Guys i got my UDC coker last week end and just wanted some ideas on which crank lenghts most are using.
cheers
Guys i got my UDC coker last week end and just wanted some ideas on which crank lenghts most are using.
cheers
Better post in RSU.
150’s are a good length to start at. 150’s also happen to be the stock length. They’re long enough that you can learn and get comfortable on the Coker while maintaining control.
Once you get to the point that you are smooth and comfortable with the 150’s you can go for shorter cranks as you see fit.
140’s do well for me for urban riding with a mix of hills, sidewalks, pedestrians, bridges, etc. Long enough for control. Slightly shorter than the 150’s so I spin a few MPH more comfortably.
If you’re doing big climbs or muni riding you may even want to go longer like 170’s.
It all depends on where and how you ride and personal preference.
I thought i had been riding 125s since i got my coker a bit over a year ago but last week my mate ed (edsbelly) pointed out that they were in fact 114s.
It really depends on what kind of riding you are doing and how confident you are on a unicycle. if you plan on doing any serious distance (i.e. more than about 30km) then i dont think you would want your cranks any longer than 125mm unless it was really hilly.
Cheers,
Max
I switched about a month ago from 150’s to 125’s on my Qu-aker. I use it for my daily urban commuting (4 x 4.5km).
Less control but much more speed! I can still still-stand when the red traffic light is on, and the other good thing is that my blue jeans last longer (less saddle/trousers friction)
Once you get used to it there’s no problem, I have a few uphills/downhills on my commute and it’s still fine.
The major drawback is controling my wheel when it’s windy. I actually ride the One and Only “filled wheel 36er” in the world (as far as I know) those who where at the last unicon probably saw it in Langenthal;) …
[sidenote]…not a good idea for road riding but it’s a good advertising tool (and the way for me to ride a 36 for free:D )[/sidenote]
So for a “regular” 36er 125 cranks shouldn’t be a problem.
filled wheel? i need pics
You tell 'em, Ivan!
Mine came with 150 mm cranks but after testing it out I changed to 125 later that day. It just felt too easy with 150, once I had 125s on it made it more fun to ride.
That filled wheel…does the “filling” support the wheel, or is it just a covering over the spokes?
Thanks I have a pair of 127’s that ill try.
I like 150s on my UDC 36er at the moment. I find that they give me a good amount of control, and I still go a decent speed. With a bit of practice spinning evenly I can now hit 17mph, albeit only on a short sprint. I’m planning to get some 125s to try at some point, but I’m not going to rush into it - I like the extra leverage for avoiding pedestrians and for offroading.
Cheers,
Mark
I’m all about choice. I find the 130 setting really great for long distances with moderate or rolling hills. I swap to the 150s for big climbing rides or major climbing sections of a long ride. Haven’t had much opportunity for the 170 setting yet, but I’m hoping to go visit Aspen Mike this summer to take care of that little issue.
aah that makes sense. lol i thought you were talking about filling your inner tube with something solid rather than air.
Just a (hand made:o ) covering over the spokes. maybe you can see it better there
(BTW: the picture on the right is my dear son!)
I was reading a bit about this idea of multiple holes on the crank. Some were saying that it’s possible that when using the smallest holes, the extra bit of crank hanging out could be bothersome. Perhaps a shoe lace snagger, of maybe a problem for one’s ankles.
What has been your experience with them?
You should never have your shoelaces out in the open on a coker.
Have to agree with Habby on the shoelace thing. I keep the ends of the laces on my uni shoes totally tucked under the cross-lacing. But to your core question, I haven’t had any issue with the “nub” hitting my ankle. The only issue I’ve really had is that when mounting, it’s super important to nail the placement of your “second foot on”. If your foot lands too far in on the pedal, when you come around on your first pedal stroke, the nub can kick your foot off. It has happened to me a couple of times, but not for a while. It was fairly easy to adjust and just pay more attention to where I was landing that foot.
Lucky you have a Coker!! I should be getting mine soon, anway 150’s are probably best…
Yes. I have the same Coker cranks as Tom. The extra bit of crank sticking out is a shoelace snagger and a pants (trousers for you Brits) leg snagger. When I’m using those cranks I always make extra sure my shoelaces are tucked in securely and I also never ride with long pants (trousers) that are loose around the ankles. So yes, with those cranks you need to be more careful about what you wear. But the same also goes for normal Coker cranks. Even normal cranks can be a shoelace snagger or pants leg snagger.
The adjustable cranks are great. Suits my riding style. Sometimes I’m riding big climbs, sometimes the flats, sometimes XC muni, sometimes urban sidewalks. Being able to easily change crank length to suit the ride makes a difference. Much easier and more convenient than changing cranks. I haven’t yet been obsessed enough to change the crank length during a ride.