Big muni upgrade - some questions...

[If you don’t care about my muni plans, or don’t want to read too much, continue to the questions below]

I finally have a bit of money set aside to spend on my muni which is good because it’s really not running very well.

Current Muni

  • Old GP Unicycles prototype frame
  • Profile hub and 145mm cranks
  • Kona Jackshit pedals
  • Alex DX-32 rim
  • 24x3" Gazz
  • Magura HS-33 brake
  • KH seat

Problems

  • Frame - nice, but too heavy and not enough clearance either side of a Gazz…and not custom.
  • Cranks - 145mm is far too short for the type of riding I’m getting into.
  • Pedals - Spindles always bend eventually, and bearings are playing up.
  • Rim - Had to be dished to one side to fit in the frame, is also generally getting old, is too weak.
  • Tyre - Beautiful, but getting worn and is also heavy, and it doesn’t sit in it’s bead right.
  • Brake - I don’t have the proper Magura bosses that attach in two places, crossover cable is too short.
  • Seat - starting to rip through base plate.

Future Muni

  • Custom frame - Very similar to my fisrt custom frame (now owned by a friend) but with minimum of 10mm (probably more) clearance either side of a 3" Gazz, no extra grippy bits of one footed skills, approximately 250mm long neck to put the seatpost clamp right up high. It will run a 22.2mm seatpost because I have a bar end to mount the brake lever on for that size and the neck will be long so no worries about strength. Tubing will be ovalised at about 30x10mm, bearing holders will be machined. Proper Magura brake bosses will be welded on. Colour will be a powder-coated white!
  • 160mm Profile cranks - I’ve ridden 152’s on a really light 24" muni wheel and it felt great, so 160mm on a chunky 24" wheel should be perfect for me. I will still have a bit of clearance above all the ruts, roots, and rocks of Mt Cootha.
  • Really strong pedals - I’m thinking Odyssey Jim Cielencki’s because they sound strong and reliable and that beautiful blue colour would go great with either a white or nice orange (second preferance) frame. Any thoughts? I also looked at DMR V12’s and rode with some yesterday. They feel nice and are apparently strong.
  • KH Freeride rim - I love the sound of that lateral bracing of a muni-specific rim! Slightly heavier than a DX-32 but well worth it I’m hoping and I’m possibly running a lighter tyre.
  • 24x3" Duro - This is what I’m considering anyway. I love my Gazz, but I also love a light wheel, and this is apparently noticably lighter.
  • Proper Magura brake bosses, and braided hydraulic cable not just for the cross-over cable but all of it.
  • KH seat - It hasn’t broken yet, and it’s very comfortable…although I was considering getting the GB4 stiffened Miyata.

Questions

  • If I want to change the colour of my frame at some stage is it easy and cheap to remove the existing coat of paint?
  • How does the 24x3" Duro perform in terms of folding on drops and also hopping on off-camber surfaces?
  • Which pedal (Jim Cielencki, V12, Snafu) has the strongest spindle? Any others? (the pedals always go first on my unis)
  • Anyone have any pics of white muni frames? I’d like to see roughly how it will turn out. Otherwise, I may go for a nice orange.

Thanks a lot,
Andrew

I’m chuckling to myself seeing no responses! I think you know as much if not more than anybody here…

Save up even more money (better yet show some potential sponsor your video footage, it’s spectacular), and get all the variations you mentioned and do an open study for the unicycling world to see…we’d all benefit, and you’d have one heck of a fun time.

Sincerely,

Bob

Here is one white Uni. It´s from SWAT (i found it on their website):

Removing paint from metal is quite easy, especially with a sand blaster. For a blasting medium, stay away from the aluminum oxide, go for either sand, walnut shell, or glass bead. Glass bead is the best if you can get it. If you don’t have access to one, try an electric or pnumatic orbital sander. The sand paper should be a medium grit. You could even try a chemical stripper, but I don’t like those.

Removing powdercoat is quite a bit harder, as it adheres better to metal and is tougher. I’ve never tried removing it with anything but a sand blaster. It is really tough even with a sand blaster. For example, I once sandblasted an onza frame, which came powdercoated matte black, to be powdercoated again. It took a good hour or so to sandblast the entire frame to bare metal. This was surprising, as when I sand blasted a chromed frame to bare metal (it was a Yuni frame), it only took a little more than 15 or 20 minutes. The finished products can be seen here (onza) and here (yuni)

Well, I know that the Jim Cielencki pedals have a chromoly spindle and aluminum body, which is nice and strong. I don’t know about Snafu or anything else.

Ah, the ghost…It’s fun :smiley:

Ive tried duros several times on varying terrain. I still like my gazz a whole lot more. The gazz feelings springier on hops, more cushioning on drops, and -you guessed it- better grip on off camber surfaces.

I would prefer to skimp in the paint department and put that money towards a gazz if need be.

Maybe someone has ridden alot on both and could give us a more experienced opinion.

That looks like a killer muni you’re cooking up. Good luck and enjoy the process. :smiley:

Also, if you do end up powdercoating it, I wouldn’t go for white. The reason is that it looks nice for a few weeks, but then it gets very dirty and scratches are very noticable in it. Plus you’ll get black rubber marks in it from your shoes during UPDs. At least that is what has happened to the ghost.

Then again, it is a muni, so it would look good dirty. :stuck_out_tongue:

Re: Big muni upgrade - some questions…

Yes, but I dug around and nothing’s scanned. In 1985 you could order your first-year Semcycle in either chrome or white baked enamel. The white ones were sweet, because it was such an unusual color.

As somebody else mentioned, white will look really cool for starters, but it will show all the dirt, scratches, scuffs, rust very vividly. While the dirt and scuffs can be washed off, you’re stuck with the scratches, chips, dings until you refinish it.

But that’s okay. The thing is made to be used, right?

Back to the Semcycles. I think the white option was only around for the first year. Same problem, once they got scratched up, which is inevitable for any frame, they looked worse than the equivalent amount of wear & tear on a chrome frame. I don’t know how durable baked enamel is compared to powdercoat, but in terms of being scratched it probably doesn’t matter much. The problem is contrast of colors.

So though it hasn’t worked for a production unicycle, no reason you can’t do it and stand out with your custom one.

Re: Big muni upgrade - some questions…

  • Custom frame - Very similar to my fisrt custom frame (now owned by a friend) but with minimum of 10mm (probably more) clearance either side of a 3" Gazz

>>> The Nimbus frame has that type of clearance. I rode through a mile of mud yesterday with an untrue Gazz. The Nimbus also has easy access for threading a cyclometer.

  • Really strong pedals - I’m thinking Odyssey Jim Cielencki’s because they sound strong and reliable and that beautiful blue colour would go great with either a white or nice orange (second preferance) frame. Any thoughts?

>>> Cheap Snafu`s ($30) are lighter than JC pedals and plenty durable. They also have more grip. The down side is that the pins can come lose (but you can check the pins and tighten them with a screwdriver).

  • KH Freeride rim - I love the sound of that lateral bracing of a muni-specific rim! Slightly heavier than a DX-32 but well worth it I’m hoping and I’m possibly running a lighter tyre.

The alex rim is very common, easy to aquire and is somewhat cheap to replace.

  • 24x3" Duro - This is what I’m considering anyway. I love my Gazz, but I also love a light wheel, and this is apparently noticably lighter.

I agree. I have ridden the Gazz and the Duro quite a bit. When my current Gazz wears out, I will go to the Duro. It is a subjective thing: I like how the duro responds better and the Gazz seems to have some unique problem in wet terrain. Moreover, I feel comfortable riding a $20 tire over pavement (I like mixed riding) rather than a $60-$70 one. I can wear out a tire every month (or more).

  • KH seat - It hasn’t broken yet, and it’s very comfortable…although I was considering getting the GB4 stiffened Miyata.

I am in love with my GB4 stiffened Torker frame (I do not think the Miyata is available - at least it wasnt when I was buying). Its cheap, modular and has flawless performance. I currently run it as a airseat, but it can work with KH foam as well.

  • How does the 24x3" Duro perform in terms of folding on drops and also hopping on off-camber surfaces?

I think the Duro feels better laterally (even though the Gazz has the sidewall thing goin on). It also feels better with higher pressure. At very low pressure the Gazz works out better. Id rather have a Gazz for serious drops and extremely rough (dry) terrain. I would rather have a Duro for everything else. The Duro also seems to benefit more from changing air pressure. (Simply lower the pressure for rough terrain and drops to get a more Gazz-like feel). The Gazz is clearly more cushy, but the Duro responds more quickly (which is what I like - dealing with an obsticle at the time I reach it rather than a 1/2 second later).

Bob,
Wouldn’t it be fun to be rich!

Smilymarco,
Thanks, exactly what I was looking for.

digitalattrition,
Thanks, I was actually thinking that dirt, mud, and scratches on white would look great. I’m not one of those people who like to keep a muni spotless…I like it spotful. :slight_smile:

mango,
I will keep everyone informed about the progress. You know me…I post about everything that goes on in my unicycling life here! :wink:

John,
Thanks for the interesting info, and see above about the scratches, etc.

Drew,
I’m going for a custom frame not to save money or anything but because I like having a frame the nobody else has. I’ll look into those Snafu’s a little more now, thanks. I believe Tony Melton runs Snafus on his trials uni which I have ridden and they felt great and looked solid and reliable. I currently have an Alex rim, but I’d like something stronger and I’m also just really excited about this KH Freeride rim. I meant to say I was considering getting the old GB4 stiffened Miyata seat out, meaning I have one sitting here at home with the dreaded spinning bolt problem and don’t have the tools to fix it so I’ll have to take it to a friend’s house and get it running again. That’s interesting about the Duro’s responsiveness. Here in Brisbane, Australia the trails are very dry with heaps of ruts, rocks, and roots. I think the responsiveness you mention would come in very handy down some of the steep rocky decsents I’ve come across. I’m also doing all of my bigger drops (above 5’) on the trials uni, so I think the Duro might be the go. As you said, it’s only a cheap tyre so it’s not a huge drama if it doesn’t suit. The little bit of money wasted (if it is wasted) would just blend into all the money I’m spending on this fancy new setup. :slight_smile:

Thanks for your help guys.

Andrew

Ask Joey Cohn for a pic of his uni after cmw 04 to get an idea of what you will have. He had a yuni frame with bosses powdercoated white before the weekend. It was beautiful, but the powdercoating on the outside tops of the legs had disappeared in the 3 days of riding.

If you’d like to know, I have cracked the back half of my left snafu pedal. I think it was on the flight to NYC, since I read that it was -71 F outside, and if the luggage bay wasn’t heated the thermal contraction of the metal may have caused it to crack. I would go with the jim c’s myself, or the azonic a-frames. Not wellgos.

i wonder about this “lateral Bracing” thing about KH rims…every possible rim has been done already in the bikeing world…is there somthing really differant about the kh’s? is there a rim section pic out there?

the KH rim doesnt appear to have a machiened side wall either.

Check out www.krisholm.com for a cross-section.

Andrew

Update…

For months now I’ve been hearing people talk about the KH Fusion saddle and never looked into it, assuming it wouldn’t be all that different to my existing KH saddle. I just had a browse through www.krisholm.com and I now want one! I love the removable cover and more durable baseplate and cover material. Are they heavier than the 2003 KH saddles?

Which leads to my next thought…the Fusion saddle is completely black. I am also now considering a few more colour combinations including completely black.

…this is going to be soo expensive!

Andrew

powder coating is almost impossible to strip off and change color, not to mention expensive, white shows, blah blah its been covered.

I really like the snafu pedals. I also love my gazz. i only have the 2.6 and for everything but the biggest drops/bumps and the muddiest conditions if works well. Might be something to look into. for a saddle i really like my air seat with a GB4 seatpost and reeder handle. Haven’t even see (in person) the new KH saddles, so i can’t comment. all i can say is you’d better have tons of pics when you get with this.

Just out of curiosity, what’s a custom frame run you?

Re: Big muni upgrade - some questions…

On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 10:52:29 -0600, “digitalattrition” wrote:

>For a blasting medium, stay away from the aluminum oxide, go for either
>sand, walnut shell, or glass bead.

WARNING! When blasting with sand yourself, don’t inhale the dust. In
the Netherlands, professional sandblasting has to be done in a fully
closed cabinet (with “inverted gloves” to handle stuff) with air
suction. Sand dust in your lungs is known to cause silicose, which is
a serious and potentially fatal condition.

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict

It’s impossible to get old when you ride a unicycle - John (what’s in a name) Childs

Pedals:

Consider the 2005 Specialized Lo Pro Magnesium pedals if you can get them in Australia for a reasonable price. They are a bit spendy at around $83 here in the USA. They’re supposed to be really good pedals with a strong spindle. I haven’t tried them yet.

Or if you want something cheaper go with the Jim Cielencki’s with long pins. You don’t want pedals that you can’t afford to abuse.

Seatpost:

If you use a 22.2 mm seatpost you will need to custom make one that is stronger than the standard seatposts. Otherwise it will end up looking like daino149’s avatar. The weld area is vulnerable on that style of seatpost and will need to be beefed up.

22.2 mm seatposts are also harder to keep from slipping in the frame. The smaller diameter means there is less surface area to clamp. A larger diameter seatpost will have more surface area and can clamp tighter as long as you use a good seatpost clamp and the seatpost fits properly in the frame.

A standard bicycle seatpost size like 25.4 mm or 27.2 mm will allow you to use a high quality alloy bike seatpost (Thomson) along with a rail adapter to set the seat angle. It works well as long as the rail adapter is built strong enough to take the abuse. Weak welds on the rail adapter can crack.

Brake lever mount:

Consider using the style of brake lever mount that municycle.com has: Brake lever mount for KH saddles. No need to attach a bar end to the seatpost. Scott Wallis also uses a similar brake lever mount for his ultra-custom seats: Scott Wallis handle and brake lever mount. I can see a lot of advantages for that style of brake lever mount compared to the other options.

Mark,
Don’t worry, I’ll take heaps of photos! It’s going to be absolutely beautiful.

PopeSamXVI,
Well I just picked up some free machined bearing holders, so the rest of the frame will cost about $230. Last frame I designed and had made cost $232 without the bearing holders. Quite reasonable really. I just tallied up how much this baby is going to cost me and I’m looking at about $800 with discounts and mate’s rates…WOW!

Andrew

Update…

I just picked up a set of free machined bearing holders for my custom frame. The pair of them weigh 330g. I’m hoping to keep this frame under 1kg, like my first custom frame (which was 900g).

I remember being worried about how heavy the bearing holders were last time and it turned out that they made up about a third of the weight of the frame, so this one should turn out fine. I think my muni weighed about 6.5kg back in the day and I’m aiming for around that weight this time.

Andrew

Update…

I’m pretty sure I’m going for the Odyssey Jim Cielencki pedals at about $140 AUD retail. I love the shape, the colour (blue), the sealed bearings, and the way that the pins are pushed through from the other side so you don’t mash them up.

Bearing holders, sourced parts…yippee, I’m one step closer!

Andrew