Changing Crank Arms

Hello hello…

Right now I’m riding a United 24 inch adult trainer. A gift that got me
into the sport, and my only uni so far (until I can afford some more!)
Right now the Uni has 150mm cranks, and I’d like to switch them for 127mm.
From what I’ve found through searching on the forum this will give me a
smoother, and noticeably quicker ride. I took a stroll through the
unicycle.com catalog and came across these: http://tinyurl.com/jeqv 127mm
Torker Cotterless Crank Arms. Before I go ahead and purchase them I’ve got
a few questions. Will switching to the 127mm be difficult to adjust to, and
what are the benefits/downfalls of this switch. How easy is it to make the
switch? Will I need a cotterless crank arm puller? I’d appreciate hearing
answers to these and anything else that comes to anyones mind. Thanks

Carney

Re: Changing Crank Arms

u’ll get many better answers than mine
i’m just aiming to be first
:stuck_out_tongue:

my experience in this field is limited to a single opportunity of getting onto a visiting 24" with 110mm cranks

when u get on the first time , it is WEIRD
there’s something wrong and u can’t explain it
u can ride tho
then u try n idle and that weirdly inexplicably wrong feeling returns, for a while
i’d say u’ll feel right at home in about 30mins absolute tops

if u’ve learnt how to ride a uni, learning to adjust to new cranks will be a cake-walk

for the tech-type stuff u’re gonna have to wait for the non-UTC people to get here

have fun!

Here is a little FAQ explaining how to remove and install cranks.
<http://londonunicyclingclub.ca/cranks.htm>

I would recommend using the Park CWP-5 crank puller rather than the blue handled Park CCP-2 crank puller. The blue handled one is less convenient to use on shorter crank arms because the pedal gets in the way of the long blue handle. To use the CWP-5 tool you’ll need an adjustable crescent wrench because it doesn’t have a built in handle.

Just make sure to get the cranks back on tight. If you ride with a loose crank you can damage the taper on the crank or the hub which will require you to replace either the crank or the hub (depending on which one suffered the damage). If you feel a loose crank during a ride get off the unicycle and walk until you can get the crank properly tightened.

Re: Changing Crank Arms

On Fri, 08 Aug 2003 14:03:35 GMT, “Carney Carney Kilian”
<carney_k@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Hello hello…

Hello hello Carney Carney!

Changing cranks is not difficult. I do it quite regularly, yet very
carefully and it takes me about 10 - 15 minutes. Don’t forget to
remove the nut before trying to pull the crank!

127 (or 125) mm is probably the most usual crank size for a 24" wheel.
As GILD said it will feel weird initially but for just riding on the
flat that will soon enough go away. Mounting, idling and other skills
that you may have developed on the 150 mm cranks may take some more
time to nail on the shorter cranks. And the 150’s are actually better
suited to off-road / rough terrain / steep inclines than the 127’s.

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict

I go a sort of ok speed on my Coker… - Roger Davies

I’m currently running 127’s on my 24 inch Stealth Torker. It didn’t take too long to get used to them, and they essentially give you a whole new uni. I recently did a 12 mile ride on mine…I could never do that with 150’s. The changing of the cranks is not big deal. Just be sure to remove the nut, use a crank puller, use plenty of grease, and tighten the new crank one very tight.

I would, however, reconsider your choice of cranks. I had one of these Torker cranks break on me with not much effort, or abuse, on my part. I never did replace it but if I were to, it would be with these:
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=165
I believe they are made much better.

Daniel