I dug my old Torker DX 24" out to see if I could still do some muni on it, and found that the left crank kept hitting the frame on every revolution. I compared the two and found that there was a little plastic circle between the right crank and the right bearing, and there wasn’t one on the left side.
Is there a way to buy this? Or even to make my own without damaging anything?
When I brought my Nimbus frame for my Torker DX wheel the cranks touched the frame so I went at the LBS and just got some spacers there. Before I got my spacers I just took a piece of cardboard and it worked for a few rides, then you have to make some other spacers from cardboard again. Real spacers are better though:)
After reading about spacers I have been wondering how you know if you need spacers. So is it only if the crank rubs the frame? Or are thier other ways to tell if you need a spacer. I have 3 stock nimbus’s if that makes a difference.
I used an icecream pail lid and cut a stack of “washers” out of it and stuck them on the axle between the crank and bearing. It worked perfect for me.
Here is a pic. I can’t take a better one because Jakob has the wheel now in his Nimbus frame 
plastic > cardboard
ezas: spacers are necessary for unicycles with strait splines like the older Torker DX, KH/Onza, Profile, and Old school Qu-Ax.
I personally do not agree with the use of spacers on a tapered interface (square or ISIS). The spacer debate is almost exclusively about ISIS splined unicycles.
I think that ideally spacers can prevent crank creep and consequential loss of bolt preload under heavy stress and can increase reliability. However, to do so they do require tighter tolerances on connecting tapers, but there is an alternative to not using them in cases of looseness: adjustable spacers! Determine the torque for proper preload of the taper, install, and place spacers at that point. Practically one’d have to cut or buy spacers at the appropriate width (UDC spacer kit?), but it would be possible to manufacture a telescoping spacer that adjusts with a spanner and locks with a collar.
Sassky, my concern is based on what we are talking about in the other thread about the cranks bottoming out. I noticed that my 29" wheel seems to not turn as freely as I would like even with the bearing holders barely tightened down. It still does a good 10 turns with not much of a push but it instead of just kind of very slowly coasting to a stop there is a point where friction is kicking in and wheel says ok stop! My 24" does not do this. It just very gently coasts to a stop. There is not real stopping point. If you get what I mean.
Note what justtysen says about crank creep.
I’m going to give it a real good looking when my new cranks come in tomorrow or tuesday. See where I have space, where I don’t have space, etc.
It could be that your bearings are bad, or it could be that your spacers are contacting the bearing seals and thus putting pressure on the bearings. See this thread.
Bearings are only two weeks old but I will check them carefully when I put on my new cranks tomorrow.
I"m going to give it a real good going over so that I understand what presses against what, and what isn’t supposed to rub against what, something that is a bit of grey area for me right now.
Thanks for the link tholub. I followed that thread as it developed but at the time I was not having trouble with a draggy wheel.
I’m thinking is just a combination of a ‘stiff’ bearing and/or a heavier wheel. Like I said it spins freely its just that last little bit of coming to a stop is more pronounced than on my 24".
Anything which rotates with the hub/cranks can touch the inner silver ring of the bearing. Anything which stays fixed relative to the frame can touch the outer silver ring. Nothing should touch the black seals. See, no gray areas. 
I’ve had success in the past using pieces of thin walled copper water pipe,It has the advantage of being soft enough to crush slightly if the cranks tighten in further than anticipated but still strong enough to hold the bearing in position.A handy solution if you have access to a few (free)off-cuts of the right diameter.
john
Can I get a confirmation…? the space should be free and not pushed up hard against the bearing??
I have been using a wrench taht is 7" long, and tightening the crank bolts as hard as I can.
When I ride, I hear some creaking(on the downstroke for my left crank only when I use force such as when I’m pedaling uphill)…so I got my spokes checked at my lbs, then I switched on different pedals, but still hearing the creak.
Should I loosen crank with a crank remover and then retighten just so that the spacer touches the bearing?
Ya you’re good to go
I’d remove the crank and put antisieze or grease on the splines.
