building a 7-8 stair set today!

Just got all the goodies from Home depot, and I’ll be making it shortly! Pics and details to follow! :):smiley: :sunglasses:

Sweet…I imagine that you are going to be taking your 36er up those steps.:slight_smile:

Well, I was thinking about riding my BC down it also! :stuck_out_tongue:

Please make a tutorial, or film the process and include what you bought, and if possible, how you assembled it. I’m trying to make a 5-6 stair, But I want it to be durable, and i’m not sure how.

I thought about the doing the same thing! It would give me a chance to learn how to do steps since farms don’t have steps I could make my own!

Yeah I’ve taken a few pics but won’t have time to video tape a tutorial. Supplies used are:

2 pieces: 2"x8"x7’
7 pieces: 3/4"x9"x3’
28 pieces: brackets to support each step (4 per step)
wood screws.

Stringers are not notched to retain more strength. Since the steps are 3’ across, I will likely have to run another support beam down the underside if the center point. Since I’ll have an additional 2" running at the bottom of the entire length of each stringer, a 2x4 should do the trick! :slight_smile:

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2.JPG

Oh, and each end of the stringers will be cut horizontal to be flush with the top and ground surface. The top will have a piece added at 3’x3’x1", so it can lay flush on top of a 48" high platform, whether solid structure or pallets, while also securing the stair set to the platform.

You need to add cross supports diagnally to the back to prevent the stairs from racking. The support brackets do not look like they extend far enough or are strong enough to prevent lateral force as you climb from folding the stairs over like a house of cards.

Nevermind I didn’t know you were attaching it to a platform, thought they were free standing.

It doesn’t seem like the height to length ratio of each stair is ideal. Most steps that I jump down are about a 1:2 ratio in that respect. For example, the measurements that I got from my favourite stair set, and what we used for the stairs at EUC/Wunschkonzert were 15cm high and 30cm long, or about 6 inches high and a foot long. Whenever I find stairs that differ from this ratio, it is always really uncomfortable to jump down them, even if you would think it should be easier since they aren’t quite that long or something.

this stairset is not looking very sturdy.

  1. you have no lateral support as mtnjeffe said
  2. you have no twisting support in the steps area… when you are in the middle, the stairs will sway left and right.
  3. i don’t like your brackets
  4. the 2x4’s used for steps will bow if its more than 2 feet wide, and i’m hoping it is.

the general build for a stair is 6" height and 8" length…
his stairs will be fine
i’ve jumped stairs that were 10" by 1"
8" is the minimum for length. it has to be, do not make them skinnier than that.

That’s what the center support is for. I think it will be more than sufficient, especially given my 142 lb weight., and with the Uni maybe 155 lbs. There will not be a lot of force or “bouncing” weight as I hop up each step either. There will also be long screws going in through the sides of each step. The other option would be to cover the bottom with a 3’x7’x1" piece which would more than stabilize the stair set. :slight_smile:

I don’t think you understand what the others are saying. Your design does not include any lateral support. While it looks plenty strong for vertical forces (such as hopping), should there be any horizontal force (such as from a side gap or a botched hop), the entire set may end up twisting or folding.

Conventional stair sets (with notched stringers) support horizontal forces when the stairs are tacked down with multiple screws on each side. This creates virtual triangles between the stringers, and everyone knows how wonderful triangles are in supporting structures.

Your set, however, has but rectangles between the stringers. We’re recommending you add some support between the stringers that creates at least one, and preferably more, effective triangles to prevent the folding effect.

Terry, Stairs are always made with notches in the sides(like a zigzag pattern) with the steps mounted on top. Then you can fasten through the top of the rungs into the side, much sturdier. I agree with other posters that your design is sketchy. I don’t want you to hurt yourself when these fail:(

Problem with cutting notches is that the 8" sides would have only about 2" of un-notched wood remaining at the bottom, making the stringers very likely to snap at each of the lowest points. I would have to go buy new stringers still at 2"x7’, but would need 12" wide instead of 8" so after notching I would still have 6" solid wood left along the bottom.

I guess I could also “sandwich” each stringer with slats for insurance. I like this tutorial:

http://www.rd.com/advice-and-know-how/stepbystep-pictures-and-instructions-to-build-deck-stairs/article112711.html

And this is a way not to have to notch the wood:

This is what you need to do to make it sturdy. Just use some 4x4’s for the back support.

We care about you, Terry, and are trying to help you to push your retirement date later.:slight_smile:

Yeah that looks sturdy, but don’t you think three stringers would be more than string enough? I’m making the stair about 30" wide, instead of 36", so it’s fairly narrow, so three stringer should be fine. Also, those in the pic look maybe 12" wide. Other thing is, my jig saw doesn’t cut deep enough for a 2" thick piece, and neither does my circular saw. I need a new one anyway, so maybe I can buy a new one that has a bigger diameter blade for deeper cuts. This should be good:

The other thing is that this has to be “portable”, so I need it as lightweight as possible, while still maintaining sufficient strength.

I like the basic idea in the picture although it’s probably a bit more involved than you bargained for.

Hand saw.

Yes, much more involved! :astonished: And yes, the hand saw is used to finish the remainder of each notch cut; the circular is used for the initial cut, which stops about an inch before the end so you don’t over shoot it. Then you complete it with the hand saw for more accuracy. :slight_smile:

Maybe I could just make a few of these and use pallets to make each set higher? This way there is no diagonal weakness and each set is firmly flush on the ground. My original idea was to use only pallets, stacking them in a stair-like formation, but it would just take so many I abandoned that idea. This method would require a lot less. If I made three of these, or 6 stairs total, I would only need pallets for the second two sets. Either that or just make square platforms to put them on.

steps.jpg