monocyclism- the nimbus and coker v2 frames are lockable because a bike lock can be thread through the legs of the frame (because of the double tube design) and through the wheel at the same time. This would stop a person from undoing the allen bolts on your bearing holders and getting off with your frame wile leaving your wheel attached to whatever it was locked to.
From the above i would go a KH36er. Alu frame, right bearing holders for a shlumpf, ISIS-double hole crank compatible, best rim/tyre combo and most comfortable seat, the right number of spokes (whoever thinks a 36er needs to have 48 spokes is a moron- especially when it is the rotational weight that kills you on the big wheeled uni’s). That and there is a new touring handle on the way…
I have put in 2500km on my nimbus (old square taper hub) with t7 and have really noticed frame flex, been annoyed at the hassle of changing crank length (no dual hole square taper cranks out there), and while the airfoil/TA combo is good- with the new, and most importantly lighter nightrider and nimbus rims out there, the KH is a bit of a no brainer.
If money were no issue I would say that this is how I would rank the 36ers.
Nimbus Nightrider Pro ISIS
Nimbus Nightrider Pro (square taper)
The main reasoning is that the wheel is the most important. You want a Nightrider Rim (with braking surface), You will want a nightrider tire, and you will want 36 spokes. I don’t really see the hub/cranks/frame mattering as much, but between the KH and the Nimbuses…
The KH has a more narrow hub which will mean you will have less wobble in your ride. It also could mean it will make for a weaker wheel if not built right. It is plenty strong though, and as long as the wheelbuild is good it should be a strong wheel.
Cranks: I don’t think most riders will want the dual hole moments. They are so bulky and heavy…I wish I didn’t have to use them on my geared 36, but they are the only cranks I trust on the KH/Schlumpf hub. You will want lightweight isis cranks on your 36er (or lightweight qu-ax square taper cranks if you go the route of a square taper hub).
Brakes: Not really important, especially for beginners. Add that later if you feel you need it.
Handle: T7 vs Coker Pi Bar…I have never tried the Coker Pi Bar, but if it doesn’t hit your needs while riding, I would say it would allow for more options than the T7. The T7 is an alright handle as well.
Anyway, KH36 is nice, and the Nimbuses are nice. 36ers are great.
EDIT: Also…I guess I didn’t really answer the original poster’s question, but between the Coker and Coker V2 I would get a Coker with the street tire and a coker pi bar handle (if I was only going to order from coker and get a 36er) and start with 150s and also order 125s.
I don’t think there’s much of a difference. Seeing as the seatpost is the same on both, I can’t see how one would be “stiffer”.
I e-mailed coker, and this is what they had to say about the different post options:
“The Chromoly is stronger but weighs more with a shiny
appearance. The Aluminum seat post weighs less and has a brushed
I’d go with the CrMo. It’s just stronger, and I don’t think the weight matters.
If you want square taper cranks that have dual holes that may be modified, (cutting off the pressed on chain rings). Then, go to a trek dealer and ask for replacement cranks for 220’s… 127/152mm dual hole “dialed” cranks in aluminum, 120/140 steel “dialed” cranks for the lesser model.
Yes, pretty much as strong as anything else. Extra spokes in the wheel help, though a professional wheel build can make a 36-spoke wheel extremely strong as well. I kind of miss my Big One for MUni. I kept my older, 2002 Coker Deluxe from UDC, but I have little use for road riding ungeared anymore. For MUni the newer Big One was better equipped.