Guys dont forget about The profile trials unis from back in the day. Those were around even before the summits and are still killer even by todays standards.
true dat
Actually I understand the Kh/Onza hub is lighter, so the best would be the Kh hub and Try-All rim built together.
Dan Heaton had and now Zack has a really nice titanium frame, I’d say its probably one of the best trials built machines around the way zack has it set up.
The frame that Semper Uni (Mike P.) made out of welded sheet aluminum that Ryan Atkins and Jeff Groves had were also up there in the cool factor. They were both really light and well designed.
I don’t think there is a best trials uni universally. All of the stock unis have woeful inadaquacies that at least for me mkae them seem kinda crappy. I can see why the inadaquacies are there, but they just aren’t acceptable to me.
If we’re talking custom, I think for the rider who doesn’t break everything left and right:
KH wheel
Semper_uni’s frame
Thomson seatpost
SW seatbase
KH, kinport, or maybe literider handle.
The deathgrip handles are rather poor trials/street handles because they aren’t ambidextrous. They’re excellent if you use one hand exclusively, thought.
For a lighter duty rider:
KH hub
try-all rim
SW seatbase
lightest seatpost available
the rest is the same as above
The Koxx crank design is an awful choice for trials because it’s aluminum. Pedalgrabs will chew it to pieces. The ideal crank for trials is a chromed steel crank, such as chrome profiles. Chrome is amazingly tough, and will be the best protector of the base metal.
I’ll gladly trade mine for a KH05
I break stuff, so I have a similar setup, with a little more durability in the frame and cranks…
Profile/DX32 Wheel
KH '04 (Steel) Frame
Thomson
CF miyata saddle, deathgrip handle
I use one hand exclusively…
The uni weighs in at 13.2 lbs so it is not the lightest but it isn’t particularly heavy and the steel frame and cranks will never break.
Yeha, Kev, i like your setup. I didn’t bother to mention a uni for those who break unk left and right, because, well, by the time you reach that level you already know what you need.
I have almost the exact uni I listed first except I have my machined al. frame (heavy, very heavy) and a try-all rim, along with a SH profile hub (slightly lighter than regular profile). My trials uni is around 12-13lbs, last I checked.
it might take a few thousand pedal grabs to grind the cranks to death, regarding the amount of solid aluminium involved in their making.
Maybe if you practice barb-wire grinding you might kill your cranks within a few hundred tries;)
I was waiting for that, there’s nothing wrong with the koxx cranks as far as trials goes, but I don’t think there’s enough Q-factor on them to make them good for street. I couldn’t see myself learning to unispin on a koxx, the landing spots are too small… But then I have got pretty big feet.
Loose.
The only down fall of titanium fram is even though it is crazy light an strong, it is brittle, not like so brittle you drop it from head level and it brakes but with a good amout of force it will crack or even break.
I don’t know where you got this. I’ve always known titanium to be very ductile and flexible. Yes, if welded badly, the welds can crack, but that’s true of almost all materials.
As for the Koxx cranks… I have done a few thousand pedalgrabs, and severely worn a profile black crank (over the course of only ~30 rides), and worn through about half of an onza (KH) crank. I had monty cranks on my first muni, and the first 5 pedalgrabs has left noticable gouges in the metal. I’ve done pedalgrabs onto rocks that would take 1/8" gouges in aluminum cranks, hence my reluctance to use them for trials.
will crank grabs damage the crank enough that it becomes weakened? i only crank grab on wood
Most street riders would say that straight cranks are better for street…
No, wood won’t damage any crank material, unless you are foolish and unlucky enough to be crankgrabbing lignum vida (the stuff is harder and sronger than aluminum). Of course you could get some gouge action if you hit some nails, but creative carpentry will fix this.
The moves that I find damage cranks the most are pedalgaps onto either corners or rocky outcroppings. Those just mash the pedal and crank. I wouldn’t want to deal with that on aluminum cranks.
Why are profile hub and cranksets not commonly being listed as part of the custom trials unis mentioned here? are they too heavy?
The koxx cranks are awsome! I have been crank grabbing and grinding on them for about 5 months, the paints come off i bit and less than a third of a milimeter of aluminium has worn away, it just goes smooth. No Qfactor is awsome for street, its smooth and fast. And loose, i learnt to unispin pretty easily on them.
the kh cranks are great becoz of the flat round surface, it is easier to balance ur foot on the whole crank and pedal and all that! The bad thing with the kh frame is that the crown doesnt have a great amount of room for freestyle manouvers that require the crown, but u get used to the small amount of foot area!
wot? 
ahaha yeah i was comparing them to the koxx cranks, they r oval shaped, where as the kh cranks are more tubular and flatter on the tops!
soz bout the poor typing lol