybody tried running two left Shimano cranks (and two left pedals)
with red (high strength) Loc-Tite on the threads? It’s gotta be easier
than getting out the hacksaw every time to remove the spider.
Chris Reeder
Re: Cranks
Tom,
Does this work well? Any downside (other than having to buy the extra set
of pedals)? What kind of glue are you using in them? (Loctite?) And is the
glue strong enough, or does the pedal sometimes come unscrewed anyway?
Thanks,
Chris
Tom Holub wrote:
>
> In article <003701c0c604$c4e9cf40$08e1edc1@samur1>, Jon Wyatt
> <samurai@samur1.demon.co.uk> wrote: ) )I assume that muni cranks are
> simply MTB cranks with no chainring or spider.
>
> Or left-side cranks. -Tom
Re: Cranks
In article <3ADA5E6D.EA518087@uidaho.edu>, Chris <reed8990@uidaho.edu>
wrote: )Tom, ) )Does this work well? Any downside (other than having to
buy the extra )set of pedals)? What kind of glue are you using in them?
(Loctite?) )And is the glue strong enough, or does the pedal sometimes
come )unscrewed anyway?
I don’t do trials and my unicycles both have stock cranks, so I’m not the
person to ask. But, I would be surprised if the wrong-threaded pedal came
loose due to pedaling motion. For one thing, unicyclists, especially doing
trials, exert a lot of backwards force on the pedals; the unscrewing
effect is so slight that it’s probably easy to counteract. It’s not like
you worry about your pedals coming loose when you ride backwards. -Tom
Re(2): Cranks
doosh@best.com writes:
>I don’t do trials and my unicycles both have stock cranks, so I’m not the
>person to ask. But, I would be surprised if the wrong-threaded pedal came
>loose due to pedaling motion. For one thing, unicyclists, especially
>doing trials, exert a lot of backwards force on the pedals; the
>unscrewing effect is so slight that it’s probably easy to counteract.
>It’s not like you worry about your pedals coming loose when you ride
>backwards. -Tom
I’d be initerested in this hypothesis if you tested it out for us: switch
the cranks on your unicycle and see what happens. In my and my brother’s
many years of experience, what happens when a pedal is on the wrong side
is that it falls off. If a crank is on the wrong side, it falls off. And
the idea that unis exert loots of backward force is true, but nowhere near
enough to keep on wrong-threaded cranks.
Re: Cranks
dingeman <dingeman@citilink.com> wrote:
> Im wondering., is it a better idea to use Steal cranks rather than
> Alloy or Aluminum (I cant remember which it is) on a Monty? Because
> the AL cranks that I have on my Monty bend every time I jump off
> something that is about 2 and a half, or 3 feet. Im just wordering
> if steal cranks will do the same.
Steel cranks won’t bend as badly or as soon, cheap ones will bend
eventully tho. Have a chat to the nice people at unicycle .com as they
will sell correctly threaded steel cranks in unicycle style shortnesses.
You could get MTB ones but in the long run its cheaper to buy unicycle
cranks rather than faf about getting MTB ones cut down, ground off and
rethreaded or helicoiled.
sarah
–
Euro-cycle 2001 20 - 22 July Plymouth UK A european unicycle convention
http://www.eurocycle.org
Re: Cranks
Tom Holub wrote:
> In article <3ADA5E6D.EA518087@uidaho.edu>, Chris <reed8990@uidaho.edu>
> wrote: )Tom, ) )Does this work well? Any downside (other than having to
> buy the extra )set of pedals)? What kind of glue are you using in them?
> (Loctite?) )And is the glue strong enough, or does the pedal sometimes
> come )unscrewed anyway?
>
> I don’t do trials and my unicycles both have stock cranks, so I’m not
> the person to ask. But, I would be surprised if the wrong-threaded pedal
> came loose due to pedaling motion. For one thing, unicyclists,
> especially doing trials, exert a lot of backwards force on the pedals;
> the unscrewing effect is so slight that it’s probably easy to
> counteract. It’s not like you worry about your pedals coming loose when
> you ride backwards.
I don’t know about trials riding much, but I know I had my seat installed
backwards on my Coker and I lost a pedal while riding. Trashed the threads
in the crank in the process too.
But I didn’t have it cemented in place with Loctite either, and the forces
involved for trials/tricks are somewhat different then Cokering, so Chris’
suggestion might still work.
Greg