hey, i have a £40 “eden star” or something from ebay like a month ago… been on it quite a bit… i have just learnt hopping and a minor problem is getting worse, when ever i step on the pedal it moves slightly… not round but in (towards the center)… so with the hopping its doing it more and more and worse obvi… well i hurd that if your cranks are loose they can round off the the middle thing and like destroy the wheel, kinda wanna avoid that til i got more money. its the square type btw, thanks
while im here i might as well ask… was thinkin of either getting a nimbus II or a nimbus X, how much of a diference is there?
Not sure what your message is here, but if your crank is loose, riding the unicycle will make it worse. Tighten the crank bolt/nut, which usually requires a 14mm socket or a large allen key. With square taper unicycles it’s usually a good idea to check them before you head out on a ride, or buy a crank wrench and bring it with you if you hop & drop a lot.
That does sound like a problem with one or more of the cranks becoming loose. There will probably be a plastic cap at the end of the crank (the hub end, not pedal end), which will have either a nut or a bolt behind it. Make sure this is tight. Very tight. Even tighter than that actually.
If you’ve tightened it and it’s still got any movement in it, or it starts to come lose after a short amount of riding then it might be too late and the square taper has already started to flare out.
Still, £40 for a whole unicycle is still half the price of a top end hub, so it isn’t as if you’ve lost a lot of money finding out how much fun a unicycle can be
Either of the Nimbuses (Numbii?) will be a world of difference to what you’ve got. The Nimbus X is more of a freestyle unicyle, so if you’re in to stuff like spinning round and wheel walking then that’s the one for you. Nimbus II is aimed more at the trials market, so if you’re already breaking stuff by hopping, then that’s what you want.
I would remove the cranks bolts and see it you can pull them off. Sometimes they are wedged on and you need a cotterless puller. If they come off, grease them and tap them on with a hammer and wood block, and tighten them up good.
You might want to consider holding off on hopping until you can afford a unicycle with a splined hub. They cost 2 or 3 x as much $, but are much stronger. Everyone likes the ISIS models now because that is the new standard crank spline.
I wouldn’t put to much hope in thread lock. That stuff is fine for sticking bolts (get the blue loctite if you use it, I prefer grease). Your trouble is more likely a rounding of the squares of the hub and or cranks. Sadly, nothing will fix this. Definitely not thread lock. You have to buy new parts. If you grease it up, tap it on tight and can snug up the bolt, that is the best you can do. Never hop with a uni with loose cranks, it won’t last long.
The best all around starter uni would be an ISIS splined 24 muni or a trials. Most of us have both. They cost more, so we generally recommend a Torker lx, but if you aren’t put off by the extra $, a splined muni or trials is the way to go. Especially if you are heavy and want to hop and drop. The Nimbus, K1, KH, and Qu ax ISIS gear are almost unbreakable until you beat them really hard for a long time. It would take years to break a muni, doing the stuff that would break an lx in one landing.
For a light person that wants to ride only on the road, doing free style stuff, a Torker lx is perfect. Get a 20 if you want. Although slower and harder to ride over rough ground, it is the hot set up to learn all those free style tricks. You might want to get an ax Torker, they are lighter, but a bit harder to find. I have an ax 29 and my fat 190 lb ass hasn’t broke anything yet, but I only hop to turn, nothing harsher than that.
The lx-ax Torker seats are the same and not so bad for a 20. Really, all you might need is to swap out the pedals for 13 $ twisted PC’s, the stockers are kinda slippery.
I didn’t understand your comment about how the cranks move “in and out”.
If pushing the right crank in causes the left crank to move out, I would write off that uni because your hub is screwed and you need a new uni because rebuilding poor quality starters is not worth the $.