Crank arm removal

I have the qu-ax splined uni, and I can’t get the cranks off of it. I have the right hex key, I loosened the slot, and I lubed it to bajesus and back, but they won’t come off. Any help would be great.

try putting a piece of wood through the spokes on the other side of the wheel and see if you can tap the crank off with a hammer.

Don’t just loosen the bolts, take them out.

You did do both bolts right?

I took off both bolts, but I will try the wood block trick.

I can get mine off by hand, you have to pull hard with one hand, puch with the other, and sortof wiggle it back and forth.

I still can’t get these crank arms off. I took the uni to my LBS and the guy there was only able to remove one. If anyone has any ideas that could help me I need them.

They didn’t have a gear/bearing puller there? I’ve had to use a bearing puller on a tapered crank once.

Here’s a thread with a picture showing how you can use a bearing puller (in this case the Evercraft bearing puller sold by and NAPA auto parts stores) to pull off a splined crank: Profile maintenance

so the block thing didn’t do the trick? Dang, i think you have to get a bearing puller then. I really think you should get a KH hub for your next hub, the cranks go on and come off by hand everytime, and are lighter than profile hubs. No creaking (at least in my hub)of any kind either.

I’m amazed that the wood and hammer trick didn’t work. I actually use a piece of steel pipe, padded with a sock, and just bang away till that sucker comes off. With new Profile cranks, it sometimes takes some serious hamering. Gear puller probably puts more direct force on the crank arm but you miss the pleasure of hammering like hell on the uni–which has hammered me plenty of times . . .


I figure I’ll try heating up the other crank arm. Also I’ll buy a KH 06 when they come out.

Heating isn’t a good idea. You could just end up ruining the crank with the heat (tempering the heat treatment). Besides both the crank and axle are steel so they’ll both expand at the same rate due to heat.

Try penetrating oil and let the penetrating oil work its way in for several hours or a day. WD-40 is one type of penetrating oil, but there is better stuff out there if the WD-40 doesn’t work.

Then when you put the crank back on make sure to use grease or anti-seize so the crank doesn’t get rusted on or stuck again.

Now that’s an historic post … Ryan’s first Profile hub and cranks…

Get a splined crank puller

Get the right crank puller for it. It is different than the ones for a tapered hub. I dorked around trying to get the cranks off my KH, got it stuck, and had to send it back to UDC to fix it for me.

Park Tool USA makes a nice one called a CCP-4. Costs less than shipping a unicycle back too.