Coker Muni

It’s totally possible to ride fairly technical single tracks on the Coker but the limiting factor is gear–unless there’s gear I haven’t heard of. I slapped some Black Widow 175’s on and bent them (slightly) on a measly two foot drop. Rolling hops (drops) seem to be are okay. But I’m not much of a Coker dude so far as knowledge and experience goes–maybe there’s some way to string a Airfoil rim to a Profile hub or something since the other hubs are garbage–like tin.

Don’t know what the outter envelop is here but I reckon to find out tomorrow with the OC crew.


I smell a California Coker MUni Weekend:D

I will start saving extra wheel sets now.

Coker MUni is extremely addicting as well as the best ride and most fun you can have on one wheel.


Hit up Scott Wallis. He’s running a Dave Stockton wheelset on his Coker on our local trails and isn’t pussy-footing around with it either. I don’t know what cranks he’s got on it though.

If I remember correctly, Trevor has an Airfoil laced to a Profile hub.

I’m using the PDC modified Kooka cranks with my Coker now. They’re drilled for 130, 150, 170. The Kooka cranks are strong. If you can find some, get them.

The Black Widows aren’t that strong for more aggressive muni riding. An inexpensive alternative would be Sugino tandem cranks. They are available in 170 or 175. The captain’s right crank on a tandem has no spider. So you get a RH captain’s crank and pair it with a matching LH normal crank. You can get the Sugino cranks from any bike shop that has the QBC catalog. Price is $15-$20 for each crank (so $30-$40 for the pair). Alfred E. Bike has them in their online catalog (search the catalog for “tandem”). They’re better than the Black Widow’s, but still not the strongest cranks around.

The problem with a Profile hub is that the hub is too narrow. The wheel build will not be very strong. You need a wide hub.

The other problem will be keeping the wheel true. I regularly knock my Coker wheel out of true doing XC muni with it. It will go out of true and rub the brake. A Stockton wheel build would do better (mine is a local wheel build). But the big wheel can only take so much before it will go out of true.

when i get my coker i’ll ride it till it dies, then i’ll get an airfoil, then i’ll get koxx hub and cranks. i’ll get the hub widened by anther 20mm and it’ll be sweet

kh moment hub, zoo ffw cranks.

It would be great if Kris Holm would make a wide hub version of his new moment hubs for cokers. I wonder what his minimum number of hubs whould be for it to be cost efective.

Which would open him up to demands for more crank lengths. He can’t win. Give us something and we want more. :slight_smile:

A wide Moment hub with a suitable selection of crank sizes would be most excellent.

Then we’ll need suitable frames that fit the 42mm bearing size.

He does indeed have profiles, but I think it’s on the steel rim.

I saw two guys with KH/Onza hubs built in to seemingly otherwise standard cokers at Unicon, they said they’d done it just to get a hub with wider flanges to get the wheel stronger.

I agree with John, you need a wider hub than a profile or even the KH (this is about 6mm wider than the profile if my figures are right). This is 25mm narrower than the UDC special wide flange hub!

For road work I have a narrow hub (UDC wide flange hub) but for off road I switch in the UDC special wide flange hub. The wheel needs it for races like the Mountain Mayhem.

I think that it was Tom Miller who was cutting and widening the Suzue hubs. It may be worth asking him to manufacture a wide flange splined hub. It should work quite well, especially since the hub material is CrMo and will cope better with the welding better than the Susue hardened standard steel.



Then we’ll need suitable frames that fit the 42mm bearing size.[/QUOTE]

You can get bearings to fit almost any combination. I bet there are bearings that would fit the KH Moment with a 40mm OD.

Simple answer to this one is not at the moment and I dont think that there ever will be any. The bearings are already very special low profile and would normally be 47mm diameter.


Why not simply cut a KH moment hub and sleeve it in the manner of widened Suzue hubs? Should be no more difficult than widening a Suzue. KH moment cranks come in a pretty good range of sizes - 125, 137, 150 and 165mm - certainly enough selection for offroad cokering!

Standard coker frames will accept both 40mm and 42mm bearing sizes, though many custom frames won’t.

I have a widened Suzue hub for sale if anyone is interested. Photo here. Make me an offer.

Vivalargo - Kookas are good for offroad cokering, as JC mentioned. They’re just kinda hard to find.

Then make the frames to fit a 47mm OD bearing and include a shim so the frame could be used with 42mm or 40mm bearings.

If the Moment hub and KH frame requires a special custom bearing size, why not just make the frame to fit a standard bearing? 47mm bearing holders on a frame would seem reasonable. Being able to use stock bearings that are more durable would be a win win.

That’s too bad.

It does look like a fat spindle and it would be heavy if it was much wider.

The UDC coker hub is heavy enough and it works well if you have good cranks.

for what it’s worth, the moment hub is hollow. people seem to be forgetting that with isis, you have a huge range of (strong) cranks and sizes to choose from.

maybe we need a new coker frame to accomidate kh size bearings?

Offroad cokering is really good fun. My airfoil / extra wide hub / slick tyre combo is holding up fine so far. I have 150mm ProWheel alloy cranks installed which give me a decent amount of torque on any inclines of gnarly bits.

For added fun, I often do offroad stuff in the dark :slight_smile:

With the coker it’s really fun to blast round gnarly trails and singletrack - this kind of riding has the bonus of not putting too much strain on the hub / cranks / wheel. I guess if I was going to go off lots of drops I might want a smaller wheel and splined hub, but there isn’t really that kind of terrain in this area :frowning:

Already tried it… you will understand when you see what is needed to be done and why it is was not a prefered option. It makes a big heavy lump at the bearing interface. There is also a problem with making shims that are bigger than 1.5mm in thickness due to the size of the lip; the bearings would just not be supported.

The bearings will become more available with time.