can so anyone please give me a breakdown of the changes to the KH20 models over the years. basically, for example, what would be different on a 2006 model to a current 2013 model? when did frames changes, hub changes etc etc…
thank you!
When Kris introduces a new model year he posts a thread listing the changes, I would suggest you go to his profile (danger_uni) go to the stats section, click on “find all threads started by user”, scroll through and click on any that appear to be about a new lineup.
Since you are going through all this trouble you might as well post the results of your search on this thread so others that are curious can easily see the evolution of the KH20.
Eric. I thought that you had done one of these a while back & went looking for it through the search function. I was very disappointed when it didn’t pop up.
As far as I know nobody has compiled a list of changes since the last update. I try to keep up on all the 36ers since that is more my area of interest.
2003- Black chromoly frame (made in Canada, w/brake mounts, 40mm bearings)
2004- Black chromoly frame (made in Taiwan, no brake mounts, 42mm bearings)
(These used the old KH 8-splined pinch bolt crankset)
2005- Blue 7005 aluminium frame (first gen, large reinforcement plate welded between crown and legs)
(Used KH-Onza 36 spline drivetrain and 42mm undrilled rims)
2006- slightly tweaked from '05 (very low profile reinforcement plate)
2007- two curled reinforcement gussets & knurled crown (still featured on current model)
(Introduction of KH Moment ISIS drivetrain, double bolt seatclamp, and 47mm drilled rims)
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Someone else feel free to add the later models.
Photos are hard to come by, but they do more explaining than descriptions alone. The biggest change, to my knowledge, was the shift from the old design black chromoly steel frames and pinch bolt drivetrain to the 2005 introduction of the familiar blue aluminium frames with KH-Onza cranksets. 2007 was the year that KH20’s spec became a stable winner, the only weakness was the 1st gen Moment hub (blue, steel hub, welded flanges, all eventually bent after prolonged use). Changes from then on were more subtle but it’s since been tweaked to a really impressive and virtually fail-proof standard.
I think it was 2008 or 2009 that the Moment hubs were revised to the more reliable aluminium shell design that exists 'til today. The frames at some point after 2008 received subtle changes such as the wide-tapered neck base welded onto the crown) to resist cracking better, longer necks, as well as a lower tyre clearance to accommodate for the rising popularity of flat tricks. Plus it looks much cleaner.
Then came the raw finish Double-Crown frame and the KH20 Flatland spec. The newest KH20 Trials with the Spirit cranks upgrade is a bargain for riders of all levels. I don’t think in any other sport you can get top-tier kit at such an affordable price, but also lasts years. Not to mention the unparalleled manufacturer-customer service. I’ve always thought these were something special that unicycling has that a lot of other extreme sports lack. This is coming from someone who doesn’t even ride a KH!
thank you…
a very informative write up…
so that would make this one, http://qc.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeImage?AdId=532464263&Keyword=kh20
a 2007, with the hub to avoid…
so now my decision is if i just order a new one, long neck or regular?
That looks like a factory-spec 2007 model, it’s still good. Frame, seat, and cranks are great. Hub and rim aren’t as strong as today’s offerings.
I forgot to mention the rims underwent changes at some point (maybe 2009?), from the standard straight-line spoke holes to the offset spoke holes. First glance, it’s not a big deal. But it actually transformed the rim in my opinion. Current KH rims as they stand now are the most sturdy 36h 19" rim. I’d even rather take a 2005/6 undrilled KH or a DX32 over the 2007 KH rim any day. Just my two pence.
yeh, that 2007 one isn’t a good enough deal to make it worthwhile… too close in price to a new one in my mind for a 6 year old uni, especially as the new ones have a few nice upgrades…
so i’m thinking ill just buy new… the kh20fl does still appeal a bit to me and i can get one. but means ordering internationally…
or i can buy the trials kh20 locally, but still can’t decide long or short neck…
Depends what you use it for and your height. If I were doing pure trials, I’d go for the standard neck. It would be more versatile for the rider’s height.
I have a KH20 long neck and is the unicycle that gets the most use. I am 5’8" and I fit comfortably on it no matter the crank length. If I were much shorter I’d consider the standard. I use mine for trials type jumping but also an all-around trick unicycle for use learning flatland skills and basic skills such as wheel walking etc. Raise the seat up, inflate the tire up and you can learn a lot of standard freestyle tricks on it too, esp with shorter cranks.
If I weren’t much interested in trials, and mostly interested in flatland/freestyle type riding I might go with the 125mm cranks. The 137s are a bit overkill I think. They offer great leverage and a nice target, but are a bit too choppy for things like one-footed riding. Doable but not as much fun as shorter cranks.
All around a great uni. It was costly but worth it IMO.
Well I’m just over 5’9". With a 34 inch crotch to floor (I think, that’s the best I could measure)
So I’m sure I could fit both. How high above the lowest point do you have your seat on the longneck model?
You will absolutely fit the long neck. It’s pretty low, maybe an inch or so when I do flatland type tricks, higher if I am using it for freestyle type tricks.
The point of the long neck is to keep the seat clamp out of the way if you are doing things like leg wraps etc.
I also think it looks nicer.
If I were you I’d go with the long neck. I think it’s the same price as the standard.
Yeh I agree it looks better… The only thing that appeals with the short neck is when I’d let friends or kids have a try on it the longneck may be limiting how small they can be.
Rather then letting that compromise your decision you could just to buy a spare cheapo learners cycle if you’re worried about that. Remember, the perfect number of unicycles is n+1 when in is the number of unicycles you currently have. (note that for some n isn’t an integer 
)
Yeh probably. But I was thinking more when I just take it places and friends want a go.
Does anyone know what saddle comes on the newest 2013 ones? The website says fusion slim. The catalog says fusion street.
Don’t know, but you can probably choose on UDC.
If I had to do it again I’d get the slim. The street is fine but with a 20 the seat just gets in the way.
But I use a street on all my unis, and I have no complaints
Standard is street I believe, but you can probably get slim instead.
Well I think I’d prefer the street. I’ll call municycle.ca and ask them what the one they’ve got in stock has on it.
So true!
So kris himself got back to me.
Kh20 now come with the slim saddle. Some older stock will still have the street saddle.
He says it’s to make it easier for people with small hands to grip the seat when doing hops etc.
It’s been said before, but it’s a great sport when one of the leading equipment designers gets back to you personally or responds to posts on a forum.