Can I convert a club 24 to a muni??

I have a club 24 that I’m learning on and plan on getting a muni. when my skill level gets better.
Can I replace the wheel or just the tire on the club 24 with a muni wheel or tire? Is it just a matter of the bearing clamps fitting the right size bearing? Or is that just a waste of money cause the frame isn’t strong enough?

I have just replied to your other question.
This is my club 24" with a Schwable Crazy Bob 24x 2.35 fitted.
There is a 5mm gap at the side of the tyre, and a 4mm gap at the crown.

The 73mm wide Club frame will limit your tyre choice to the Halo Ception 24x2.6 for Muni.
Also, the rim width is only 26mm internal.
If you found a wider frame to fit a tyre beyond 2.6, it may not sit on the rim correctly anyway.

I have been told that the Halo Ception 24x 2.6 fits the club frame OK.
You can swap the tyre only.
Or save up for a Nimbus Muni, Nimbus Oracle, or go ballistic and wait for the 26" Oregon replacement.

From my experience club unicycles are great for learning how to ride and hold up well to crashes but for muni you’d be better off get something like a nimbus 26" muni(26" have endless tire choices) or a kh if money isn’t an issue. You really need a stronger wheel, cranks, frame, and a comfy saddle to not be held back in muni. I’d leave the club alone and save for a good muni, you won’t regret it.

I think it would be OK for learning to ride offroad. You would need to use a somewhat smaller tire than most folks use, and the cranks+hub aren’t the stronger ISIS type, but I don’t think it would be an issue until you get good enough to start doing really rough stuff.

I have the same Nimbus cromo hub, and weaker cranks, on my practice unicycle, and it’s been fine for doing things like hopping up and down curbs.

The club frame itself is plenty strong enough, but it doesn’t accept a 42 mm bearing that you would need for an “off the shelf” ISIS muni wheel. The 3" tire would not fit the club frame anyway. By the time you spent money on a new wheel, tire, and cranks it will add up to about the cost of a new Nimbus muni.

The normal club setup will get you gravel grinding and doing very lite muni. Drop the pressure just a bit to absorb some of the impact. You want it spongy but you don’t want the rim to get close to the ground if you throw your weight on it a bit. The weak point on the club is the (single walled) rim. The cranks aren’t particularly strong, but the hub can take it. As long as you’re not abusive with it, it will serve you well for some smooth singletrack and gravel.

I wouldn’t even bother changing the tire out. For beginner level muni you really don’t need a super aggressive tire like the Duro.

You may also find that the seatpost clamp needs to be tighter to prevent the saddle from twisting. I put a lot more torque on the saddle when I ride off-road, or at least I did when I started.

How much you can really push it will largely depend on your weight. If you’re over 200 lbs I would stay away from any muni with a club unless you like tacos. If you’re 120 lbs, have at it.

Overall, you get the best deal buying complete cycles. I would probably ride what you have until you’re ready to upgrade. Having built a lot of my unicycles from scratch, I can tell you it’s not cost-effective for what you get, though what you get is exactly what you want. Just know that when upgrading a walmart bike (or entry level unicycle), it will be difficult to find part compatibility and will be very expensive (compared to the price of the cycle) for even marginally better components. In the end, they were never intended to be upgrade-able.

Sure you can ride your club off-road, but that doesn’t mean that it would be easy to make it into a dedicated off-road uni. My suggestion is to give it a try, you probably won’t break anything on your first few outings and it will give you an idea of what you would like to change before spending money.

The good news is that your unicycle has one of the best cotterless hubs on the market, but as others have said the weak parts are the rim and cranks. The rest of the unicycle is no-nonsense decent (but not great) parts that can take some abuse from someone learning the off-road art.

If you learn how to maintain a wheel and keep it trued and tensioned the wheel should be fine. Those cranks on the other hand will likely develop some slop over time if ridden hard off-road. I went through a lot of united cranks on my first unicycle, once there is a bit of movement they are shot, unlike aluminum cranks that can be re-tightened. If you need to replace the cranks quality aluminum ones will last much longer than steel. The softer metal conforms better to the hub interface and is less prone to movement.

By the time you start breaking stuff you will most likely have a much better idea of what you are looking for in a off-road unicycle and might find it easier to just buy one complete the way that you want it.

This used to be a club 24…changed one part at a time.

I know you asked about tires and some very good advice has been posted already. I was in the boat as you about a year ago and gradually upgraded old chromey to do muni before getting a nimbus muni. I think what made as big a difference as the tire, in terms of being able to ride over bumps, was getting better pedals/shoes so you can keep some torque going when your pedals are in the 12-6 position.

There are lots of good threads on shoes and pedals. Shin guards are good idea once you get knarlier pedals. Your shins will thank you.

Good luck and just get out and hit the trails. I spent a lot time trying to learn to hop and stuff before hitting the trails and you really don’t need those skills right off the bat. It all gets better with more saddle time.

Thanks for all the replies. I’m going to keep the club stock and buy a muni when I think my skill level is good enough to hit some trails.

You can do a lot more than lite muni. Basically you can do all kinds of riding, but you’ll want to limit the big hops and drops.

All of my older Munis have square taper hubs, and all are still useable. Mostly what my older ones lack are wide frames to fit wide tires. But my nice 29" is still quite fun to ride on all sorts of trails where I roll, and don’t pound it very hard.

Muni was getting big for a few years before we had easy access to splined hubs. Even my old Coker, which is the one I’m more likely to use on trails, still has its original square taper axle.

The OP has already said he’s going to leave his Club 24 as-is and save up for a proper Muni. But he can still take the Club out on the trails and have lots of fun. Just avoid drops over 1’ and big hops.

This is good advice. When using a “regular” tire for Muni, you don’t have a lot of leeway on tire pressure. Basically you need to make sure you have enough in there to keep the rim from hitting the ground. With our old 1.75" tires (the standard size back in the pre-Muni/Trials/Street days), I still had to run mine at 50+psi on the rocky trails. That just made for more of a challenge. :slight_smile:

Later, when I graduated to a 2.4", and then a 3.0 x 24" tire, those same trails got a lot easier.