I was wondering what is recomended to be the best trials rim. Lighter is better, but i don’t want to sacrafice too much stength. I only weigh about 100 lbs… if that means anything. Thanks for the imput.
go for either a KH or an alex rim. Tryall is good too.
which ones… each company has a couple rims don’t they… like kh drilled and non drilled?
try-all has a drilled and an undrilled model. KH only comes in drilled. I personaly would(and did) choose a drilled over a non drilled, the weight diff. is only 100g betwen the drilled and non drilled try-all.
im using a VIZ rim and its fantastic.
when shopping for weight…should i go by the manufaturers website and specs or the distributer,dealers web site and specs
idk weight isnt that big of a deal for me so i just kinda galce quckly ate weights. i would say the distibuters though, because they’re less biased
while i’m on the subject of my new wheel set… what is a good crank length for a 5’2" (and growing) street and trials rider?
i ride my 137 Koxx Street cranks, and like them alot. i would go with anything between 125 and 140
What is the weight differance between qu-ax splined yellow hub and crank set and the KH moment. is KH lighter?
way lighter!!! like a few pounds ithink
i’d ask about k1 but i think the 0 q-factor would kill my ankles.
i have k1 street cranks and the nubs suck, but my friend rides the trials cranks and they arnt bad at all
do the trials still have a 0 q-factor?
I was talking to Cody at Moab(I think that was his name) and he’s sponsored by koxx and loves the unis but hates tryall rims. But then again he’s probably harder on them than you would be.
The Alex DX-32 is known to be one of the strongest rims out there. It totally rocks but it might be a little heavier as it is not drilled.
Can’t say I know much about the KH, except that they’re said to be good.
weighing 100 lbs means a lot
You should have no trouble with any good rim. They were designed for a 150 lb. rider in mind. So choose light and cheap. 
Ok, I want to clear some things up.
It is almost a golden rule to avoid rims with brakeline indicators (slit across the sidewall) for example: Viz, old-KH pre-2005, just to name a couple. This is because sidewalls collapse easier and that brakeline looks horrible and is of no benefit to trials unis.
Then we move onto factors like drilled/undrilled and eyeletted/uneyeletted.
I’d avoid getting a drilled rim personally, because before you even go on to flatspotting the rim, you’ll probably first snap off the tiny joints of metal between the huge drilled holes and the spoke holes. (Check the part of the rim that touches against the rimtape if you’re unclear of what I mean).
Undrilled rims are what, 100g (or even less?) heavier than drilled rims, and they are really a lot stronger if they have a quality design.
Regarding eyelets, yes, they do add a bit of weight as they are essentially steel rings pressed into the spoke holes, but they are really beneficial because uneyeletted rims sometimes have stress-risers forming around the spoke hole area. Not good news. Therefore, eyelets are a plus.
A really important factor too: Width.
Especially if you’re a trials rider, you want good width. Wide rims aid in balance, it is a proven theory and turned into fact. Just ask any good biketrials rider who knows what they are talking about and they WILL tell you that wider rims are more preferable. Wider rims also give the tyres a squarer profile and make them appear ‘fatter’, but this is partly what adds the balance benefits.
With all that being said, there are 2 major rim manufacturers for trials rims:
Jetset and Alex, I think. (those are the two off the top of my head).
^
Jetset make: Onza, Try-All, Kris Holm, Viz, Monty, Echo, Zhi, and so on.
Alex make: DX32.
The Jetset design is common, very common, and pretty neat infact. In my opinion, the current best rim out there is the Try-All undrilled ‘street’ rim: the ones that come on the Orange Bud and DH Pro Street unis. They have the strength benefits of being undrilled and eyeletted as well as having a nice width at 47 or 48mm or so. To top that off, they are made of 7000 series aluminium, which is another plus for rims over 6000 series alu.
Try-All undrilled (47mm wide)… a tad pricey, but it is worth it in my opinion. If you are a street rider that doesn’t really do trialsy stuff like balancing then width isn’t too crucial so a KH2005 rim or Nimbus rim’d do fine (they are 42mm wide).
Hope this helped
Thanks for all that sponge. The only reason that I think I’ll go with a drilled is because the weight savings and I only weigh 100 lbs so i don’t think i’ll be that hard on rims. What about KH 07. It seems to be the best of both world… 47mm width, eyeleted but yet drilled to save weight.
Make sure to regularly check tension on the KH 07 rim, and try to be smooth (rollout) on your landings and it should hold up really well. A few have been broken already, though they were missing a spoke, or not maintained properly.
Kris and Ryan both use the 07 rim, maintain it, and do some of the bigger muni and trials riding, holds up fine for them. I also have it and havent had a problem, and hope I never do.
about how much do the people that broke them weigh… and do you think that a 100 lb rider could do serious damage?