Braus Carbon 36” - Best Build Approach?

Unicycles and Equipment
1

Hello hive mind :wave: :honeybee: :brain:

I can fully recognise that this forum has been on a bit of a build-carbon-wheel focus, and this post / question is more of my general musing rather than a project I’m going to start funding or pursuing now (but I’d really like to, if I can bank-wise :nerd_face:)

So - cutting to the chase:

I am basically checking if the main benefit of using a Braus rim is to achieve a light wheel. And therefore all components should be likewise focused on being light.

I was very much drawn to, and tempted to make a copy of this unicycle build (which appears to sadly be off the market now :cry:)

And so far I’ve seen that the parts people use for this are:

  • QUAX Q-Axle 32h CNC hub
  • Braus Rim (of course)
  • QUAX RGB Frame
  • And the obligatory Q-axle cranks.
  • King George Ultimate
  • 29er Stretched Tube*
    (*although I believe I’ll be able to get hold of presta 36” tubes {~300g} and there’s even a 90g one in the works so I’ve heard… but perhaps too light for uni-duty)

This is essentially focused on being very, very light. And my understanding of the benefits from this are:

Stiffness
Responsive Wheel
Quick and Speedy

But there’s the 100mm hub and the inboard disk, making for a possibly weaker wheel build, and the all aluminium construction of the hub making for a weaker than steel hub.

When it comes to rotational weight - especially on a 36er, in order of most important to least:

1. Tyre
2. Rim
3. Spokes
4. Hub

I am putting hub last as it is closer to the centre of what’s rotating - as from my limited understanding, is that in some ways the hub doesn’t have that much impact on the rotational weight attributed to a wheel. But clearly it is still “there”.

Am I right?

My question shifts to say using the Nimbus 125 Disc 32h hub. It’s a good 400-500g heavier but it would from my understanding build a better wheel from the spoke angle :triangular_ruler:

Would this still be a responsive wheel or would this be a bit of a contradicted build approach?.. Meaning - using carbon but with a steel “heavy” hub is just silly?

I know there’s the 100mm no-disc Nimbus 32h if you can find stock - and with that you could go symmetrical and use KH cranks. But again it’s heavier than the Q-axle.

So my longwinded post is basically asking:

Should one only consider the Braus rim as a component in a light-as-light-can-be build? :nerd_face::pray:

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2

I’ve been using my Nextie 36er mainly for off-road riding and my regular 36er with stealth rim and original, heavy version NR tire for road riding. I’ve always found the heavier wheel to have an almost flywheel effect which seems to create almost effortless forward motion. The heavier wheel is really only noticeable during headwinds or steeper inclines.

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3

I can totally relate to this. It’s not that I’m in any way anti-heavy wheels. In fact I like them and a 36er with that forward momentum is very stable and in a way what makes 36ers, 36ers.

I am however also curious about the ride experience of a very light wheel. And I want to know what carbon rides like.

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4

I don’t think it is off the market. The owner is simply not really reactive. BTW, he didn’t want to send it as it would be a big package. Pick-up only, near Lyon, France.

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5

I was told via DM it was with someone for test riding and will likely sell.

Oh yes - I know that it was collection only - I was always willing to fly to Lyon and collect. I’ve wanted to visit CDK and we were wanting to go to France for ages.

But it seems it’s going to / has been sold to a friend.

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6

I rode that exact 36" setup and is responsive as a skinny 29". The spoke angle is not a problem at all, unless your spokes are bad thighten.

It has far less freewheel effect than a heavier 36er. It seems a fast uphill wheel, it is a great XC wheel, it is a average trail wheel. Due to his light-weight you should mind holes, bald stones, roots and every difficult terrain. You could easily slow down and choose your path and than get to speed again, but you can’t push faster and ride through everything like a fat tire or a heavy flywheel (you can somewhat try to ride that way with low saddle, grippy shoes + pedals and strong knees).

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