So, what would you use for parts?
Caveats:
No Ti
No Customs (off the shelf)
Minimum 2.5 tire
Isis preferred, but not a game killer
Preference for low weight over high strength
KH26 frame, KH or try-all rim, KH adjustable seat post, KH 1bolt clamp, KH150/125 cranks, odyssey trail mix pedals, Duro Wildlife 26x3, KH/Schlumpf hub, KH fusion freeride saddle.
hub and tire are not exactly lightweight 
I have a 26x3 MUni and love it but think it is way to heavy to really consider it an XC machine.
If I were to build up a XC specific 26" MUni I think I would go with:
Sun Rhynolight XL rim
Continental Gravity 2.3 tire
lightweight tube
Nimbus ISIS hub
DT spokes
Qu-Ax 125mm cranks
KH frame would be sweet but Nimbus frame if you want to save some money.
Aluminum seatpost
KH freeride saddle with GR4 style handle
brake of your choice.
I have tried shorter cranks on heavier wheels and it just does not work that well but as you shed weight you can go down in crank length. I don’t really think that you would end up using the 150mm hole too much on a set of KH dual hole cranks with a light setup.
Anyone know the weight of the KH/Sclumpf hub?
I think it’s a little over three pounds. 1400g or something like that.
This is what I also recommend – except I’d stick with the KH rim. I’d also add a handlebar.
corbin
I’ve thought of building a 26". I’d start w/ a LX, w/ a Kenda Kinetics 2.6" and gradually switch parts to that setup, starting w/ the wheel, except a squar tapered UDC hub and Pro Wheel cranks for less $ and weight.
I think splined is prob overkill over a good cotterless setup for me (No drops, few hops, but as tech as I can roll it)
I weigh 200# and I didn’t say there’d be no drops, just not crazy drops 
I think I need splined 
I’d go for a KH frame, but I want the brakes to line up without modifications.
How about Koxx vs Nimbus for the frame?
Is a Ti hub worth an additional $400 to save a 1#?
How about some tire suggestions? I’m thinking of something in the 2.5" range, nice volume, but single ply sidewall.
As for cranks, what do folks think of the QuAx chromoly 150mm or maybe the new Nimbus alloy cranks? Other lightweight, yet strongish cranks?
Is the Sun Rhynolight XL rim wide enough?
What’s a GR4 style handle?
Everybody has different ideas of what cross country means to them, maybe you should describe the kind of trails you will be riding this on to give us a better idea of what you expect the uni to be able to do. What are you main goals for the uni? Do you care more about strength, weight, cost?
KH is releasing a 26" frame and rim in late april/early may. You won’t have any alignment issues if you are willing to wait. clickity
I think the titanium hub is more for bragging rights then as practical weight savings. If you have an extra $400 to throw at this unicycle it couldn’t hurt.
The Rhynolight XL is 29.2mm wide according to the SUNringle website Should be OK for a 2.3-2.5" tire. A wider rim is generally more stable but can make tires more sensitive to camber. The Rhynolight is known as a good light wide and strong rim that is relatively cheap in the MTB world.
Another good option for rims if you want to go wider would be the Echo Urban 40 mm front rims. I have the 46mm version on my 26 and love and it feels very solid but it is kind of hefty. The 40mm version is about 180g heavier than the Rhynolight and the 47mm version is another 120g heavier than the 40mm. I would stay away form Try-All trials rims based on comments on trials forums.
I meant GB4. his handles look like this:
the GB4 website
I missed the KH 26 frame discussion 
So I guess that’s what I’ll do, might spice it up with a Ti hub, though what I really want is a Guni, but $1350 is a whole lot money. If it were $750, I could probably justify it…
So, a KH 26 frame and rim it is, now I just wait 
Though…
KH 26 Frame with a TI hub (($669) Lightest
Nimbus 26 frame with a TI hub ($515) Light
KH 26 Frame with a Nimbus/KH hub ($271) Lightish
Nimbus 26 frame with a Nimbus/KH hub ($107) Not so light
So $550 to save 20oz or 10% of the total weight assuming an average weight of 15lbs.
Makes ya wonder, yah know?
I think life is too short to stay unschlumpfed. If you can afford it get it, you (probably) won’t regret it.
You just sold your KH29 which I think is pretty close to the perfect XC unicycle so I am curious how you want this 26" to differ from the KH29.
Lighter?
Stronger?
The same but slightly smaller?
What are your goals for this unicycle?
My guess is something stronger and beefier since you are saying you are going to go with the KH rim. It is going to be wide strong and heavy, which makes me wonder about why you are considering the titanium hub…
But I don’t think a 29 is a great muni, it does not handle technical riding well, it just places the rider too far off the ground. Where I live there is a lot of roots and rocks, the 29 just didn’t have enough tire volume/surface to provide a good feel. Not to mention, they suck for hopping!
At this point I ride a 09’ Nimbus 24 muni, it’s a nice ride, really nothing wrong with it, I just want something a little faster/lighter. I did have a 09’ Nimbus 26 muni which I sold, so maybe I’m regretting that…
What I want is something a little taller, a little lighter, which is why I was going to a 26 vs keeping the 29. An aluminum frame, Ti hub, and light components could be the ticket. I’d really love a guni, but that’s for some day in the future…
I think the Ti hub is the single easiest way to drop uni weight, but the cost is prohibitive.
Yes
Why not lose weight in your seat with a Derail base, and a Thompson post. For that matter what about one of those spiffy unicycleman Carbon Fibre/Aluminum frames.
I think that if weight is more important than ultimate strength, you might consider the UDC Wide Hub, and the Venture Cranks. It is bound to be lighter than ISIS, and might be strong enough.
I don’t know that I would go with the KH rim for what you intend. It will be a heavy rim, and probably overkill. Losing weight at the rim is more important than at the hub. If I wanted a hill climbing machine then every gram would count; but, if it’s for maneuverability, and agility then a light rim, tire, tube would be more important.
The KH rim would not make sense if you want to save weight. I am guessing that it will be comparable to my echo rim, wide, really strong HEAVY, and probably more expensive than most other rim options. I have heard of people drilling 1" holes in DX32s for trials bikes and bring them down to close to 500g. My echo rim is 860g for comparison. That is almost the weight savings of a titanium hub but in an area of the unicycle where weight matters most.
The KH rim would make sense if you want a bomb-proof all mountain/down hill rig but not so much if you want lighter weight and aren’t going huge.
I read somewhere whrere Kris said he was thinking of making a 26" again, but I never heard anything more than that. Any idea where there’s more info? Full uni? Parts? Specs?
Edit: I saw the link. Is there any more info?
I royally suck at hopping, so the only drops I do are ones I can roll, plus I’m only 150 #'s 
I read a testamonial somewhere of a guy who weighed 180, I think, and used a UDC cotterless hub, w/ Prowheel cranks and do drops up to 2’. The cranks would last ~ 1.5 yrs and the hub ~ 2 yrs. He’d been doing Muni for 4 years at the time and due for another hub. Roger Davies has done drops of 4 or 4.5’ on a trials to flat concrete w/ that hub w/ no failures, but he’s pretty light (140, I think).
If you have never destroyed a crank arm on a cotterless, then you might not realize how bad it sucks to walk out. Worse is how the crank arm gradually wears away and start to shift and squeak. Splined cranks were created for a reason. I have a very heavy riding style and I way a lot. I’ll always take a splined if I can get it. In fact, I’ll e making my next one a Ti hub 