Coker crank brands

Does anybody use these? I’m thinking about getting a pair of the 175’s for CMW coker muni rides. The price seems pretty steep at $89 for a pair of square tapered cranks, but they do look like they’re made well. I’ve searched all over the web and haven’t found any others, at least without a spider attachment. ANy other brand recommdations? Thanks!


little kids use those for bmx bikes…
they kids only weigh about 120lbs max i would imagine…but then again these kids are jumping like 7feet in the air at times…
im pretty sure theyd be a good pair for a coker…
have u tried asking ur LBS yet? or went to a bmx track or the skateparks and the bmx guys about them?

LBS? They don’t carry those and don’t know the first thing about unicycling, especially coker or extreme uni.

These are also supposed to be pretty strong.

Yeah I have the first ones (prowheel) in 127mm, but I wanted a non-q factor in the longer cranks. Those second ones you listed are sold in left only, and are $50 each, so what good are those unless you only ride one footed haha!:smiley:

I have these in 125mm on my coker:

They are amazing, so light yet totally solid feeling.

Yeah those seem nice, but the longest they come is 152 and I really want 175’s. And just to clarify again, I normally use my prowheel 127’s for everyday road riding, but I want to do crazy stuff offroad, climb the really steep stuff, stop on a dime without the need for a brake, etc. Plus I can still pedal fast enough to keep up with the 152 crowd!:stuck_out_tongue:

have u thought about mountain bike cranks? or will they not fit?

Don’t most bike/mtb cranks have a “spider” built in to one of the cranks. They have to really unicycle cranks I think.

You could try some of these:

Personally, I use the 170 ProWheel cranks that I’ve drilled for 145mm also. With a cheap 15mm wrench in my pocket, I can change the pedals out in under 2 minutes.

If you are interested, let me know.

I was wondering wether it could be a good thing to use “Kris Holm Twin-hole Moment ISIS Cranks” on a Coker
well for sure that means you will have to set-up a Coker with ISIS hub which may be overkill … but who knows?
(yes it is a 125/150 combination but this is what I need)

I have used the Sugino cranks from AE bike with no problems, although now I have a set of drilled KOOKA cranks from PDC and they work great.

I have a pair of the Black Widows in 160mm. Use caution, as they are prone to stripping when you put on the pedals. Always use a very light touch to make sure you’re on the threads!

Beyond that they’re great looking, though they seem a little springy. I have them on my 29" and I always get the feeling that my pedals are flexing as I ride. This could be a good thing; a tiny amount of suspension as well as a way for the cranks to avoid getting bent! But they are expensive, so use the Pro Wheels if they come in the size you need. For a Coker a little bit of Q doesn’t matter, honestly.

i run 152 Prowheel aluminiums about half of the time, the other half i run 102 steel no name cranks. they seem to work fine for me.

I’ve got a pair of those Black Widow cranks in 175 and they bent like taffy from a puny-ass 18-inch drop. Nathan or Corbin probably has the info you need.


What about a third hole at about 120mm, for road riding; the 145’s would be too long, but the 170 size would be great for muni!

I’ve had nothing but bad experiences with aluminum cranks. They aren’t made to handle huge amounts of torque – as Mr. Foss noted, they tend to strip quite easily. When they fail, they fail catastrophically.

My two cents: If you’re doing any off-road riding at all, stick with steel cranks. They’re a little heavier, but they’ll last longer and you won’t end up having to walk for days when you’ve stripped a crank 5+ miles from the trailhead :frowning:

I’ve used aluminum/carbon fibre race face cranks in 175’s, and kookas in 170s. they were both awesome.

the spider isn’t an issue for the crank (other than pants grabbing) the issue with MTB cranks is that sometimes, in order to tighten them down enough, they interfere with the bearing turning…like the crank is too deep for the square taper, and you tighten the crank into the unicycle frame.

We tried to put Tim’s Shimano (LX?) cranks on the Coker, and the spinning would seize before the crank was fully tightened on.

I’ll have to check the cranks and see if a third would be possible. I believe the internal groove for saving weight doesn’t allow enough material for a hole in that location, though.

Would the Black Widows be ok for road use on a Coker? Double drilled?