Well with all the complaints from those who do coker muni, the alum. cranks tend to either break outright, or the square taper gets loose quickly, whereas the steel cranks may bend, but they won’t break, leaving you stranded! I don’t know if this is a rare occurance, or has more to do with the weight of the rider, or if you’re doing excessive drops. I think I’ll be getting steel 175’s for CMW coker muni.
Thanks. I will keep shopping. The triple drilled Kookas sounds like they would have been just the thing for me. Too bad there not available anymore.
Perhaps I will have a pair of ProWheels double drilled. I don’t MUni. So 150/125 would probably do for me.
I don’t do any drops on my Coker. The stress comes from riding downhill without a brake – I’m applying a lot of pressure to the cranks to keep from accelerating.
152s should be fine for the cokering at CMW. You might get extra control from 175s but at the same time you’ll get extra saddle soreness.
I’ve been using cheapish aluminum cranks for quite some time on my N36. After tightening them down multiple times over several rides after installing them, I don’t have much problem with them coming loose–tightening them every 20-30 miles seems adequate.
Other then the fact that fatigued aluminum snaps eventually, the big problem with aluminum cranks is that changing cranks a lot can wear on the square tapers on the hub, eventually requiring the hub to be replaced. I try to avoid this problem by rarely swapping cranks.
Personally, I think 175s are quite excessive. I don’t think anyone around here rides anything longer than 150s on big wheel rides. And, I’ve only used 125s and 140s.
you get two left pedals and then be sure to tighten the right one frequently.
Sorry I don’t see what this has to do with specifically aluminium cranks, i would have thought that if anything steel cranks will damage the hub more with repeated refittings, as the material is harder.
I use Qu-Ax aluminium freestyle cranks, they come in 125 and 114 (not relevant to the original quesiton I know but a hot tip) I installed them and have never had to touch them again, same for my mate rupert who runs the same. no doubt if you abused the heavily they would break, but for road riding they’re incredibly light, and no Q-factor.
aren’t kookas aluminum too? I’ve never heard of a problem with them because of their material.
Hmmm. I’m only echoing what I’ve heard. I’m not a metals expert, so please correct me if I’m wrong. I’ve always been told that aluminum is harder, so the sharp edges dig into the steel square tapers more. Whereas, the steel to steel interface is much more forgiving.
If the Kookas are aluminum, and the Black Widows are suitable for BMX, I think the Black Widows would be plenty sufficient for road use on a 36er. Now, would the Black Widows stand to being double drilled?
I have heard that steel to steel is much more durable than mixing metal types. I think that goes for most any application.
steel is much harder, stronger then aluminum per cc
No one makes aluminum drill bits !. You could not drill steel with alum, while steel bits cut alum like butter. Likewise, alum cranks won’t wear down a steel axle like steel could. Because alum is so light by volume, it can make a good frame. The walls of the KH frame are much thicker then the walls of a steel frame. In the motorcycle world it has long been a toss up as to what makes the best frame material. Both chromium molybdimum (sp ) steel alloy, and alum alloy frames are popular.