Considering a Muni

Just to give a correct information Mutiple holes are made by all brand
QuAxle
KrisHolm
Nimbus
Mad4One
some have 2 holes few have 3 holes,
The type and quality of aluminum alloy is also important for the life time of many parts included cranks.

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I;m not planning on doing that on a weekly base :smiley: - I just ordered the Groovy 130mm cranks for this uni (Impact Gravity Pro).

For the muni I’m still not sure what I should get… I really like the look of the #RGB 27.5" and it seems like a solid uni… And if @Becky98 is kind enough to lend me her freewheel, then I’m sure it will be a great machine! :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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That’s absolutely true! I have the equipment at home to build and true my own wheels, and if needed I will definitely take care of my wheel. But for now all spokes still remain at similar tension.
I did however had to retighten my pedals again after 2 days, which I then tightend with loc-tite on the thread to make sure they won’t come off that easily :wink:

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just since we get quite many inquiries about the freewheel-hub these days, a quick status update:

we are still testing the second prototype and working on it. due to exploding lead-times in bicycle business (Roger already wrote about this) - a precise date when it will be ready is not predictable yet. we want to have in 100% durable (that’s why Becky and FlorianKaiser are testing the samples). Becky hub now has more than 1100 km and more than 11.000 meters of positive climb - which is already quite good, but we will release when ready, please be patient :slight_smile:

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Are you sure they were on the correct side of the uni?

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Spokes that are not tight enough go through a cyclic detensioning at the bottom every time the wheel rotates and fail from fatigue.

The whole weight of the unicyclist on on one wheel so it is especially important to have the tension sufficient on a unicycle wheel.

And a lot of wheels are machine built, so while they may be perfectly true (at least before being ridden) the spokes are at a lower tension than ideal. Spending some time inspecting/tensioning/truing a new wheel (both out of the box and then after the first few hours of hard riding) is well worth the effort if you’re into that sort of thing.

When building/tensioning/truing wheels you end up having to make a choice between optimising for trueness or even tension.

If using a rim brake then it makes sense to get the rim as true as possible. Once you’ve reached this stage, however, the spokes will not necessarily be evenly tensioned, so the wheel will not be as strong as it can possibly be.

If using a disc brake (or no brake) then having a very true rim is less important, so as a final step you can focus on bringing all of the spokes to the same tension. The wheel may not be quite as true but it will be much stronger.

Not in the unicycle world. There is no wheel building machine that I know of that can build unicycle wheels.

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Good to know, thanks Roger!

Absolutely :wink: - But that’s normal with new stuff. That happens with bikes all the time as well. It’s not like they fell off, but they start to rattle because of all the hopping and dropping.
Nothing a little loc-tite can’t fix :wink: (or a few times of thightening, but I prefer to be on the safe side :wink: )

That’s exactly what I thought, hence I didn’t see the added value of building my own wheel yet. Only if I want to combine rims, spokes and hubs which are not available as a whole.

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