Buying that first 36er

I was going to buy this 36er:

http://www.unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=1131

Are there alternatives that anyone would suggest?
I thought ISIS cranks would be best for perhaps upgrading later – are they?
I learnt on 152mm cranks and thought they would be ok for my first 36er – am I correct?
I expect to be riding on flat with some gradients – do I have to assess crank length relevant to the expected gradients - and buy spare ones?
I am not sure what the best pedals are but assume DX aluminium is good with the steel pins – is this right?
I was getting the T7 handle and assume this would be better than just settling for the seat handle alone – is this a big improvement?
Can anyone comment on the tyre profile – is the Nimbus Nightrider tyre good?
Is there anything I have missed?

All feedback gratefully recieved

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Whilst it might not seem like that at first, it is possible to ride up or down pretty much anything on a coker with 150mm cranks, they’re good starter cranks for sure. ISIS ones are where things are heading now, so again, probably the right choice.

The metal pedals are good for pretty much any riding. Some people like plastics for learning on, personally I reckon you fall off so much more with plastic learner pedals that the fact they hurt slightly less isn’t worth it. I’d rather fall onto metal pedals once than plastic pedals 20 times.

T7 handle is a preference thing. Lots of people like them, some people don’t like them. You can always swap it out at a later date though.

Joe

Everything Joe said, and then some:

I don’t have a Nightrider myself but I’ve heard only good things about it.

You mentioned “some” gradients, so you might want to consider a brake. Not necessary though.

About the seat: The Nimbus gel saddle is mentioned as default. Some people prefer that seat over a Kris Holm Fusion Freeride (for distance), but most riders would pick the KH when given the choice. I haven’t checked but I think they’re about equal in price? Especially if you tend to get “lame parts” during long rides, the KH is better IMHO. UDC would most likely swap it at little or no additional cost.

Thank’s for your input - especially the cranks and the pedals. Took a look at your photos as well. Brilliant!! Looks like you guys have a lot of fun :slight_smile:

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Excellent!! I thought I would get on the road then asses how I handle things on gradients with a view to getting a brake, or not. Yeah, I will certainly discuss the saddle at time of purchase, thanks for the pointer.

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I made a really long post comparing the available 36ers in this thread.

I am not the biggest fan of the T7 but it is way better than no handle at all.

150mm cranks are great for learning on, doing XC type riding and just using when you are sore and tired. I would get a pair of 125s as well though as they are much nicer for riding on the road once you get used to the wheel size.

If you ask UDC they might let you swap out the cranks for a pair of dual hole moments. They are very convenient and popular, and will also save you the cost of buying 125’s later.

I would agree with you if it was true but not when dual holes are £52.00 and Qu-Ax 125mm cranks are £14.00.

Thanks Eric P for the info and the concise list of 36er details in your link - very useful.

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Appreciate your feedback. Hmmm looks like I will get on the road with 150 cranks, standard as they come, then I can assess this aspect when I am on the road, bearing in mind what has been said in this post.

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