Blades in or straight on a MUni frame around a 3.0 gazz?

Hi,

  1. I looked at my suzue hub and then looked at how wide the Gazz 3.0 tire is. Does the suzue hub really allow enough clearance for the fork blades to clear the sides of the 3.0 and then come straight down and meet the Suzue hub?

  2. If not, can I have the blades turned in slightly to meet the hub? Does this create any strength or flex issues? This assumes the crown is wider than the hub. Trying to understand this stuff…

Heres a really weird question:
3) Can you have the blades slightly curve around the tire as it leaves the crown and then curve towards the tire and then line up with the hub at the bottom? Was that clear…?

Thanks

workin the maze.

about question # 3)yes,ive seen this done before,its like a "horse shoe"style or as the bicycle industry calls it S-stays.

hey,do you have any prototype photos yet? (we know you must)quit dangleing this corrot in front of me(ha ha)…have you thought about a color yet?

Jagur,

The carrot will remain there… This is a prototype. The builder is a bike frame builder and this project intrigued him. I will post photos when it’s completed.

Funny you should ask about the color. I am taking suggestions.

The wheel and spokes are black. I decided to add a Magura brake finally - kids just will eat more pbj’s for a lot longer.:wink:

But from the pix on unicycle.com the Magura brake is a light red.
I would like the color to coordinate with that. Any suggestions,
oh, and I forgot about the green miyata seat with a black roach air seat.

Still looking for more responses to the frame questions, however.

Workin the maze.

Re: Blades in or straight on a MUni frame around a 3.0 gazz?

On Sat, 4 May 2002 00:36:51 -0500, teachndad
<teachndad.4461b@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote:

>Heres a really weird question:
>3) Can you have the blades slightly curve around the tire as it leaves
>the crown and then curve towards the tire and then line up with the hub
>at the bottom? Was that clear…?
Isn’t this a mild form of what is coined an “ears” frame design?
Sounds doable to me but I’m not at all a frame expert.

Klaas Bil

“To trigger/fool/saturate/overload Echelon, the following has been picked automagically from a database:”
“BVD, ISPE, Nerd”

Here’s a pic of a frame I started drawing quite a while back. Is this what you are refering to?

Angling the blades inward would allow the cranks to also lean in and reduce the pedal separation distance (Q-factor?).

Plus - With the pedals closer to one another there should be less wobble associated with wide tires and frames.

Minuses - Custom bent cranks would be needed to get them closer to the frame. The tire would need to be deflated for removal if the frame is custom fit to specific tire/rim (minor distraction). If this is done to too much of an extreme, an ankle biter might be the result.

Doug

wrapframe.jpg

I really can only provide input as far as saying that the 2nd situation you described (frame blades come out at an angle) is probably the one you want to avoid. This causes the blade to not be loaded in the axial direction… ever. Which means that it will always be seeing bending loads. This is rough on the frame and could be rough on your bearings and axle. Believe it or not, in this configuration, the bearings will always see a load greater than your wait while doing seated riding. Just my opinion, whatever that’s worth.
-gauss

I doubt that bending the frame SLIGHTLY in either direction will have serious consequences.
-David Kaplan

>I doubt that bending the frame SLIGHTLY in either direction will have serious consequences.

You are right. I just did a quick calculation for a one inch offset over 12 inches. The aditional stress caused by this situation is miniscule, The moments that exist in this direction are significant, but on second thought I don’t think that they are transmitted to the bearing. I would like to do a little better with this answer because I hate to give shoot from the hip advice two times in a row, but I am getting really hosed by a take home final right now.
-gauss
p.s. I meant “weight” before.

Doug,

Your drawing is a little different than what I had in mind. I was actually thinking of a flat crown but it burps out similar to yours and then goes down. I didn’t consider minimizing the Q factor. I was hoping to bring both the blades down parallel to each other after rounding around the tire.

I found out today that the suzue hub I have isn’t wider than a 3.0 Gazz. I’ll probably end up doing what Chris Reeder did and crimp in the blades on the inside. Still working out this problem though.

Hey Gauss,

Please come back for your full analysis.

Thanks everyone for responding. It really HELPS.:slight_smile:

Work the maze.

What about using one big stiff fork blade only? Like they do on the Cannondale suspension forks?

Re: Blades in or straight on a MUni frame around a 3.0 gazz?

On Sat, 4 May 2002 19:44:19 -0500,
gauss <gauss.45n9y@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote:

> I really can only provide input as far as saying that the 2nd situation
> you described (frame blades come out at an angle) is probably the one
> you want to avoid. This causes the blade to not be loaded in the axial
> direction… ever.

Err, actually they’ll be loaded axially all the time the unicycle seat is
loaded. They might not be 100% purely axially loaded very often, but then
neither is any part of any unicycle frame, so I’m not sure why you think
this is so terrible.

> Which means that it will always be seeing bending loads.
> This is rough on the frame and could be rough on your bearings
> and axle.

Why? Why is flexural stress more onerous than axial stress? How does the
element of metal know that its compression is down to flexure of the whole
component rather than uniform compression?

> Believe it or not, in this configuration, the bearings will
> always see a load greater than your wait while doing seated riding.

Can you elucidate what it is you’re concerned about? The bearings in
every unicycle that is ridden see a load greater than the statuic weight
the rider applies to the saddle. If the bearings are approipriately
specced this is not a problem. If the bearings are inappropriate it might
be a problem regardless of what weight they get.

I also think there’s an incompatibility in your structure. If the fork
blades resist the eccentricity by bending (which is what you are concerned
about early in the posting) then the bearings could be purely readially
loaded with exactly the weight applied at the saddle on them. However, at
this point in the posting you seem to be suggested the bearings see an
out-of-vertical component of force. This would be a bad thing, not
because of the magnitude of teh force, but because most ball-races don’t
like axial loads much. However, if this is the case, then it implies the
non-vertical component of force is being resisted by an axial load along
the axle, in which case there won’t be bending in the blades due to this
component.

In reality, it probably ought to be a statically indeterminate structure,
because you don’t want the bearings slopping in their housings, so there
will be a small axial load conducted through them into the axial whenever
the fork blades flex together or apart. I would expect that to be
whenever you pedal while also having weight on the saddle. However, if
the blades are adequately designed teh flex will be small, and the load
can be made sufficiently small.

If you were raking the fork blades at some incredible angle, and had
flexible forks and were concerned about it you could use cup-and-cone type
bearings, or ballraces with inclined contact points, which will take an
axial force in one direction (remebering to orientate them appropriately,
of course). However, I don’t think the fork crown would fit between your
legs, and to get the fork legs sufficiently flexible you’d probably buckle
them were you to actually sit on the saddle. I guess you could get the
same effect by hingeing the blades at the crown, but I can’t imagine why
you’d want to do that either.

regards, Ian SMith

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Re: Blades in or straight on a MUni frame around a 3.0 gazz?

My new Muni frame has been built to fit a Gazz 3.0 tyre and a Suzue
hub. So with this in mind here are my responses to yr questions:

> 1) Does the suzue hub really allow enough clearance for the fork
> blades to clear the sides of the 3.0 and then come straight down and
> meet the Suzue hub?

No. Perhaps a wider hub such as the Schwinn hub or the Poznanter hub
would help out here. From memory the Gazz 24x3.0 is 72mm wide at the
widest point. The suzue hub is about 60mm flange-to-flange.

> 2) If not, can I have the blades turned in slightly to meet the hub?

Yes

> 3) Can you have the blades slightly curve around the tire as it leaves
> the crown and then curve towards the tire and then line up with the hub
> at the bottom?

Yes, this is how my frame has turned out. It does, however, leave
quite a large gap between the tyre and the fork crown, which is not so
good for one-footed skills. another option is to have a flat crown
with angled in fork blades. I avoided this design because I thought a
curved uni-crown would be kinder to my knees!

Hope this helps
Tony Melton

Re: Blades in or straight on a MUni frame around a 3.0 gazz?

My new Muni frame has been built to fit a Gazz 3.0 tyre and a Suzue
hub. So with this in mind here are my responses to yr questions:

> 1) Does the suzue hub really allow enough clearance for the fork
> blades to clear the sides of the 3.0 and then come straight down and
> meet the Suzue hub?

No. Perhaps a wider hub such as the Schwinn hub or the Poznanter hub
would help out here. From memory the Gazz 24x3.0 is 72mm wide at the
widest point. The suzue hub is about 60mm flange-to-flange.

> 2) If not, can I have the blades turned in slightly to meet the hub?

Yes

> 3) Can you have the blades slightly curve around the tire as it leaves
> the crown and then curve towards the tire and then line up with the hub
> at the bottom?

Yes, this is how my frame has turned out. It does, however, leave
quite a large gap between the tyre and the fork crown, which is not so
good for one-footed skills. another option is to have a flat crown
with angled in fork blades. I avoided this design because I thought a
curved uni-crown would be kinder to my knees!

Hope this helps
Tony Melton

Re: Blades in or straight on a MUni frame around a 3.0 gazz?

My new Muni frame has been built to fit a Gazz 3.0 tyre and a Suzue
hub. So with this in mind here are my responses to yr questions:

> 1) Does the suzue hub really allow enough clearance for the fork
> blades to clear the sides of the 3.0 and then come straight down and
> meet the Suzue hub?

No. Perhaps a wider hub such as the Schwinn hub or the Poznanter hub
would help out here. From memory the Gazz 24x3.0 is 72mm wide at the
widest point. The suzue hub is about 60mm flange-to-flange.

> 2) If not, can I have the blades turned in slightly to meet the hub?

Yes

> 3) Can you have the blades slightly curve around the tire as it leaves
> the crown and then curve towards the tire and then line up with the hub
> at the bottom?

Yes, this is how my frame has turned out. It does, however, leave
quite a large gap between the tyre and the fork crown, which is not so
good for one-footed skills. another option is to have a flat crown
with angled in fork blades. I avoided this design because I thought a
curved uni-crown would be kinder to my knees!

Hope this helps
Tony Melton

Interested to see how your Muni turned out, could you post some pics Tony?

For one footing I’ve found that a Quick Release seat collar on the fork blades works quite well. It can be folded out of the way when not in use and you could move it down to where you want to rest your foot on the fork. I’m still working on gliding though :stuck_out_tongue:

Ken

[QUOTE]
Originally posted by teachndad
But from the pix on unicycle.com the Magura brake is a light red.

[QUOTE]

Red is just the most common but Magura sell in the HS33 in several colours. Bright Yellow, Red, Silver, Electric Blue and Matt Black. You can find more details at Magura’s site:

http://www.magura.de/english/frameset/default.htm

As there are no exposed critical parts on the brakes there is no reason why you couldn’t just sand the original paint off and paint them any colour you like.

Don’t forget to buy a service kit with Magura Blood Oil and some spare collets. You’ll need it to shorten the hose line from the lever to the master brake or you’ll end up with reams of hose wrapped around the saddle post.

Re: Blades in or straight on a MUni frame around a 3.0 gazz?

Ive got a suzue hub on my uni, and I built the frame myself. It has a 3.0"
Gazzaloddi on it, and after a couple of months giving it all I can, It hasnt
missed a beat.

I have the photos up on my website.

www.geocities.com/unicyclefrenzy

I found that the frame had to be bent inwards about 1/2" total from
perfectly parallel, but havent had a single problem with that at all.

Leo

“teachndad” <teachndad.4461b@timelimit.unicyclist.com> wrote in message
news:teachndad.4461b@timelimit.unicyclist.com
>
> Hi,
>
> 1) I looked at my suzue hub and then looked at how wide the Gazz 3.0
> tire is. Does the suzue hub really allow enough clearance for the fork
> blades to clear the sides of the 3.0 and then come straight down and
> meet the Suzue hub?
>
> 2) If not, can I have the blades turned in slightly to meet the hub?
> Does this create any strength or flex issues? This assumes the crown is
> wider than the hub. Trying to understand this stuff…
>
> Heres a really weird question:
> 3) Can you have the blades slightly curve around the tire as it leaves
> the crown and then curve towards the tire and then line up with the hub
> at the bottom? Was that clear…?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> workin the maze.
>
>
> –
> teachndad - The Munieer
>
> Rod Wylie
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> teachndad’s Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/56
> View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/17882
>

Tony,

Yeah, piks would be nice. Also, I am using the suzue hub to save money. It is on the wheel that I currently have so I thought I could still use it since it is still in fine shape.

work the maze.

Well, if I read correctly you haven’t gotten a Suzue hub yet. It is very hard to build something when you do not have all the components. I am not saying it is impssible, I do it all the time, but If you do not know how wide something is how can you make a part to fit? Anyways, I have also built a frame using the Suzue. The Gazz is NOT wider than the Suzue. I cannot remember exactly how much clearance there is but you do need more. I offset my tubes 2.2 mm at the bearing holders and welded them on an angle at the crown. It amounted to 0.100"at the crown-3.5" inside to inside of the tubes. I made a dummy hub to weld everything together so that the bearing caps are parallel to the bearings and not on an angle. 0.001 over 12" is less than 1/2 of one degree. It is barely noticeable by eye. Again, even though I welded my tubes on an angle, I made sure that the bearing caps are not on an angle. I will post pics as soon as I get film for my polaroid. I chose most of my designs because of there simplicity and not to be the next guy to reinvent the uni. I must admit I wanted to be unique but time restraints were hard to overcome. I am currently working on a seat post a handle and a rear bumper for my carbon fiber seat base. I think I will settle on black as the color because it is easy (did I say time constraints, I meant laziness).

I’ll post soon, Wayne.

Oops, you do have a hub. I read all the posts then made mine without going back to the top. Anyways, I guess you did not measure it.

Wayne.