Big muni upgrade - some questions...

Frame colours…

Hahaha, some of you older forum users will remember a similar barrage of ‘urgent’ questions a little over a year ago…

See this website -

At the moment I’m thinking of these colours (labelled on the site)…I hope my monitor is set similarly to yours. :slight_smile:

RAL 9016 Traffic White
RAL 9017 Traffic Black
RAL 2008 Bright Red Orange

Also, some other possibilities…
RAL 5003 Sapphire Blue - Beautiful colour but the KH’s are blue.
RAL 1003 Signal Yellow - Very similar to my old custom frame colour which I loved.
RAL 7032 Pebble Grey - Maybe not quite what I was looking for, but an earthy yet light brown.
RAL 6002 Leaf Green / RAL 5021 Turquoise Blue - Somewhere between the two…a bluey green.

What are your thoughts?


Edit - Picture the blue Odyssey JC’s above with these colour choices.

there is no cross section pic on that site that i can find just a pic of the outside of the rim. those are not machiened side walls either after seeing the shot that i did find, i wouldnt ride that rim if i were to have a brake.

Small pictures of the rims cross-section can be seen at:

You need to mouse-over the thumbnail image if the rim.



ok thanx, yeah thats a pretty standard cross-section style available on lots of rims.

But it’s wider.

Here’s my 2c Andrew:

Don’t bother with the braided magura housing - not necessary.
Jim C pedals are great!
Avoid 22.2mm seatposts if at all possible - get a 25.4 or even better a 27.2mm post. Getting good quality seatposts in 22.2mm diameter is a b*tch!
Make sure the frame can accept a Gazz if you decide to return the the fold after your lark with yr Duro.

I had a chat to Gary who told me that the braided stuff isn’t necessary for the braking done in muni. I’ve dropped that expense.

I’m pretty sure I’m getting the Jim C’s. Have you tried them?

I’ve been running a 22.2mm seatpost on my muni for almost 2 years now with no bending…is that what you’re worried about? The reason I run a 22.2 is bar ends are easier to find in that diameter and the bar end I’m currently running fits perfectly and is a great shape. What do you think?

The frame will offer most likely about 12mm clearance minimum either side of a Gazz. :slight_smile: When you came riding with me in Brisbane weren’t you running a Duro? If so, how was it? If not, what was it? I’m still not sure which tyre to go for. I can get both a Duro and a Gazz quite cheap.


Yes, I have Jim C pedals on both my Muni and trials unicycles and I they’re the best uni pedals I’ve ever owned.

My reasons for suggesting a 25.4 or 27.2mm seatpost were based on my experiences with my custom unis with 22.2mm posts. 22.2mm is fine for a trials uni, but if you ever want to upgrade to using a rail adapter, then you’ll run into problems. I highly recommend using a rail adapter and bike seatpost. They make your saddle soooo much more comfortable coz you can change the angle it sits at. There are very few good quality, lightweight 22.2mm bike seatposts around (in fact FMF is the only one I know of.) Because you’re getting yr frame custom made it will not be difficult to get your framebuilder to make you a brake mount to fit the larger diameter seatpost, or adapt your existing barend. (My framebuilder built me a custom brake mount at the same time as the frame was built -see a pic here)

I had a Duro at the UNiNats. Gary gave me a Gazz as a prize for winning the Muni race (thanks Gary! :sunglasses: ) so I might have been riding that in Brisbane. The Duro is a good tyre, but I thought the Gazz was better, after switching between them.


You’re definitely the man I should be talking to. Thanks for the comments on the Jim C’s…that’s good to hear.

I’ve always found that the standard seat angles on the KH’s (and others) suit me fine and the few adjustable seats I’ve tried didn’t suit me…plus there’s more added weight. So the only reason I would get a larger diameter seatpost and frame neck is for strength. So my rebuttal (:))is that I have never seen a frame neck bend and the only bends I have seen have been on 22.2mm seatposts, granted, but at the top - near or at the weld. I would much rather try it out as a 22.2mm (I have never had one break, maybe because i’m light?) and if the seatpost bends, get a new one and add a small bit of bracing at the top. That way I wouldn’t have that extra thing to worry about in making sure the new bar end is made properly, etc, etc. What do you think? Remember that the neck of my frame is going to be about 300mm long (almost).

Yes, now that I know it was a Duro you had at UniNats, you were riding it here in Brisbane. Did you feel that the Gazz was noticably heavier? I’m trying to be a mass-conscious as possible here.

Do you know how much a phone call between Australia and NZ would be? Would it be much more expensive mobile to mobile? I’d like to talk to you about all these things and just catch up since you didn’t make it to Woodford. I was also wondering if you stock those Magura brake bosses that you weld onto the frame and they give the brakes two solid connection points rather than one (standard bike boss) and little bit pushing against but not connected to the inside of the frame? I have too much flex in my brakes at the moment.

This thing’s going to be a beast…a beautiful beast!


Frame colours…

I played around with an old image I had of my old muni setup today. I think it’s really helped to give me a rough idea of how it might look. Below is one of my favourite colour options. The pedals will be roughly that blue colour, the seat will be a KH Fusion (black), and the frame will be white but will also come up much higher (about 300mm) at the neck. What do you think? Yes, I know it will highlight dirt, mud, and scratches but I consider that a pro rather than a con.


Well in that case what I’d do is to get the frame’s neck made with an internal diameter of 25.4mm or 27.2mm and get a shim welded in to take it down to 22.2mm. This way you won’t limit your future seatposts to only one size. You’d really want the shim welded in place otherwise it will be hard to clamp your seat tight enough to stop it twisting. I believe shims can be removed even if welded in place - at least that’s what my framebuilder said to me.

I agree that its very rare that a frame gets bent. But I have bent and broken many 22.2mm seatposts. Many times I’ve had local engineers cut off a bent post and weld a BMX ‘candlewick’ post onto a base-plate. BMX candlewicks are much stronger than standard uni seatposts which are made by rolling a rectangle of metal into a cylinder then welding it together (welded seam). You’re lucky not to have bent one so far! An average quality alloy bike seatpost will be much stronger than the standard unicycle seatpost and probably stronger than a beefed up one as I’ve described above.

The Gazz is a heavier tyre, but changing to it from the Duro didn’t feel like I was adding lead weights to my wheel. Even though its heavier I like the feel of the Gazz better and to me its worth sacrificing some weight for a nicer ride. Have you considered the Kujo DH 24x3" tyre? Its about 500g (or more) lighter than the Gazz. I have one of these but haven’t ridden it yet.

As it happens I’ve also been looking for a set of those 2-point Magura brake clamps. I know of a source in NZ. I could order 2 sets (as if I were a bike customer!) at the same time if you’re keen… Don’t know what the price would be without enquiring first.

I’ll send you my phone number in a PM.

This shim idea is an interesting one. How long would it be (surely the length of the seatpost in the frame neck)? Where is the weld?

I know what I’ll do…I’ll buy a 3" Duro or something similar, and if I don’t like it I’ll get a new Gazz and sell the Duro. I still have a bit of life left in my current Gazz too, but I don’t want an old tyre on an otherwise new muni! :slight_smile: What’s the tread pattern and profile like on the Kujo DH? I’ll have a look.

Yes, please order me a set of those bosses/brake mounts when you order yours…thanks a lot. Just so we’re sure we’re talking about the same thing, can you describe them to me and their purpose. Just checking.


The shim only needs to be a little longer than the slot in the frame. This is enough to clamp the seatpost tightly. The one in my Muni is about 5 or 6cm long. The weld is between the shim and the inside of the neck.

You could ask Max Dingemans about the IRC Kujo - he used to ride one.

Here’s a pic of the Magura parts I’m referring to:


Yep, they’re the parts I’m thinking of too. That shim idea might be the go (it’s what I’m running on my current frame), but I do prefer the look and feel of the smaller diameter neck and seatpost so I have a big decision to make. If thre’s a real risk of a 22.2 ID neck bending, I’ll run a shim on a bigger neck, if not I’ll most likely go 22.2mm. I mean worst case scenario would be that I’d have to chop off the neck and put a bigger one on and then get it re-powder coated.


Ideally the shim should be at least as long as the minimum insertion length for the seatpost.

But the minimum insertion length changes depending on how much of the seatpost is sticking up above the frame. Since you are only exposing a very little bit of the seatpost above the frame, the minimum insertion length is going to be less than what is marked on the seatpost.

Something else to be aware of. It sounds like you’re planning on clamping the seatpost very close to the top of the seatpost. Some seatposts get a little bit fatter up there right next to where the saddle mounts. I’ve noticed that fattening on some BMX seatposts like the Primo Rod. I think the welding may distort the metal a bit causing the diameter to get a bit bigger.

I noticed the seatpost problem with my GB4 Coker when I put 170 mm cranks on. With the 170’s I have to lower the saddle to just above the top of the frame. I was using a 25.4 mm Primo Rod seatpost and it wouldn’t go down low enough because the diameter of the seatpost got slightly bigger right next to the saddle mount (the seat guts). I had to switch to a different seatpost. I found an alloy 25.4 mm seatpost that works.

Thanks John, I’ll have to check that.