Bicycle Euro cranks

Does anyone use bicycle Euro cranks? If so, what do you think. I need to buy new cranks for my muni and is sold out of the doteks indef. Any horror stories like with the cheap laskos? The cranks im replacing are 170mm doteks that are shot to hell from a year of unicycling… they served me well…

Noooo! Don’t do it! They bend unbelievably easy! Ok for just rding around I guess, but any medium drops and hopping just thrashes them! Get something stronger! Maybe Monty ones? I dunno- but steer clear of the Bike Euro ones for Muni!

thanks. does monty make 170mm Muni cranks?

Au contraire…

I’ve only recently started using anything but BE cranks due to upgrading to a splined hub. The BE cranks survived a lot of trials and muni abuse without bending.

The only times I ever bent them was when something went hideously wrong, such as landing large drops without rolling out or something. They survived 4 foot drops to flat concrete on numerous occasions without bending.

And for only a tenner (GBP) a pair, you can easily afford a set or two spares, maybe with a few different lengths to experiment with. I’d rather have a cheap, easily replaceable crank bend than an expensive, difficult to replace hub, because if that’s where any exces force is going to go if the cranks don’t take it first.

I found the main downside with them is the fear of bending them rather than actually doing it, but no non-splined crankset is going to change that.

There have been a few posts on the forum by people who have bought really expensive square-tapered cranks only to have them bend without much more effort than BEs; they just aren’t worth it.


Bicycle Euro cranks are good. They hold up pretty well. They’re solid steel cranks so they are heavy.

The Kooka cranks are really good and very strong. They’re aluminum so they’re much lighter than the Bicycle Euro cranks. But they’re also very expensive at $109.

The third option is to order tandem cranks from your local bike shop. The right crank for the captain (front rider) does not have a spider on the right-hand side. So you get the right crank from the captain’s set of cranks and the left crank from a normal bike set of cranks and you have a perfect pair of cranks for a unicycle.

Your local bike shop should be able to order the cranks individually. I think the tandem cranks are listed that way in the Quality Bicycle Products (QBP) catalog that most bike shops order from.

I used Sugino tandem cranks on my Pashley muni. They worked well. They’re forged cranks. Good quality. I never bent them but I wasn’t doing big drops at the time. They’re not as strong as the Kooka’s, but they aren’t $109 either.

Alfred E. Bike has the QBP catalog online.
Right Sugino captain’s crank
Left Sugino crank
It will be $28.98 + shipping & handling for the cranks. Not bad.

Go with either the Bicycle Euro’s or the Sugino tandem cranks. Depends on if you want steel or aluminum. The advantage with steel is that it will actually bend rather than break in half. Aluminum doesn’t bend, it just snaps in half when it decides to break. Steel is heavy, aluminum is light.

thanks thats pretty helpful of you. now all i have to do is decide lol. i think ill go with the steel b*ke euros. id rather soemthing bend then break when half of my weight is on it and the fate of my posterity is under its control.

thanks again. by the way…i cant seem to get a hold of your evil twin john childs from philly. idk why youd care. it just seems like theres something fishy goin on here…like a conspiracy to over throw the government…

i need a hobby. well…another hobby

Now I just sound overweight damnit!

You could have said that you were just too hardcore for them instead… you only said they’ll bend on “medium” drops, you didn’t say what you consider “medium” to be… :slight_smile:


i bent my BEs after 1 weekend of muni (the NJ muni weekend)

now im just confused. what shall i do? hmmmmm… i think its about time to upgrade to splined hubs…