Carbon rims

Does anyone know if you can get 36" carbon rims? :slight_smile:

I really doubt that you can.

Yeah I agree but it would make for an awesome speed machine :slight_smile:

Most of us would run them if they were available.

Hmm… I wouldn’t touch a carbon rim of any type with a 10 foot pole, but perhaps I’m in the minority…

Especially on a unicycle.

I know nothing about carbon rims. :thinking: Please explain your thoughts. thank you.

General Info

Older or cheap carbon rims would be scary, but a purpose built unicycle rim would be very strong.

They are fantastically expensive though, and the market for super-high-end unicycle parts is small.

Thanks Juggleaddict for the links. Seeing a rise in carbon rim raised the question about maintenance/durability when use in different conditions.

I found an interesting article about carbon rim use in cyclocross. Not as intense as rock gardens but still an interesting view on how they can perform (the tire being far from providing a lot of protection…).

And I also found an article about carbon rim experience written mid-2013 and a 6 months review from 2015.

Thank you for the links. Spent the morning reading and this is a “Love em or Hate em” topic it seems. Very interested how this thread unwinds. :smiley:

I think the “Love/Hate” relationship comes mainly from the price tag: you tend to expect more from more expensive stuff :smiley:

I am also curious to hear from some riders that build Flansberrium muni around a Nextie carbon rim (except if Nextie does also Aluminum rims too…).

I think if you’re looking to reduce the rotational weight of a 36", the best thing to do would be to develop an easy and reliable way of going tubeless. 36" tubes are beefy!

From what I’ve seen, due to the current ways of packing rims in with foam and gorilla tape, 29er tubes/FOSS tubes are about the same weight as going tubeless. Weight can always be lost in as many ways as possible!

Not sure I’d trust a carbon 36er rim - maybe a 700c bacon slicer?

I would have no problem riding a carbon 36" rim, I would have a problem buying one though. $$$

A thinner (alloy) rim and smaller/lighter tire would be far more beneficial in my opinion.

FWIW, I’m going to school for composites and may look into building a rim as a final project. But I’m still against riding it. :roll_eyes:

Carbon is way better than it used to be. I’ve been riding a Carbon rim (Derby with AM layup) on my 27,5" Muni since last spring. I saved like 75g (wooooo!), but the rim feels stiffer and I love the feel of my uni now. Carbon rims most of the time are better for Tubeless setups too, mine never burped!

I was a little worried about strength at the beginning of the season, but I’ve been going a bit crazy on it at the end. Still strong, no dents, no nothing. Jacob Spera has been trying to kill his too (a Derby too but with the DH layup) and he’s still stuck with it. It just wont break!

I’ve also crushed bike frames with a sledge hammer, I can tell carbon is strong. I was really impressed.

Give me a quote for shipping and I’ll gladly test it for you :smiley:

I thought the move from the stealth to the stealth 2 was due to the stealth being a little weak at the knees so to speak… though mine was still perfectly true when I switched it over.

I think a 36er carbon rim wouldn’t really save any, or much, weight, but it would be much stiffer, which would hopefully prevent spokes from breaking as often and just feel better to ride, as Jacob mentioned.

A lighter tire is definitely the way to go for weight savings.

I think it’s all out of reach until carbon rims become a standard and start dropping in price… just like geared unicycle hubs did :stuck_out_tongue:

Interesting thoughts from everybody there and I have learnt some good stuff. Can anyone recommend a lighter tyre and/or if running tubeless is possible then? I heard that using FOSS inner tubes made you more prone to pinch flats?


Hilarious! :stuck_out_tongue: :smiley:

The type of tube won’t directly affect your likelihood of getting pinch flats. If your rim does bottom out then theoretically a thicker tube might help, but you shouldn’t be bottoming your rim out anyway.

Foss tubes are a bit more fussy to install and replace than rubber tubes. They also can’t be repaired with a standard patch kit. The upside is that they’re light and have better puncture resistance.