hey, just a few questions about cokers. can you buy a coker frame that will fit a koxx splined hub? if so, where and do you know how much? thanks.
The problem with stock splined hubs is that they are all too narrow for a Coker wheel. You need a wide hub, a hub that is wide between the flanges, to make a strong Coker wheel. Otherwise you end up with a big wheel that flexes side to side and becomes unstable if the spokes are tensioned highly.
You would need to custom make a splined hub so it would be appropriate (wide enough) for a Coker wheel.
As for the frame, Hunter Cycles can do it. I’m pretty sure he can do bearing holders for 42mm bearings. He has made frames in custom widths before.
so you’re saying a coker with a koxx hub would probably be weaker than a coker with a wide standard hub beacuse of the flex of the wheel?
I have also thought about this, there is no reason why the hub can not be split and re-welded with a sleeve. It is CrMO so will be weakend by this process but nothing like as much as a standard hub by the same process. If it is done carefully braising should not affect the hardness at all, but this would would require very careful cleaning.
Roger
i’ve decided when i get up enough money for it (should be about 3-4 months away if all goes to plan :P) i’ll build my ultimate coker. here are my specs:
Airfoil 36" rim.
Koxx gel saddle
CrMo seatpost
koxx splined hub + cranks
good pedals, probably jimmy c’s
a magura hydraulic brake + handlemount for saddle
and the rest of the stuff standard, tyre, tube, spokes, seat post clamp.
Tom Miller of The Unicycle Factory did that to the Suzue hub to make extra-wide Coker hubs. Should be possible to do the same to a splined hub like the Koxx-One that has welded flanges.
What about the KH/Onza hub? Does it have removable flanges? Would it be possible to make a custom axle/spindle that is wider, slip on the flanges along with a new wider spacer in-between? I have not looked at a KH/Onza hub in person. Just going by the engineering drawings. May or may not be practical to do.
Yes, you end up with a weaker wheel. Additionally, the extra flex in the wheel will make using a brake inconvenient because the rim will rub the brake pads when you climb, pedal hard, take a hard banking turn, or muni. A wide hub solves those problems.
ahh i see. i’d be more than happy to pay somebody in the near future to make be an extra wide splined hub.
The KH one would make a nice hub as all the work extending it would be inside the external sleeve (which would be easy to replace). Since this is also structural you would potentially loose less toughness than Koxx one.
I would recommend the braising over welding as it would not sofen the spindle. This being said the stresses on the centre of a hub are a lot less than at the crank end which is why the extended Susue one works.
I am not sure why you would want a splined hub on a 36", it is just extra weight. They are so big and cumbersome it is very hard to bend a crank other than by dropping the unicycle…
Roger
weight doesnt bother me with unis. i hate cotterless cranks and hubs. thats one of the reasons why i’ve opted for the splined 36er. that way i know i wont break it. i’m sure when i get enough money someone will be willing to make one for me.
That is the next question. Why do it?
Has anyone broken a hub on a Coker? Cokers don’t lend themselves to the style of riding that breaks hubs. Maybe if someone was larger than the average rider or exceptionally aggressive in their riding. Someone who likes riding down stair sets might be able to break a hub if they do it a lot and do it aggressively.
Ah, that’s a good enough reason. I don’t like the cotterless (standard square taper) hubs and cranks either. Cranks tend to come loose and it’s difficult to get the cranks on properly tight.
A good quality set of cranks, like the now discontinued Kooka DH cranks, can minimize those shortcomings. A good hub with good cranks and they system works OK. However, I’d be happy to see the cotterless square taper design go obsolete like the cottered cranks.
Another good reason is that it is very easy to change splined cranks, so buying a few different lengths and switching them depending on the terrain you will be riding could be done faster and with less risk of damaging the parts.
Someone who has posted here before (I can’t remember the name) uses a splined hub on his coker in order to change cranks mid-ride.
It is no easier to change ISIS cranks than it is cotterless cranks. If anything it is harder. ISIS are tapered like cotterless so you MUST use an extractor of some kind to take them off unlike most straight spline cranks.
Roger
That’s better.
wow, i never knew splined ones were tapered, well there ya go.
is there anybody who actually has made a widened splined hub?
I asked this question a while ago in a thread. Most of the people said that it wasnt a good idea but there was one person( i wish i could remember who…
) who said that he had been running a splined Coker with the 03/04 KH hub for a year or so with no problems…Do a search for “Splined Coker” and you can probably find the thread.
To be fair, the 05/06KH cranks (pretty much the same animal) have a hex bolt in the side, and they’re self-extracting. so with a nice big allen key you can remove the whole crank pretty fast. It’s definitely lighter than carrying the tools needed to remove a cotterless crank.
I’d go for a UDC extra wide hub with some decent cotterless cranks for MUni and some united cranks for road unicycling myself. I have no idea why you’d want a splined crankset, but if you prefer riding splined cranks (don’t see why) I’d go for Koxx cos they’re better for your ankles.
You can get cotterless cranks in all sizes, splined cranks are much more expensive and you have less options in size.
I don’t see you doing any big drops on a coker, so the splined cranks will be pretty useless, If I were you I’d discuss this with Roger in a mail.
All the best,
Dustin
I used a 03/04 KH24 MUni hub, which is narrow but works ok on the airfoil rim. The Coker spokes are too fat to fit in the holes, since I wanted to use it again on a MUni I didn’t want to drill out the holes. By turning the spokes I was able to screw them through. If you get the stainless steel spokes from UDC they will fit better. It rode great and soild and I was able to switch crank size with only a couple allen wrenches. I rode it almost every day for over a year without any problems. It is a nice feeling to be able to crank up steep hills without any crank problems to worry about, I know it is over kill but I have destoryed a few hubs because I was always changing the cranks on the road without proper tools.
Just this weekend I swaped out the hub for a normal UDC hub and stainless steel spokes so I could put on some kookas cranks I got from PDC that have three holes drilled in them (170, 145, 120). I had a great long ride on it today using all three lenghts, this system works better for me because the type of riding I do(120 on the paved road to the hills switch to the 170 for the long steep up hill on the logging road then the 145 for light MUni trail riding downhill back to home).