Cheap and light Muni build advice...

Hi due to recently being hit by a car and loosing the use of my left hand for the near future, I’ve been giving more and more thought to getting a Muni as I won’t be able to ride my DH bike.

I was wondering how much could I build a cheap Muni up for? I already have a 24" (36hole rim, pedals, seat, seatpost, seat clamp and tyres.

I won’t be doing any high drops or giving it too much abuse. But I do want it to use isis cranks.

I’m in the UK so shops for parts seem to be limited, but what is there available and what would be the best buy on a budget? (especially lighter parts) ideally I want quite short cranks too for speed and to work my legs harder! - what size cranks have people used with 24" munis?


Hey mate,
Muni is a great sport and something that will keep you challenged for a long time. If you are coming from a biking back ground I would go with a 26" muni instead of a 24. I think you would find a 24" a bit slow- especially if you are doing a mix of XC/DH riding. Put a magura hydraulic rim brake on a 26" and learn to use it and there will be nothing you can’t ride on it (ask a guy called brycer on the forums- he refurbish’s them and on sells them for about $80-$100.)

A more expensive braking option is the Mountainuni- disc brake set (but they only offer long crank sizes atm unfortunately)

I would suggest you look at getting a nimbus 26" muni like this one

Its cheap, strong, reliable and easily upgraded if you get hooked and want to pimp it. As for crank length- its an intensely personal thing and every man and his dog has an opinion on that. I’m in the short crank crowd and would never go back to long ones for what I do. If you want some options- upgrade the muni from the get go to the Kris Holm dual hole cranks 125/150mm. While you are finding your feet you can run the 150s and then once you are more confident swap out for the shorter option for a blissfully smooth and quick trail experience.

Also, the stock nimbus saddle is a bit curvy and not ideal for long rides in the saddle. The KH fusion Freeride saddle is flatter, has a channel in it for your sort nerve bits and generally a much nicer ride.

Hope that helps, If you need any more info just ask for it- the community here is pretty good at helping out new guys,


You sound like a DIYer with a few parts you want to use. The only specific parts that I am going to suggest are a Nimbus hub and Qu-Ax cranks.

The Nimbus hub is simple, strong and cheep, can’t go wrong there

Cheep Qu-Ax cranks are not the strongest cranks out there but can take respectable amount of abuse. The real advantage of the cheep cranks are that you can get a few different lengths to see what you like without braking the bank.

As any biker knows your wheels make the bike, just like on a Uni, your wheel (specifically your tire and rim) make the unicycle.

You are most likely going to want a wider tire on your MUni than on your bike but you don’t need a 3". I have been very happy with a Vredestein Bull Lock which is labeled as a 2.35 but measures out to almost exactly 2.5" on my 46mm rim.

You are also probably going to want a closer rim to tire width ratio than you would on a bike. Through experimenting I have found that most tires work best when they are between 1.5x and 1.25x the width of the rim, where as on a bike I am more likely to use a tire around 2x as wide a the rim. Trials bike rims are usually a good choice, though they are usually 32h (which isn’t much of a problem, since there are now cheep 32h hubs).

OK so if you follow my advice on rims it won’t be a real cheep project since you aren’t re-using many parts but you will end up with a very usable MUni.

Great advice guys, cheers!

The rim I’ve got is a 24" halo combat so it is quite a wide solid rim.

I think I’d prefer 24" because alot of the trails around me are very rutty and I love technical parts and also so that I could still do a bit of trialsy stuff and also so that it fits in the boot of my beloved mini! haha ( although I struggle with my trials uni so I’m not holding my breath!)

So Nimbus hub, how much should spokes be setting me back?

A 24 is better for really tech trails and doing trialsy stuff on the side of the trail. A bigger wheel will roll over stuff better and a 26x3 can handle anything that a 24, just a bit heavier, faster, and less manueverable w/ the same width tire.

The Halo rim is wide for a mtb but pretty narrow for a Muni. A narrower rim contributes to fold over and pinch flats, requiring more pressure. A wider rim also dampens out the bumps a bit. Even the Nimbus rim is a tad narrow in comparison to the KH, for example, but it’s a lot better than the Halo (if it’s the same 31.5mm as the 26") If all you have is a rim it would prob cost just as much to build one up around it as buy a complete Nimbus.

I’d go for either the stock Nimbus venture cranks or Qu-Ax light cranks or both since it’d be an less expensive way to see if you preffer 145 or 150mm. They’re both good for occational drops up to a couple feet, so they would be a good cheaper, lighter option to the KH Moments (but the double holes would be convenient).

I think it would be far too easy to loose sight of what I want to build up the 24" for which is just to try out Muni. i reckon I could get a Hub, spokes, wheelbuilding, cranks and frame for £80 which would mean I’d have a complete uni for alot less than buying a brand new one.

That way Im not spending a stupid amount of money on a unicycle taht I might not use much ( my trials and learner unis havent seen any use at all this year :confused: )