Coker Spoke Creak

I’ve noticed my spokes creaking when I mount my Coker? Is this normal? The wheel is still true.

Re: Coker Spoke Creak

No, it’s not normal, if it’s the spokes they’re rubbing and wearing and will eventually fail (and you’ll be up sh . . uh, spoke creek), but first:
Check your cranks - put anti-seize on the bolts, then use a torque wrench and tighten them to 40 ft/lbs., 54 Nm, or 5.53 kgf-m.
That’s the easy thing to check, if that’s not it, then you’ll need to address the spokes (don’t forget the zip code). My recommendation is to find an expert like U-Turn.
You didn’t mention if your Coker is stock or new - when my standard Coker was new, it was singing almost all the time (very badly off key). Some of the noise was the cranks and some was the spokes - U-turn fixed the spokes.
Now my Coker is always so quiet that I startle people. :astonished:

I have decided to ressurect this thread because I have the same problem as brian seemed to be having.
My coker is making noises whenever I ride.
I checked the spokes and they seem to be the same as they have always been. Should I tighten them up?
I have a coker with 12g spokes on an airfoil rim.

It may not be spokes. It may actually be the frame, Is it the original coker frame? Tighten up the frame bolts and see if it goes away. I and others I ride with have had that same problem and everytime ti was teh frame not the spokes.

The creaking I was hearing/feeling was coming from the left side of a new set of azoinic magnesium pedals I bought recently. I confirmed this by simply putting on a different pedal and the creaking disappeared. So I exchanged them for another pair and now I’m riding “creak-free”.:smiley:

The spokes on my R36 made noise

The correct way to tighten them without effecting wheel trueness is to tighten each spoke exactly 1/2 turn. Buy one of these.
Use a marker on the correct wrench notch, to make it fast to find. Start at the valve stem, and put the wrench on a spoke and look at the wrench edge on. Twist the wrench counter clockwise (important !) 1/2 turn so it appears edgewise again. As long as each spoke is turned almost exactly 1/2 turn, this procedure will not effect wheel trueness. This made my wheel silent again.:smiley:


I forgot to mention “flat spokes”

Before you tighten every spoke on the wheel 1/2 turn, tape each one with a butter knife. Tighten any individual spokes that are obviously much looser then the others. They will sound flat.

It is definitly in the wheel area.
I took the frame off and after putting weight on the cranks it still makes a noise.

Are you sure to turn it counter-clockwise?
I already have a very nice spoke wrench for my coker, by the way.

Spokes are right hand threaded

So if you tighten the nipple from the tire side of the rim, you turn them clockwise, as with a regular nut. However, removing the tire in order to tighten the spokes is a lot of work, not to mention insane. Imagine you are turning the nipple clockwise on the tire side of the rim. See how that will cause the nipple to rotate counter clockwise when viewed from the hub side of the rim ? :sunglasses:
The suggestion to use a coin style wrench viewed edgewise, is only to make it easy to turn the nipple accurately 1/2 turn. Any wrench that will achieve this accuracy would be suitable. :smiley: