I MUni on my Coker about twice a week.
After some hard UPD on the pedal/axle; my Coker hub is dead… RIP
Some people have been saying hardware failure is sign for upgrade?
Well my Coker’s axle has FAILED where one side is sticking out too far thereby GRINDING the pedal. So I finally ordered the Airfoil rim and wide hub from UDC. They are telling me I need to make sure the wheel builder does at “4-crossed pattern” anyone heard of this? While I was on phone I also orderd a 127mm cranks and UDC gel saddle. I am out $200, ouch. At least it was only a arm and not arm-AND-leg.
Now I will be able to leap tall building in a single bound, stop a bullet on my Airfoil rim… err wrong fantasy. Just no more taco-worries I guess.
I’ve heard good things about the Airfoil rims. Not a Cokeur myself but I bet you’ll be glad you upgraded. Any wheel builder will know what a 4 cross pattern is.
A 4 cross lace is what makes the stock spokes fit a different diameter rim from the stock one. It really was sort of a lucky fit that the airfoil would work with stock spokes at all.
The simplest wheel design would have radial spokes. They would go straight out to the rim from the hub without crossing.
By rearranging the pattern, and using slightly longer spokes, a wheel could be designed where each spoke crossed one other spoke on its way to the rim. That would be “1 cross”.
By extension, you could have 2 cross, 3 cross and so on. Most standard wheels on most standard bicycles are 3 cross.
A three cross wheel has a little more give and resilience than a 2 cross. A radial one would be very stiff, but also weak when expesed to certain specific stresses.
So the 4 cross is simply a wheel where each spoke crosses 4 others on its way to the rim. It will be a touch heavier, but a touch more resilient.
As of today i am an official Cokeur on airfoil my first coker trip was to ride it home and it was a blast… i shall take it for another spin later this avo, however i have been told that at the length of its current cranks the hill climb may be a challenge
I am kind of entertaining the thought of gett a coker, and I was wondering what are better overall cranks, 125’s or 150’s or a size inbetween? first I need to learn if I even fit on a coker though
Crank length is a very individual thing. The ideal crank length will vary from rider to rider, and depend on the style of riding, the terrain, and the rider’s experience. The Coker usually comes with 150s, and they are a good all-round length for learning, for riding safely near crowds, and for quite adventurous cross country.
Some people prefer the versatility of 170s, which will go up and down steeper stuff. Others prefer the slightly faster and smoother 125s. Many people who do big distances mainly on the flat like to cruise on 110s.
If you’re going to buy a Coker, just buy it with the 150s, then make a change when you have a few hundred miles under the tyre and know what aspect of Cokering grabs you.
There is no more logic to it than that.
I rode yesterday some rough track sand steep-ish hills on a 28 with 102s. Those very same hills used to be a massive challenge to me on a 26 with 150s. I like short-ish cranks on my 28s, but I have always preferred longer ones on the Coker. Of course, I have the heavy steel rim, and I’m scrawny.
I’ll take your advice at least till i get used to it. Went for a coker today, to and from the workplace and the supermarket. I live on a “hilly” street so got a good feel for the 125’s. definatly loving the coker for sure.
Does the UDC Coker not have the option of Airfoil rim any more I don’t see it, I was going to get that option but didn’t have the funds now I guess I have to upgrade after I buy it, oh well. I will hopefully be purchasing my new coker in a few (at least three, maybe four) months.
my first coker trip was to ride it home and it was a blast… i shall take it for another spin later this avo, however i have been told that at the length of its current cranks the hill climb may be a challenge
